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need a part number or car model for caliper bracketsViews : 1978 Replies : 28Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 30th, 2006, 14:57 | #21 |
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Location: Wrexham
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I think you'll find most people would reuse the bolts with some form of locking compound applied to the manufacturers instructions.
My general rule is that if a fastener has an angular tightening figure applied to it after an initial torque figure, I use new ones. |
Jun 1st, 2006, 00:48 | #22 |
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Last Online: May 17th, 2024 09:12
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Location: Lincolnshire
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ordered the new bolts
on another thought, ive noticed my new Stainless Steel Goodridge brake hoses dont come with any rubber wear rings, to stop them rubbing against the suspension strut. do i need any with these hoses?
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Jun 2nd, 2006, 19:22 | #23 |
VOC Member
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In a word 'No', because they're stainless if they where to rub against the strut it would probably wear away the strut not the hose. I'm doing this exact same conversion on my car and didnt know you could get the braided hoses so cheap.
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Jun 2nd, 2006, 22:34 | #24 |
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Last Online: May 17th, 2024 09:12
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yes
make sure you order the correct length hoses, as the ones on rally designs site are for a standard brake disc setup. anyway i was fitting one of the discs tonight and reading the haynes manual it says "make sure you align the mark on the disc with the one on the hub" or something similar, well ive had a good look and i cant see any mark on the new disc, and the new disc retainer pin seems to fit any of the 3-4 holes in the new brake disc. should i be bothered?
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Jun 2nd, 2006, 22:56 | #25 |
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That's an interesting question. One I've never had to answer as so far all of the discs I've had have only had one hole for the retaining pin drilled in them.
Without having an actual manufacturer matched hub and disc, I don't see that it'll make much difference which ever hole you pick for the retaining pin. |
Jun 5th, 2006, 08:53 | #26 |
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still not finished
this is turning into the brake upgrade from hell. i strongly suggest anyone attempting this upgrade to read the haynes manual caliper removal section first, before deciding whether or not to do the upgrade, especially on older vehicles. this is because i have now discovered im going to need to replace the two front brake pipes, as the steel locking nut has corroded onto the copper brake pipe , and i still havent attempted to take off the rear brake hoses yet.
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Jun 5th, 2006, 10:53 | #27 | |
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Volvo 850R Auto,173K,Bobcat\SW Autos Ecu,18T,Reverse IC,13 Row Engine Oil Cooler,39 Row ATF Cooler,20psi VDO Boost Gauge,6000k HID's (low), Osram 50% Silverstars (High),ITG Filter,OEM Strutbrace,Aerial Down Switch,302mm Front Discs,Ferodo DS2500 Front/Rear,Goodridge SS Hoses,Koni Adjustable Dampers,Eibach Pro Kit, Powerflex Control Arm Bushes, Clear Side Repeaters. http://www.swautos.co.uk SW Auto's Ebay Shop http://www.volvo-tech.co.uk |
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Jun 26th, 2006, 08:53 | #28 |
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hello all
well the front braking system is now finished. just another question for people, before i did the upgrade and after the car seems to pull sometimes to the right when braking gently. its really strange its almost like the wheel alignment is off, you can actually see the steering wheel turn slightly when you apply the brakes. uneven braking did pass my mind and one disc was more worn than the other when i took them off the car, that was one of the other reasons i decided to replace the caliper on the less worn side, but why would there still be uneven braking now?
Last edited by Cypher007; Jun 26th, 2006 at 08:56. |
Jun 26th, 2006, 17:57 | #29 |
VOC Member
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I changed mine to 302's only the other week, I bought new, longer hoses, only to find they where the same length as the ones already on the car. Due to this I just left the old ones on, havent had any problems yet.
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