End of the road?

[Ron Kwas]

faust;

I'm sorry to hear of you never-ending woes...to better locate water leaks, I've use water based marker lines placed in strategic places...if and when water runs down through these, they leave a telltale track which can help pinpoint the area of ingress... paper towels can soak up water and do the same thing...

Good Hunting!

[Faust]

Spent the last couple of days pouring water around all the suspect areas... the leaks are 99% gone!

I stripped off all the sealant around the dodgy areas. To be fair, the welding did look pretty good compared to the images posted. Load of Tigerseal seems to have helped. All gromets have also been replaced (again) and also sealed with TS.

However...

The bloody car will not start now!!!

I've got no power at the coil... battery is fully charged, all connections are nice and tight. Engine turns over fine, I've just got no spark.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Damn cars!

[Volvo_133]

Hi Mike,
According to my Haynes manual, coil feed comes from 3rd fuse down, also provides power to handbrake warning light and brake pedal switch for brake lights. Dont blame me though mate, Im quoting Haynes!

[Faust]

Originally Posted by Volvo_133

Hi Mike,
According to my Haynes manual, coil feed comes from 3rd fuse down, also provides power to handbrake warning light and brake pedal switch for brake lights. Dont blame me though mate, Im quoting Haynes!

Cheers mate.

Should've said: all fuses are fine. All other electrics work perfectly. All connections to the coil are OK.

Only thing I've done recently is remove/refit the battery to charge it. Started perfectly before this.

[Volvo_133]

Hi Mike,
Are you points or electronic?

Either way, 1 of your coil low tension connections should have 12v+ when ign switch turned to on. ( Check this with a 12v lamp if you do not have access to a meter.)
I would check this first as this 12v feed wire appears from the loom below the battery. May have been trapped if battery has been removed to charge indoors.

[Faust]

Originally Posted by Volvo_133

Hi Mike,
Are you points or electronic?

Either way, 1 of your coil low tension connections should have 12v+ when ign switch turned to on. ( Check this with a 12v lamp if you do not have access to a meter.)
I would check this first as this 12v feed wire appears from the loom below the battery. May have been trapped if battery has been removed to charge indoors.

Running points & condenser.

With the ignition on, there is no power at either side of the coil (checked with a multi meter).

Amp light is not working (forgot to mention this earlier).

[Volvo_133]

Hi Mike,
Trace the wire from the coil which goes into the loom (between coil and dizzy).
Disconnect from coil.
With your meter on the resistance setting, touch your probes together and check meter reads zero ohms, just to prove your meter reads zero ohms.
Now check from the disconnected coil wire to fuse 3, to check the cable continuity, again looking for zero ohms.
If the cable has a continuity break, then it is quite easy to fit a new cable.

You could fit a temporary cable between these 2 points instead of doing the above checks.
Hopefully the old bXXXXr starts!

[Faust]

Originally Posted by Volvo_133

Hi Mike,
Trace the wire from the coil which goes into the loom (between coil and dizzy).
Disconnect from coil.
With your meter on the resistance setting, touch your probes together and check meter reads zero ohms, just to prove your meter reads zero ohms.
Now check from the disconnected coil wire to fuse 3, to check the cable continuity, again looking for zero ohms.
If the cable has a continuity break, then it is quite easy to fit a new cable.

You could fit a temporary cable between these 2 points instead of doing the above checks.
Hopefully the old bXXXXr starts!

Really appreciate this information. I'll have a go on Saturday (I'm hoping to actually DRIVE my car this year!).

[Ron Kwas]

Faust;

I see this thread is still active, so I thought I'd revisit it...and now I see you're having trouble starting as there is no spark...will your troubles never end...?

In reviewing symptoms, I see you have no Ignition function...and you can't verify Ignition Power at coil...furthermore, perhaps through misinterpretation of Wiring Diagram, OP has given some incorrect info, and I cannot agree with it...sorry!

Note: My following comments apply to an unmodified Points based Ignition System for vintage Volvos fitted with the Ign Sw/Armored Cable/Ign Coil Assembly.

Ignition Coil is supplied by Ignition Switch, and since this node is internal to the Assy (only!, and not externally accessible!), presence of Ignition Coil power cannot be checked directly...it can however be verified indirectly (statically) with a voltmeter, by checking the Points to Ign Coil node for 12V, while Ignition Switch is ON, and Points are open (remove Distributor Cap to allow visual check of Points condition!).

Alternately, and next, a more comprehensive functional check of Ignition Coil can be performed (also with Points open), by turning Ign Sw ON, then shorting and unshorting across Points repetitively (with for instance a screwdriver), while watching for a Hi-V spark from Ign Coil (output wire from center terminal of Ign Coil removed from Dist Cap and placed near Chassis to make a spark-gap).

If Hi-V occurs every time connection is unshorted, Ign Coil function is fine...Ignition System should be reassembled normally, except, one Sparkplug Wire disconnected at Sparkplug and again, placed near Chassis with a spark-gap, Sparks should be evident, with Ign Sw ON, and Starter activated. Ignition Function thusly (dynamically) checked, Ign Sys can be fully restored to normal configuration, and Starting attempts can be made.

Additional info: http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignitio...rmored%20Cable

Finally, non-functioning of AMP Indicator is a separate issue...I suggest you get engine started, then you can move on to sorting this...

Cheers and Good Hunting!

[Faust]

Thanks for the help Ron… the problems seem never ending at the moment and it's getting me down a bit, but I'll get there in the end.

I didn't know about checking for power with the points open - I'll try that on Saturday as well. Only mentioned the AMP light as I wondered if it might be connected to the lack of spark somehow (electrics are a bit of a dark art as far as I'm concerned).