1800: Universal Heater Control Valve

[Phid]

I bought the control valve off ebay. The issue I have with either this one or the Amazon/E-type one is that one of (or both of in the case of the latter) the hose connections are vertical. Given the restricted space in the P1800, a tight hose elbow may foul on the underside of the bonnet.

I have 2 choices:

1. Try an elbow and see if there is sufficient space - cursory measurements suggest it will be very tight. I could a little off the top of the vertical but would lose the lip (albeit the standard P1800 valve has no lips).

2. I could solder or braze the top of the old knackered P1800 valve onto the valve I've bought so it broadly replicates a standard P1800 valve. See picture.

I wonder if anyone has any experience or advice on either of these?

Thanks
Philip

[Derek UK]

If you're prepared to do a bit of bench work it should be possible to transfer the 1800 style copper pipes over to one of the eBay Jag ones. Beware that the tabs on the copper pipe are rather frail and not designed to be unbent after the valve is put together. The steel ones holding the box part onto the plate are easier. All a bit fiddly, but doable. As noted there, the Jag one does have the pipes at 180º to the Amazon ones. This can be changed if you are fitting one to an Amazon but guess it would work like that. The hoses might need a bit of work though.
See here, that's me there too. I moved the pipe 90º for my Saab 96.

http://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/t...r,valve,repair

[Ron Kwas]

Guys;

I am following this thread with interest...I might suggest that Philip solder on a simple copper elbow (1/2" pipe which fits 5/8"ID heater hose perfectly) onto the vertical of the valve, which will give you the side-departure you're looking for (similar to the oe 1800 valve), and not that complicated part off the 1800 valve itself (which might itself desolder and fall apart when you heat it to solder it).

Cheers

Edit: Comment after looking at Derek's SAAB HVC repair link...that Valve sure looks like a Ranco H16 (the very same one used on Volvos!) but with a 90 deg turn in the copper part! See: http://www.sw-em.com/Heater_Control_Valve.htm

[CLIVERALLY]

I am watching this thread as well to future proof

[123GT-AMAZON]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

If you're prepared to do a bit of bench work it should be possible to transfer the 1800 style copper pipes over to one of the eBay Jag ones. Beware that the tabs on the copper pipe are rather frail and not designed to be unbent after the valve is put together. The steel ones holding the box part onto the plate are easier. All a bit fiddly, but doable. As noted there, the Jag one does have the pipes at 180º to the Amazon ones. This can be changed if you are fitting one to an Amazon but guess it would work like that. The hoses might need a bit of work though.
See here, that's me there too. I moved the pipe 90º for my Saab 96.

http://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/t...r,valve,repair

That is a very nice thread made for a good read and interesting to know what other cars had this fitted to great stuff .

I'm following this with great interest as I fit theses a rather lot , so nice to give Us all options and some beer money left over

Kind regards
Robert.w

[Phid]

Well it's been a little while but I finally got around to fitting the control valve. For the cable to operate the valve I had to reverse the direction of the horizontal hose connection. This involved forcing back the 4 tabs that hold the upright onto the top of the unit, removing and refitting. I will attach a couple of pictures to demonstrate when my computer says yes.

It looks tidy enough to me - not stock but saved me nearly £200. The good news is that the unit works fine. The bad news is that after being repaired twice (by the same company) the matrix still leaks. A bit frustrating as they told me both times it will be fine.

[Phid]

Pictures...