Remote Fob Battery Keeps Going Flat - Page 2

Daim · Mar 19th, 2011, 20:46

Erm...

The fobs both say "battery low" when put in the ignition. Yes?

Give the car a reset... Remove battery cable (from car!) and then put it back on again. If the same message comes again, then it can be a "receiver" fault in the car. The receiver might have a little fault... The old Volvos had a ring around the ignition switch (where the key goes into) which would "pack up". I wouldn't be surprised if your car has the same issues...

ADBS65 · Mar 26th, 2011, 18:06

Update! I fitted 2 x new fob batteries, 1 per fob. Before hand I checked them, both batteries showed 3.5 volts. I put one fob away and used the other fob to lock/unlock the car and drive it. Initially all ok but less than 48hrs later and no longer working again. I have yet to check the voltage, but I anticiapte less than 2.25 volts if previous experience is anything to go by. I have just checked the other fob that has not been used at all, this now shows 2.9 volts so it has dropped 0.6 volts in the same time period doing nothing at all.
I rang my Volvo dealer who informed me that there is no way anything on the car can be draining the fob, as the car reads the key to enable it to start and does not and cannot draw any power from the fob battery. The only conclusion I have come to is that one of the fobs [the spare] was on its last legs when I bought the car and as I never used it I didn't know. The 2nd fob has now worn out too and is effectively drainng the battery whether I am using it or not. This is why both fobs "appear" to have failed at the same time. Volvo are talking £100 to supply and code a new fob and have told me that if I buy from say ebay or off the net, then they cannot code these fobs to my car? I of course run the risk of getting another dodgy fob buying second hand although I have seen new ones cheaper than Volvo supplies them for, but if Volvo won't code them then they are no use!
Any views advice welcome.
Andy

Clan · Mar 26th, 2011, 19:18

Well , that's a pretty comprehensive test and seems to prove that the fobs are indeed faulty .
Your only option is a new one ( preferably two in case you get stuck somewhere ) and yes it has to be coded by a dealer , It isnt their choice whether they code a second hand one or not , the new key comes with a hexadecimal code on a sticker and if that isnt present the fob is useless . £100 isnt too bad when you compare with other makes and models with less secure methods of coding keys !

ADBS65 · Mar 26th, 2011, 19:35

Would the new fob be the same code as the 2 that don't work? I was thinking that I could keep them without batteries in as back up so I only need to insert a battery into one of them in an emergency. The meatl door key of course would be the same, so i could always get into the car.
Andy

SpeedyReedy · Mar 26th, 2011, 19:44

I had to replace a fob earlier this year as it stopped working i.e wouldn't lock or unlock the car remotely. New one was sorted by the dealer the only change was that 3 keys are now listed on the main menu rather than the original 2. Faulty key still works in the the ignition.

Clan · Mar 26th, 2011, 20:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADBS65

Would the new fob be the same code as the 2 that don't work? I was thinking that I could keep them without batteries in as back up so I only need to insert a battery into one of them in an emergency. The meatl door key of course would be the same, so i could always get into the car.
Andy

Each and every fob has a unique code ... good thinking , normal practice is to remove lost or faulty keys from the memory when adding new ones , but you can ask for just the new one to be added as a third key ...
As the car is completely useless without a working key, if it were mine i would hide an old key and battery in the car somewhere , so if the worst came to the worst you would only have to break a window to get on your way again .. if you lost a key or one became faulty when you were miles from home .

ADBS65 · Mar 26th, 2011, 20:35

How much did they charge you for a fob and to code it?
Andy

SpeedyReedy · Mar 26th, 2011, 20:42

New key to replace faulty spare for my 2005/6 S40 in Jan £92.00 + vat listed as supply and fit remote and master key application.
Broken down as follows.

Key £56.00
Master key application £10.02
Fit remote £25.79

This is how it was listed on my service invoice.

Weejada77 · May 11th, 2013, 22:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADBS65

Update! I fitted 2 x new fob batteries, 1 per fob. Before hand I checked them, both batteries showed 3.5 volts. I put one fob away and used the other fob to lock/unlock the car and drive it. Initially all ok but less than 48hrs later and no longer working again. I have yet to check the voltage, but I anticiapte less than 2.25 volts if previous experience is anything to go by. I have just checked the other fob that has not been used at all, this now shows 2.9 volts so it has dropped 0.6 volts in the same time period doing nothing at all.
I rang my Volvo dealer who informed me that there is no way anything on the car can be draining the fob, as the car reads the key to enable it to start and does not and cannot draw any power from the fob battery. The only conclusion I have come to is that one of the fobs [the spare] was on its last legs when I bought the car and as I never used it I didn't know. The 2nd fob has now worn out too and is effectively drainng the battery whether I am using it or not. This is why both fobs "appear" to have failed at the same time. Volvo are talking £100 to supply and code a new fob and have told me that if I buy from say ebay or off the net, then they cannot code these fobs to my car? I of course run the risk of getting another dodgy fob buying second hand although I have seen new ones cheaper than Volvo supplies them for, but if Volvo won't code them then they are no use!
Any views advice welcome.
Andy

Did the new fobs solve this problem?

