Removing Hood/Bonnet Latch Cable Handle

[Volvo Canadian]

Hi - I've decided it is time to get around to some of the long list of jobs for the Amazon this winter. I'm removing all of the interior to have it steam cleaned, as several leaks have stained the door skins, and of course the seats need attention (fyi, see pics of interior in better days - fall of 2011. Notice also that I had the kick-plates and seat hardware chromed, which I think is really nice).

No problems there yet.

Getting all of that off also allows me to investigate what is needed to get the door to stay firmly open via the metal "spring" in the door. The dished end of said spring is supposed to sit on a round, possibly plastic, piece inside the door when it is opened wide, only to slide out again when some pressure is applied to close it. I was advised the piece inside the door could be the problem, but it seems fine. That leaves the spring-steel tongue. Removing the kick-panel on the driver's side to get it out is where I'm stuck right now, because I am not sure what I have to do to take off the bonnet-latch-cable-handle, which will in turn allow me to pull off the kick-plate: Do I have to start at the front of the car and pull the cable all the way out, through the housing? I don't want to do this, as getting it all back in and tight again will be some effort. Anybody remember doing this when pulling your car apart in the past? Any other comments?

Thanks. I also posted earlier on this problem, remembering that I found someone who actually manufactures that piece, as apparently they tend to loose their spring after - ugh - 50 years or so.... I may be getting slightly ahead of myself, but can anyone point me in his direction (again)? No point getting something used if I can help it.

I'll be posting more questions as things progress. A few more come to mind, but I'll try to do them one job at a time.

[Bladerider]

Originally Posted by 122 Canuck

Removing the kick-panel on the driver's side to get it out is where I'm stuck right now, because I am not sure what I have to do to take off the bonnet-latch-cable-handle, which will in turn allow me to pull off the kick-plate: Do I have to start at the front of the car and pull the cable all the way out, through the housing? I don't want to do this, as getting it all back in and tight again will be some effort. Anybody remember doing this when pulling your car apart in the past? Any other comments?

That's the way to do it.

1. Open bonnet (hood)
2. Take grills out to allow you access to the latch plate.
3. Loosen clamp to outer cable, underside of slam panel.
4. Loosen and remove toggle on inner cable end at latch.
5. Inside the car at kick panel bracket, completely slacken backnut at release handle so it can slide along outer cable with any washers.
6. Pull whole cable towards rear of car and into the vehicle, or out the door, catching washers and backnut as they come off.

If you don't want to pull it out again in the future. Whilst everything is out you can slot the bracket fom the top down to the hole at a width just greater than the outer cable, then all you have to do is 1 - 5 above and pull the cable back until it is free to slide up the slot.

Personally I don't have a problem removing the whole lot as it is fairly easy to re-install.

[Volvo Canadian]

Hi, thanks. I can't recall how easy it was to push the wire back through the cable, glad to hear it should be easy. What I was hoping to avoid is re-tightening the barrel clamp on the inner cable after it goes back in - it has to be tight, and the screw is not in very good shape; I guess it is time to replace it, which seems like a no-brainer and I wonder why I have not done it before?

I had another look at the plastic sleeve inside the door and it does seem to be just fine still. I imagine taking it out would be easy enough, but getting it back in, one probably has to remove the spring-steel first, so I guess I'll go ahead with all that and have a look at both pieces.

If I locate the seller of the spring steel, I'll post it on here - nobody else has this problem??

[lukeball]

My back door would close automatically when opened. The spring broke in half.

You can buy a used one from Chris Horn (Agent_Strangelove). There is some adjustment with the plates, they will slide. If yours is not broken, you might need to adjust it. The adjustment is within the piece in the door, if I remember right. It is best to have a socket screwdriver in order to properly tighten it.

It is best to keep the door partially open when adjusting the plate, so that there is not much stress on it.

[Bladerider]

Originally Posted by 122 Canuck

I can't recall how easy it was to push the wire back through the cable, glad to hear it should be easy.

You should not be removing the inner cable/wire from the outer sheath. The whole passes through a bulkhead grommet and lays on the wing (fender) then through another grommet at the front panel.

[Volvo Canadian]

Thanks to both of you - good to know.

I just went out and gave my car a thorough wash, as after the big road trip through the mtns there was still a fair bit of salt-mud in hard to get places. Now I can get to jobs like figuring out the door, which might otherwise prevent me from making the drive to the wand-wash.

[Bladerider]

Wand wash !!!!

Is that some kind of medical treatment for blokes?

[Volvo Canadian]

Ahh, two countries divided by a common language. I don't know what else to call it - manual wash? Anyway, I don't want to know what you had in mind.

Luke - girlfriend's birthday yesterday, I might get back to you on that adjustment.

[Volvo Canadian]

Hi. Got 'er done last night. No real problems getting the cable in and out, as promised. I managed to do it without removing the grills, which I did because mine are a little difficult to remove and re-install.

As far as the door-spring goes, once I got it out it seemed unlikely the metal was fatigued or worn enough to be a problem - pretty thick! Still, it wasn't working, so I decided I would try just bending it back out a bit, and all seems well now. That could be a temporary fix, but they are a bit of a fiddle to get back in and I am imagining someone may have bent it in the past to make it fit - I don't know about you, but bodyshops in Canada are populated by a strange cross between monkey and human due to all of the solvents inhaled over the years.

I couldn't get the roller on the inside of the door out, as the screws had not been removed before paint (....) and were stuck. It was still intact and rolled okay, so rather than get agressive, I tried the above, and it seems to work.

[Bladerider]

Glad all went well for u and problem now sorted.