|
700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
Information |
|
Engine cut out and Lambda sensorViews : 2582 Replies : 35Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Dec 23rd, 2021, 20:49 | #21 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:56
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
1. Fuses #11 and/or #13 as listed in my previous post. 2. Faulty CPS 3. Faulty ignition amp module. On the Mk2 940s (96-on) the coil is fed by one of the fuel pump fuses (can't remember which, had my Kung Flu booster 2 days ago and still have a headache/blurry vision from it so can't delve into the diagram to confirm which fuse but i know one of them) and you're losing ignition coil output. Two possible reasons for this, either the igntion amp module is shot or the power feed or signal to it is lost. Assuming the CPS is ok (seem to recall you renewed it recently?) that leaves either the fuses as already suggested or the ignition amp module. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153998310645 Not sure if they'll post to Eire but gives you the part number to find it locally - it's a very popular module (or was!) so i daresay your local motor factor will have one in stock or at least another brand equivalent. Don't forget fresh heatsink compound after cleaning the heatsink when you fit it if it is that. Try the fuses first though!
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
Dec 23rd, 2021, 20:52 | #22 |
Member
Last Online: Aug 29th, 2022 18:08
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dublin
|
Thanks Tony.
The intermittent nature of the fault makes this a difficult problem. It runs fine until it doesn't, and when I say fine I mean it seems to be driving better than when I've ever had it. It starts in under one second, runs great, idles smoothly. Then about 30-60mins in it just dies. No life immediately after the fault occurs (though I didn't check out the rev counter). Where it happens doesn't give me much opportunity to diagnose (though I did get to read the fault code) If I leave it for about 60s it's Ok again (in that it starts totally normally). Today I drove 30 minutes back home after it died without any problems or any sign of the fault reoccurring. I've done weeks of driving in between occurrences, but it appears to be getting worse. That's why it going to be painful to diagnose. In some ways, if it just stayed dead it would help. Unless I can see something obviously brocken, the only thing I can see is to swap each item one by one until it stops happening. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to jlawler For This Useful Post: |
Dec 23rd, 2021, 21:24 | #23 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Yesterday 21:13
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Ashbourne
|
Could it be an essential , electric component overheating? Coil? Ignition switch?
Is that too simple? |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Moomoo For This Useful Post: |
Dec 23rd, 2021, 21:36 | #24 |
Member
Last Online: Aug 29th, 2022 18:08
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dublin
|
Yes the CPS is practically new.
I will check those fuses and the feeds to the coil. If they are Ok I have a spare ignition amp module I can test with. One bit at a time. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to jlawler For This Useful Post: |
Dec 23rd, 2021, 21:42 | #25 | ||
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:56
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
I wouldn't normally recommend the parts-cannon approach but for the sake of £25 or less, buy and fit a new ignition amp and renew fuses #11 & #13 as if nothing else, it will eliminate those from the equation. Will also give you some peace of mind when using it but also make sure the fuel pump relay is secure in its socket. Quote:
Also because of the design, mechanical wear is in fact going to increase the tension on the cnotacts inside rather than reduce it as on other cars. In short, other cars use a cam system in the switch that uses the cams to push the contacts together so wear will reduce the pressure/tension on the contacts. Volvo use cams to move the contacts apart so any wear will allow the contacts to become closer. Also on the same subject, there are a variety of different switches used on the 7/9xx range so until the old one is removed (fairly easy, one plug, two screws and a piece of trim) the part number won't be known.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ Last edited by Laird Scooby; Dec 23rd, 2021 at 23:03. Reason: typoo |
||
Dec 23rd, 2021, 22:09 | #26 |
Member
Last Online: Aug 29th, 2022 18:08
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dublin
|
I'll get a new ignition amp but I can use the spare to test as I won't see a new one this side of the new year.
I also have a spare coil but like you said it is unlikely to be that. Thanks again and hope you get over your booster before Christmas day. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to jlawler For This Useful Post: |
Dec 23rd, 2021, 23:09 | #27 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:56
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
Thanks, the booster was nowhere near as bad as the first two jabs for side effects (at least so far) so i'm hoping i'll be back to normal (whatever that may be! ) by tomorrow.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Jan 3rd, 2022, 18:26 | #28 |
Member
Last Online: Aug 29th, 2022 18:08
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dublin
|
I have ordered an:
1. Ignition Amp 2. Fuel Pump Relay 3. Ignition Relay. I should have them next week. I also had a second Crankcase position sensor (new) so I swapped that in to see if (just in case) the Volvo one was dodgy. No joy on that. I'm suspicious that these won't fix the problem and am thinking it might be the EZK. This is because while all the known parts have been swapped out with new ones (CPS, Temp Sensor) or ones that worked on the donor car (ignition amp, fuel pump relay, ignition relay) the problem hasn't changed. Its almost like a computer crash. It just stops and then if I just leave the ignition off for about 30-60 seconds (it feels like a long time with your hazard flasher on) it just starts up again with no problem. Sometimes it runs for an hour or more sometimes 10 minutes. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to jlawler For This Useful Post: |
Jan 3rd, 2022, 18:33 | #29 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:56
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
Also what are you referringf to as the "ignition relay"?
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Jan 3rd, 2022, 20:10 | #30 |
Member
Last Online: Aug 29th, 2022 18:08
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dublin
|
Hi,
Yes I cleaned the fuses when you mentioned them. The Fuel Pump one (#11) looked a little tarnished but was sound. I have some spares anyway so I swapped it. Again no change in behaviour. What I'm referring to as the Ignition relay is what I think people call the Radio Suppression Relay (is that the correct name?). Mounted close to the ignition amp on wing above the battery. J |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to jlawler For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|