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Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines. |
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Swirl Arm low cost repair!Views : 169410 Replies : 183Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 24th, 2016, 18:34 | #131 |
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Last Online: Sep 11th, 2017 19:07
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Camelford
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What a good idea....is it working. Will do mine as been quoted £700 by Volvo. Bless them
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Oct 24th, 2016, 21:45 | #132 |
xc90, volvo number five
Last Online: Jun 8th, 2024 23:08
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Grappenhall
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Not driven far with it yet , but as soon as I started it up the motor started to modulate , never seen it move before ! may not use the car for a couple of weeks , but I'll update when I do
Dave |
Oct 27th, 2016, 16:56 | #133 |
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Last Online: Sep 21st, 2017 03:20
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Staffs
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I've just found this thread, went down my local garage today and got the following code
ECM - 1850 swirl actuator control. I've read this thread with people using cable ties, key rings etc. My actuator arm/linkage doesn't look broken, or any signs of cracks. What actually am I looking for? Thanks |
Nov 4th, 2016, 16:50 | #134 |
xc90, volvo number five
Last Online: Jun 8th, 2024 23:08
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Grappenhall
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modified swirl arm still working perfectly
Dave |
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Nov 4th, 2016, 17:03 | #135 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 14:46
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Grays, Essex
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I tried some picture wire first, no go, snapped easy, then I used a metal button and its now gone.
Yesterday I thought, ok Ill try another option. I sawed the ball off the end that fixes to the engine side, made the hole a little bigger so it could take a 4.5mm bolt like this (only a little longer) I fed the bolt through fron the left side (the flap that moves back and forward), I then put on a single nut, made sure it was very tight (this is to hold the bolt to the flappy thing) I then put the arm on, threading the now ball less end onto the nut. I then using a arge set of wire cutters, destroyed 1 layer of the threads right up to where the arm is placed. I screwed on a single nut up to where the thread was destroyed, the now destroyed thread stopped the nut going right up to the arm. Then I destroyed the thread in front of the nut, so now I have the arm on, the nut wont come off, and it is working 100% perfect, and it moves back and forth problem free. It was as fiddly as you can get, using several paids of long nose pliers to hold things and try and turn things, but it has worked. |
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Nov 9th, 2016, 19:10 | #136 |
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Last Online: Aug 8th, 2018 22:12
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Ramsgate
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My story and fix - 2009 V70 2.4D
I was having lots of performance issues and had already swapped out the MAF - no change, then replaced the fuel filter -smoother and a little more torque, but still had very little mid-range/acceleration performance issues.
So I was hunting down leaks and generally checking connections etc. with the engine running. Then I shut down the engine and heard this strange actuator cycling noise coming from the engine. Soon noticed the swirl arm actuator cycling back and forth, but the link arm wasn't connected to anything! There is a small oil weep around that area and i suspect this may have contributed to the issue i.e. contaminating the plastic arm. The arm was too easy to reconnect to the ball joint on the engine side and would easily slip off. My solution was to remove the arm and modify the loose fitting end by drilling a hole across the width of the arm close the the end fitting. I then put a 2.5mm nut and bolt to act as a clamp and adjusted it until it was a tight "snap" fit to the ball joint. Gave it a test drive and still attached when I came back. However, whilst the drive is a lot better, still have mid-range performance issues. I have an EML327 on order, so will get readings from that before doing any more "fixes". I'll add some updates if I find anything useful |
Nov 11th, 2016, 14:51 | #137 |
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Last Online: Aug 8th, 2018 22:12
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Ramsgate
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Update
Update
Ok, I now have the fault codes - all are 'related' P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Malfunction P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Range/Performance Problem P010B Mass or Volume Air Flow "B" Circuit Range/Performance P010F Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor A/B Correlation P2A00 02 sensor circuit range/performance bank 1 sensor 1 P0238 Engine Turbocharger/Supercharger boost sensor "A" Circuit High P0234 Engine Turbocharger/Supercharger Overboost Condition P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 I am pretty sure the MAF is ok, but may try a swap out with a known good one to be sure. I may just do an EGR inspection/clean next. It won't harm if it needs doing. But if anyone fancies suggesting some other easy checks/swaps/changes, I'd be pleased to hear them Cheers |
Nov 16th, 2016, 23:49 | #138 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 14:46
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Location: Grays, Essex
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just to update, since my fix, I have had no further errors related to the arm, and performance has been noticably better, arm mod working perfect, I fear now the arm will simpluy snap, being plastic, but Ill handle that later.
I will be driving to Brussels, and on to Rotterdam, then back home again next week so around 700 miles, that should be a pretty good test |
Feb 20th, 2017, 21:58 | #139 | |
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Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 22:31
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Location: Petersfield
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Quote:
So I guess my problem means I can't try any of these handy DIY repairs but I am not about to pay £900.....I had better have a good dig around myself to see for sure what the actual problem is. Certainly worth the effort... |
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Apr 2nd, 2017, 19:52 | #140 |
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Location: leek
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