Brakes: - S60 binding rear brakes - Page 2

111 · Nov 30th, 2016, 12:08

I had exactly the same with mine (2008) and it was the handbrake mechanism not returning enough the clear the drum surface area, a lot of WD40 and someone working the handbrake while I sprayed and pushed the little lever back about 40 times on both sides did the trick, check the shoes and one side will probs be a lot more worn than the other, mine was the left hand side but I did both while I was at it and changed the shoes for genuine volvo. try pulling the handbrake a bit to see if it makes a difference while its doing it, but if its quite seized this may not make a difference.
It was quite a thudding sound and feel when it does it and a lot of heat given off.

D5meister · Nov 30th, 2016, 19:10

When people say "slides" ?

The slide pins should have silicone grease.

If the the slide pin gaiters have copper grease on - discard and replace - put silicone grease in as above.

The Dovetails where the pad lugs live will benefit from small ammount of copper grease. Rake the rust out of these lug channels prior to smears of copper.

Copper grease stops rust, it does not wash or burn off or this with heat and stays put. Dont get ANY greases near tha pad linings or the disk.

Coventry · Nov 30th, 2016, 19:22

Years ago I had a binding rear caliper that I initially took off, cleaned and also cleaned the slide pins. It worked ok for about 1 year then the same problem occured again. Went straight to the local auto factor and bought a new (reconditioned, I assume) caliper. That cured the issue for good: the brake has been fine since.

I choose not to rebuild (seals) and now go straight for the new caliper if I've already cleaned the slider pins and found no difference. The cost of a new caliper is slight and replacement is quick.

Nov 30th, 2016, 12:08	#11
111 Darkest Stockton-on-Tees Last Online: Jan 17th, 2024 08:06 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockton-on-Tees	I had exactly the same with mine (2008) and it was the handbrake mechanism not returning enough the clear the drum surface area, a lot of WD40 and someone working the handbrake while I sprayed and pushed the little lever back about 40 times on both sides did the trick, check the shoes and one side will probs be a lot more worn than the other, mine was the left hand side but I did both while I was at it and changed the shoes for genuine volvo. try pulling the handbrake a bit to see if it makes a difference while its doing it, but if its quite seized this may not make a difference. It was quite a thudding sound and feel when it does it and a lot of heat given off. Last edited by 111; Nov 30th, 2016 at 12:11.

Nov 30th, 2016, 19:10	#12
D5meister Premier Member Last Online: Feb 10th, 2024 19:13 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Huntingdon	When people say "slides" ? The slide pins should have silicone grease. If the the slide pin gaiters have copper grease on - discard and replace - put silicone grease in as above. The Dovetails where the pad lugs live will benefit from small ammount of copper grease. Rake the rust out of these lug channels prior to smears of copper. Copper grease stops rust, it does not wash or burn off or this with heat and stays put. Dont get ANY greases near tha pad linings or the disk.

Nov 30th, 2016, 19:22	#13
Coventry Master Member Last Online: May 17th, 2024 22:00 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: South Wales	Years ago I had a binding rear caliper that I initially took off, cleaned and also cleaned the slide pins. It worked ok for about 1 year then the same problem occured again. Went straight to the local auto factor and bought a new (reconditioned, I assume) caliper. That cured the issue for good: the brake has been fine since. I choose not to rebuild (seals) and now go straight for the new caliper if I've already cleaned the slider pins and found no difference. The cost of a new caliper is slight and replacement is quick.

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