Guide for ABL Bi-Xenon bulb replacement

[tt82]

Hi all

This is my guide for changing the Bi-Xenon bulbs on a Phase 3 V70.

First thing is to check which bulbs you need. The bulbs for mine were D1S bulbs, made by Osram. Other Volvo models, ie P2 S60/V70 and S40/V50 use a D2S bulb. If your not sure which you need then the best thing to do is take the back of the unit off and look at the bulb itself.

So, the car - a 2009 V70 with Active Bending Bi-Xenon Lights.

http://imageshack.us/a/img442/8940/dscf0754j.jpg

Before starting I gave the car a quick wash, especially around the top of the headlights, just to remove any dirt.

There are a lot of warnings about Bi-Xenons, due to the high Voltages used/created, approx 22,000 volts. It is recommended that the battery negative lead is disconected and then turn on the main and dipped beams alternately to dissipate any residual electrical energy. I turned the light switch to on before starting.

http://imageshack.us/a/img404/5619/dscf0790d.jpg

The next job is to pull up the 2 securing levers (or tent pegs as I like to call them) and remove them.

http://imageshack.us/a/img716/9760/dscf0791z.jpg

Once you have the levers removed, the unit can then be slid forward until the wiring connecter is seen. To discconect this you need to push down on the tab (Red arrow) on the top and pull it away (Blue arrow). I found it was very tight and so using a flat blade screw driver to lever it out helps. I've also applied some copperease as a lube to make it easier to remove next time.

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/4857/dscf0793edit.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img600/9506/dscf0851n.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img560/9821/dscf0853qk.jpg

You can now remove the headlight unit and take it to a more suitable place to work. I found the boot very convenient. I also laid down a towel to create a clean working surface.

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/8275/dscf0794k.jpg

Unclip this bar and you can then unclip and remove the rear cover.

http://imageshack.us/a/img826/6632/dscf0795xh.jpg

Now you can see the bulb in the Headlight. You can see the start of "Osram" as well as the osram bulb code "66144" and "D1S". This should be a 4300K bulb.

http://imageshack.us/a/img163/636/dscf0796do.jpg

The next job is to remove the power cable for the bulb. Whilst supporting the bulb with one hand, simply pull the cable straight down until it is disconnected. Then tuck it out of the way to make remove the bulb easier.

http://imageshack.us/a/img339/568/dscf0797h.jpg

To remove the bulb you need to press on the metal clips, pushing them forward and to the left, until they are clear of the clips on the top.

http://imageshack.us/a/img839/7899/dscf0798edit.jpg

Hurrah, the bulb is out! Well done.

http://imageshack.us/a/img29/1556/dscf0799l.jpg

Refitting the bulb and the headlight is just the reversal of removing.





Notes and observations.

Volvo Genuine Bulbs: My dealer quoted me £153 for a single bulb. Rufe, IIRC sells them for £122, I was able to get 2 bulbs from Rufe with postage for £250.

Other options: Bulbs can be found on ebay or from other online retailers with prices ranging from £30 to £100.

A possible thrid option: I ordered 2 D2S by mistake initially. On removing the old bulb and comparing the 2, I though I might be able to remove the base and it looked as it it was a D2S bulb simple placed in the metal casing. Unfortunately this isn' the case. The bulb is one complete unit!

However it is possible to get a D2S to D1S converter. D2S bulbs do seem to be slightly cheaper and offer a little more choice in different colour temperatures. My maths works it out that buying D2S bulbs and using the D1S converterm than after replacing the 3rd bulb you would save money.

However with Bi-Xenon bulbs having a 3,000 hour life, approximately 7 years at average mileage, it would mean you keeping the car for a very long time to make it worthwhile.

[GrantA]

Thanks for that tt82, it is an excellent guide and well illustrated, all we need now is for a Mod to make it a "Sticky" or "Article" so it can be referenced easily.

Well done!!

[rnlisg]

hi tt82
excellent write up and photo,s,top marks,i just replaced the dippers in my 09xc7o(not xenons)and also found the plug on the back of the assembly really tight,ended up with swmbo holding light assembly while i used a small flat screwdriver and a little wd sqirted on to it to remove.
your post should def be a sticky
cheers
sandy

[tt82]

Just edited the post. I applied some copperease on my connecters to make them easier to remove next time.



Though I'm hoping this won't be for a while.

[lukas430000]

tt82 great write up and very handy instructions.

Just one thing bugs me. Why majority people calling them bi-xenon as they are not bi but single beam ones. Bi Xenons using mechanical device to redirect light pattern to get high beam. S80 using single beam xenons for low beam and halogen bulbs for high beam.

[GrantA]

Originally Posted by lukas430000

tt82 great write up and very handy instructions.

Just one thing bugs me. Why majority people calling them bi-xenon as they are not bi but single beam ones. Bi Xenons using mechanical device to redirect light pattern to get high beam. S80 using single beam xenons for low beam and halogen bulbs for high beam.

On my car (XC70 with bi-xenons) when you put your headlights on, switch or flash, the "bi"-xenon beam moves upwards to match the projection of the headlight beam, this move is mechanically driven somehow. When you switch back to dipped beam the bi-xenons move back down to the dipped position and the headlights go out. Your S80 might be different but that is why "mine" are called bi-xenons.

[lukas430000]

Learn every day. Thanks Grant. But to me it's still single beam xenon. Bi xenons dont have separate bulb for high beam.

[LTP]

I found this thread from an internet search. I joined this forum just so I could thank tt82.

Changed both bulbs on my '07 V70 in 15 mins using this thread.

One comment. My connectors were stiff but I just gently levered off with a large, blunt screwdriver, using a "chubby" flat driver to depress the connector latch. I don't think I'd use Copperslip on plastics as I'm not sure if it's hydrocarbon-based or compatible; some plastics can be affected by hydrocarbon-based greases so I left my connectors dry - lets face it my car is 7 years old and these bulbs will probably see out my ownership.

I also found it easier to flick off the two clips (that need to be undone after the bar is moved across to remove the rear cover and access the bulb) with a screwdriver rather than try to press on the other, ribbed end.

Bit of a fiddle to get the lamps back in and aligned.

Good job TT82

[mhon72]

Originally Posted by lukas430000

Learn every day. Thanks Grant. But to me it's still single beam xenon. Bi xenons dont have separate bulb for high beam.

"Bi" means the single bulb provides both the dipped and high beam.
Before the advent of bi-xenon mechanisms the xenon would remain in the fixed dipped position and a second halogen beam would be needed for the high beam. A second xenon bulb isn't really viable due to the warm up time needed when switched on - that's why they're not used when you flash the headlights.

[Model flyer]

Good post tt82,well done. Hopefully it will allow many more owners to replace their bulbs without driving around for weeks on one headlamp.Certainly the case in Kent as virtually no traffic police to deter drivers ! I did wince when you quoted the price Volvo are charging for D1S bulbs. They have gone up a lot since I had to replace mine a year ago , they were £103 each then ! I sourced some on the internet for £28 for 2. They are brilliant, pun sorry ,light the road well and don't dazzle oncoming drivers. I also bought a spare set from e-bay for £8-50 delivered from China . Tried them and just as good now back in reserve. Even if they only last a year its still a BIG saving on Volvo price.
Keep on posting.