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Major Service & Light Faults

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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 15:16   #31
TONY1978
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Hi Luxobarge,

I've got some WD40 to spray it all down as I also need to do my windscreen wipers. Plus boot hinges. Might use some grease on the bonnet struts as I'm not sure about WD40 for that job..

Is WD40 OK for the boot hinges?

Question: Do you have the large open gap between the wiper mechanism and rear screen?
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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 15:25   #32
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I think spray Lithium Grease is better than WD40 for that. WD= water dispersant (sp?) .
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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 15:27   #33
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Hi, WD40 will be OK as a temporary measure, but the element within it which is a lubricant is quite small and very thin, so it will soon disperse. It's great as a water dispersant (that's what the WD stands for after all) but not so good as a lubricant especially in outside weather-exposed situations. I use spray grease (or chain-lube) which lasts much longer - in fact motorcycle chain lube also has excellent water repelling properties, for obvious reasons. It's really good for lubricating things like this, and also door/boot hinges and loads of other stuff.

Yes, I did have the "gap" between the wiper and the screen, but after I got the whole mechanism properly lubricated and "supple" the whole blade now stays in contact with the screen at all times, with no gap.

HTH.

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Last edited by Luxobarge; Dec 31st, 2012 at 16:18.
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Old Dec 31st, 2012, 15:51   #34
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I can highly recommend Serbera Tuning in Lincoln, I often take mine up there despite the distance as Keran does a splendid job...and he is an 850/V70 enthusiast. He owns an "R".

Another great garage is Dave Clark Vehicle Services, also in Lincoln. Served me well since 1996 (just after early retirement).
Well worth the trip, and you get a car to use if you need one.

Both are excellent and will never rip you off.


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Old Jan 3rd, 2013, 14:19   #35
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Right, I've started buggering about with my Volvo V70 as the weather is finally half decent..

1) Started taking the ETM apart and I can't get to the 4th bolt with a 10mm spanner so I'll have to wait till tomorrow when I buy a socket set.

2) Took out the plastic thinga-majiga that is attached to the airbox. Should it be secured to the front of the engine bay with rubber bungs?

Also, should the airbox move about? When everything was secure, the airbox moved about too much for my liking. Might be that the thinga-majiga wasn't secured properly at the front of the engine bay.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2013, 16:43   #36
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The interior screws on the dashboard, are they called Torx screws?
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Old Jan 3rd, 2013, 16:48   #37
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Yes, mostly size T20.

Not too sure why you can't get the ETM out using a 10MM spanner as that is all I used last time I took mine out, the last bolt is a tad difficult but it can be done. That said a socket set makes life much easier.
Don't try to pry the electrical connection off the ETM as this isn't a connector, the connector for the ETM is on the front subframe cross member just behind the radiator but you shouldn't need to disconnect this if only cleaning the inlet.

The airbox when seated in the car is simply sat in to few rubber grommets and it will move about a bit but not too much, it could be it's not seated fully - Mike
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Old Jan 5th, 2013, 13:43   #38
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Sorted the ignition problem out and cleaned the ETM.. Everything is now working OK..

Thanks to everyone for advice especially Mike..

Thanks again.
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