V70 Suspension: - Which parts to buy?

MWMan · Apr 15th, 2016, 09:14

At 130,000 the wishbones on my V70 are starting to float around, so I am going to change those out. However, when doing the shock absorber bounce check, its seems quite soft on the front, so I'm thinking of doing the shock absorbers as well.

I am going to leave the original springs in and the drop links look OK, so I will probably leave those for the time being anyway.

My question is: Other than the strut, which parts should I get. On the attached diagram, do I need to just order the parts 6, 7 8 and 9? Also, from experience, should I change the top and bottom isolators, or do these just go back on?

This will be the first time I have ever changed a shock absorber on any car, so apologies for what may seem a simple question.

thanks

cheshired5 · Apr 15th, 2016, 09:24

At 170k, I just needed shocks but it's one of those jobs where you don't truly know what you need until everything's apart so you can take a chance or do the lot.

Longhouse21 · Apr 15th, 2016, 09:39

I changed the spring cup seats and top bearing when I did mine (parts 5 & 6) along with drop links & control arms. Wished I'd changed the lower ball joint as well whilst I had it all in bits as it was showing a little bit of play but I'll get around to doing that soon.
I also opted to change the tired looking brake flex hoses as well.
As Ches says, you won't know until you have it apart but for the extra cost (spring cup ,6 around £10 for a Febi part and the top bearings, 5 at somewhere between £25 -£35 IIRC for Febi again) I just decided it was best to do them whilst they were out.

MWMan · Apr 15th, 2016, 13:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhouse21

I changed the spring cup seats and top bearing when I did mine (parts 5 & 6) along with drop links & control arms. Wished I'd changed the lower ball joint as well whilst I had it all in bits as it was showing a little bit of play but I'll get around to doing that soon.
I also opted to change the tired looking brake flex hoses as well.
As Ches says, you won't know until you have it apart but for the extra cost (spring cup ,6 around £10 for a Febi part and the top bearings, 5 at somewhere between £25 -£35 IIRC for Febi again) I just decided it was best to do them whilst they were out.

Many thanks for this. Your description has made me realise that the "top bearing" described as the Support Plate in VIDA (no.5 on the diagram) is something I definitely need. I'll also have a good look at the state of the bottom ball joints.

thankyou

moorgate · Apr 15th, 2016, 20:12

my top mount rubbers were completely shot when my wishbones needed doing, so I bit the bullet and, since the shocks were going to come out when the mounts were done, I ordered a full set of Bilstein B4's from PFS. It was only about 9 months after that, that my man said the remainder of the clonks and groans were the offside balljoint!

So it's worth doing as much as you can afford, assuming that your wear pattern is roughly like mine. I suspect it's speed bumps that do for these bits, and they all go together, more or less. It wasn't horribly expensive to do, overall, and the driving experience is so much better I consider it money well spent.

jgjones095 · Apr 15th, 2016, 22:17

I'd change no 5 when had a spring snap and found they were shot too

I did also have to get 7 as it disintegrated on one side.

Apr 15th, 2016, 09:24	#2
cheshired5 Premier Member Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Crewe	At 170k, I just needed shocks but it's one of those jobs where you don't truly know what you need until everything's apart so you can take a chance or do the lot. __________________ 2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles

Apr 15th, 2016, 09:39	#3
Longhouse21 Master Member Last Online: Jun 16th, 2024 10:18 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Warrington	I changed the spring cup seats and top bearing when I did mine (parts 5 & 6) along with drop links & control arms. Wished I'd changed the lower ball joint as well whilst I had it all in bits as it was showing a little bit of play but I'll get around to doing that soon. I also opted to change the tired looking brake flex hoses as well. As Ches says, you won't know until you have it apart but for the extra cost (spring cup ,6 around £10 for a Febi part and the top bearings, 5 at somewhere between £25 -£35 IIRC for Febi again) I just decided it was best to do them whilst they were out. __________________ Current cars: 2003 V70 D5 SE (MY2004); 2012 CRV 2.0i V-TEC; Gone but not forgotten: 2001 Honda HRV; 1989 VW Polo C Mk2; 2000 Honda Civic VTi Aerodeck ; Cavalier SRi; Cavalier LX; 1971 Triumph Spitfire Mk3; 1963 Triumph Herald.

Apr 15th, 2016, 22:17	#6
jgjones095 Master Member Last Online: Apr 29th, 2024 14:20 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: South wales	I'd change no 5 when had a spring snap and found they were shot too I did also have to get 7 as it disintegrated on one side. __________________ Who said Volvos were build to last? 2.4t V70XC Auto 2001 165k D5 185 XC70 M66 2006 202k

Apr 15th, 2016, 20:12	#5
moorgate Senior Member Last Online: Apr 24th, 2024 22:56 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: london, ec2	my top mount rubbers were completely shot when my wishbones needed doing, so I bit the bullet and, since the shocks were going to come out when the mounts were done, I ordered a full set of Bilstein B4's from PFS. It was only about 9 months after that, that my man said the remainder of the clonks and groans were the offside balljoint! So it's worth doing as much as you can afford, assuming that your wear pattern is roughly like mine. I suspect it's speed bumps that do for these bits, and they all go together, more or less. It wasn't horribly expensive to do, overall, and the driving experience is so much better I consider it money well spent.

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