I am having the EXACT same issue with the 2 fobs I have for my 54 plate V50. Sounds like a bit of a coincidence that 2 people could have 2 keys going wrong in the same way? Have any other people had this issue? And is the only solution 2 new fobs? Bit expensive!

Thanks.

gcalla10 · May 12th, 2013, 15:43

I am having the same problem (without the message on the dash). First fob stopped working then 2 months later the second fob stopped working. Can still start the car but can not lock/unlock the door. Replaced the fuse and fob battery but that did not solve the problem. (2008 S40 1.6).

Mar 19th, 2011, 20:46	#11
Daim Brit in Germany Last Online: Jun 6th, 2024 15:57 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Bremen	Erm... The fobs both say "battery low" when put in the ignition. Yes? Give the car a reset... Remove battery cable (from car!) and then put it back on again. If the same message comes again, then it can be a "receiver" fault in the car. The receiver might have a little fault... The old Volvos had a ring around the ignition switch (where the key goes into) which would "pack up". I wouldn't be surprised if your car has the same issues... __________________ The Best Nation Is Imagination 2010 V70 (Type 135) D5 (D5244T10) Automatic (TF-80SC)

Mar 26th, 2011, 18:06	#12
ADBS65 Member Last Online: Mar 11th, 2024 12:13 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wolverhampton	Update! I fitted 2 x new fob batteries, 1 per fob. Before hand I checked them, both batteries showed 3.5 volts. I put one fob away and used the other fob to lock/unlock the car and drive it. Initially all ok but less than 48hrs later and no longer working again. I have yet to check the voltage, but I anticiapte less than 2.25 volts if previous experience is anything to go by. I have just checked the other fob that has not been used at all, this now shows 2.9 volts so it has dropped 0.6 volts in the same time period doing nothing at all. I rang my Volvo dealer who informed me that there is no way anything on the car can be draining the fob, as the car reads the key to enable it to start and does not and cannot draw any power from the fob battery. The only conclusion I have come to is that one of the fobs [the spare] was on its last legs when I bought the car and as I never used it I didn't know. The 2nd fob has now worn out too and is effectively drainng the battery whether I am using it or not. This is why both fobs "appear" to have failed at the same time. Volvo are talking £100 to supply and code a new fob and have told me that if I buy from say ebay or off the net, then they cannot code these fobs to my car? I of course run the risk of getting another dodgy fob buying second hand although I have seen new ones cheaper than Volvo supplies them for, but if Volvo won't code them then they are no use! Any views advice welcome. Andy __________________ Andy 2011 Volvo S60 ES D3 Manual

Mar 26th, 2011, 19:18	#13
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Yesterday 23:40 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	Well , that's a pretty comprehensive test and seems to prove that the fobs are indeed faulty . Your only option is a new one ( preferably two in case you get stuck somewhere ) and yes it has to be coded by a dealer , It isnt their choice whether they code a second hand one or not , the new key comes with a hexadecimal code on a sticker and if that isnt present the fob is useless . £100 isnt too bad when you compare with other makes and models with less secure methods of coding keys ! __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

Mar 26th, 2011, 19:35	#14
ADBS65 Member Last Online: Mar 11th, 2024 12:13 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wolverhampton	Would the new fob be the same code as the 2 that don't work? I was thinking that I could keep them without batteries in as back up so I only need to insert a battery into one of them in an emergency. The meatl door key of course would be the same, so i could always get into the car. Andy __________________ Andy 2011 Volvo S60 ES D3 Manual

Mar 26th, 2011, 19:44	#15
SpeedyReedy VOC Member Last Online: May 22nd, 2024 06:10 Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cambridgeshire	I had to replace a fob earlier this year as it stopped working i.e wouldn't lock or unlock the car remotely. New one was sorted by the dealer the only change was that 3 keys are now listed on the main menu rather than the original 2. Faulty key still works in the the ignition. __________________ Speedyreedy V70 D5 2010 2015 - 2023 S40 1.8 2006 2010 - 2015 S40 1.8i 1999 2002 - 2010 340 1.4 1991 1994 - 2002

Mar 26th, 2011, 20:35	#17
ADBS65 Member Last Online: Mar 11th, 2024 12:13 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wolverhampton	How much did they charge you for a fob and to code it? Andy __________________ Andy 2011 Volvo S60 ES D3 Manual

Mar 26th, 2011, 20:42	#18
SpeedyReedy VOC Member Last Online: May 22nd, 2024 06:10 Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cambridgeshire	New key to replace faulty spare for my 2005/6 S40 in Jan £92.00 + vat listed as supply and fit remote and master key application. Broken down as follows. Key £56.00 Master key application £10.02 Fit remote £25.79 This is how it was listed on my service invoice. __________________ Speedyreedy V70 D5 2010 2015 - 2023 S40 1.8 2006 2010 - 2015 S40 1.8i 1999 2002 - 2010 340 1.4 1991 1994 - 2002

May 12th, 2013, 15:43	#20
gcalla10 New Member Last Online: Oct 31st, 2016 21:29 Join Date: May 2013 Location: Fauldhouse	I am having the same problem (without the message on the dash). First fob stopped working then 2 months later the second fob stopped working. Can still start the car but can not lock/unlock the door. Replaced the fuse and fob battery but that did not solve the problem. (2008 S40 1.6).

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