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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Nov 17th, 2013, 21:42 | #31 |
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The greatest comfort was when I happened to spot my friend Tony (who works at the favoured Volvo specialist) outside the pub when I was on my way back from buying a tool. I was filthy, of course; he instantly guessed what I 'd been up to.
I vented a bit about the ****ing stupid location of the ****ing bolts and how all the designers were ****ing sadistic ****holes etc. And he said, "Yes, that's what I hear from the mechanics all day long at work."
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Nov 17th, 2013, 21:44 | #32 | |
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Quote:
Hang on: I've been away; you've got a Vectra?!
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Nov 17th, 2013, 22:04 | #33 |
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Ye, ive got a big tool box to You don't need a metal load guard and full fitting kit do yer? :P
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Vectra VXR estate convert Experience = V40 1998 2.0 CD lots of mods Busy pestering the poor sods here now |
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Nov 17th, 2013, 22:16 | #34 |
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LOL I've seen your sale thread now.
Dog bars? thanks but no - never really needed those. (I'd hang on to those roof rails. Price doubles in the Spring I think.)
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Nov 17th, 2013, 22:39 | #35 |
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Bump for this question: Clan? Someone?
There is something that is preying on my mind because I can't quite get it clear in my own mind, no matter how much I read. Thinking about the loss of timing that chomerly suffered - see post 67 and Clan's reply in post 68 of this thread: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=185008 How do I avoid it? I mean, given that the camshafts have to come off for me to replace the valve, is there going to be any way of putting it back together just by carefully marking the positions of the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys? Or am I bound to need a special tool? I may have misunderstood, but it looks to me as if chomerly's problem arose because he took the pulleys off the camshafts, and so lost the exact alignment of the cams when putting it back together - in a way that (?) he might not have done if the pulleys had stayed on the camshafts. If that's right, next question is: Do the pulleys have to come off the camshafts or can I in principle complete the job without removing them?
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Nov 17th, 2013, 22:49 | #36 | |
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Quote:
Bear in mind that new belts often come with alignment marks to line up with the sprocket alignment marks. I'm not sure that that alignment is preserved after the engine has been rotated, though - so don't get confused by having two sets of marks that don't correlate. May well be best to get the alignment tool. Worth checking e.g. Sealey to see if they do one: might be cheaper than getting it from Volvo. Though Rufe's discounts may help with the latter.
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1989 740 GL 2.0 estate 2000 V40 2.0 (gone) 2005 Toyota Avensis 2.0 estate (gone) 2012 Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCi estate 1999 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 |
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Nov 18th, 2013, 06:51 | #37 |
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I would assume you won't have such a bad time relineing up as you don't have vvt you need to look if your sprockets can be individually timed or just bolt onto the cam in one position
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Nov 18th, 2013, 09:06 | #38 | |
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Quote:
I did read somewhere that the chap who was doing the same as you just filed or put a hacksaw down passed the cover/pulley so he could just take off the cover without removing either pulley. I have never seen it but have a look now that you are at that stage and it may be a short cut worth knowing! Good Luck |
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Nov 18th, 2013, 09:25 | #39 |
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Nov 18th, 2013, 13:17 | #40 |
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Does anyone know offhand the size of spanner/socket that I'll need to turn the crankshaft to line up timing marks in the first instance?
I was going to go and buy something the right size thsi afternoon - I know I'll need to - but stupidly forgot to measure it (and of course thwe car is not with me).
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