D5 oil pressure light

[Samevans]

Hi guys just bought my first volvo she's an s60 d5 manual with 80k and full service history my question is its just been serviced and had somthing like 0w-30 oil in it I need to check what exactly but once or twice on start up after being left over nigh the oil pressure light is very slow going out then I had a message flash up you have no oil pressure but it was litteraly for 1 second and gone is this normal
Any comments greatly appreciated

[cheshired5]

If it's the first couple of turn ons since the change, maybe not unusual but otherwise no, it isn't normal.
Take it back so they can recheck their work.

[5cilinder]

Besides that 0w30 are wateroils the euro3 has thicker 5w40 prescribed wich builds quicker pressure and protection with better zincdopes

Also if the litle o ring on the rod beneath the filtercap is gone or not correct seated the oilfilter will drain out after each stop wich creates a lag in the oilsuply and pressure
Oil services are easy and done by myself because i want to make sure wich oil and filter goes in

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by Samevans

Hi guys just bought my first volvo she's an s60 d5 manual with 80k and full service history my question is its just been serviced and had somthing like 0w-30 oil in it I need to check what exactly but once or twice on start up after being left over nigh the oil pressure light is very slow going out then I had a message flash up you have no oil pressure but it was litteraly for 1 second and gone is this normal
Any comments greatly appreciated

What exactly do you mean by, "Very slow going out" ??
A low oil pressure warning is serious stuff and it's much more likely to have been caused by fuel dillution if a DPF is fitted, than wrong oil. If the oil is too thin it will rattle at idle when hot.

It's always best to assume the worst when buying a used car that has no warranty and even if Volvo serviced it I would not forget that the dealer service intervals are often far too long for short trippers or city based cars. So I would dump the oil & filter asap and use an oil that cleans well, like Shell Helix Ultra. One of the 0w40 Ultras oils is good for a DPF or the standard 5w40 if not.
Also make sure you know how the dipstick works in terms of correct oil level (Some need to be screwed in, but I think Ford blocks are just push in) and keep the first oil change interval to 3K miles to make sure the block is clean.

0w30 is a good viscosity range for use in winter and most newer Volvo cars can use it all year, BUT SAE values are ranges and Castrol Edge is right at the top of the 30 range and near to Mobil 1 0w40 (Another good cleaner) in actual viscosity terms.

When in use oil thins out over the first part of a long service interval and then if the detergent additives run out, it starts to thicken up from Carbon based clumps forming (The dreaded black death syndrome). That tends to be obvious from cold start rattles caused by poor oil flow and simple dipstick finger tests (Too think and very black), BUT fuel contamination can offset that effect in the DPF afflicted.
Liqui Moly Ceratec was designed to deal with the increased wear caused by DPF's and is very effective if you insist on long oil change intervals. No need to use it in a new engine, although I do use it in any older turbo engine.