General: 1968 US Combi Being Outfitted with Vintage Performance Parts

[960Exec]

Love this and can't wait to read more about your progress.

[Vintagewrench]

Originally Posted by 960Exec

Love this and can't wait to read more about your progress.

Thanks 960 Exec. It looks like it MAY HAVE an adopted little brother soon that is a twin to the car in the photo above come and live with it here and keep it company? I should know if it is going to happen in a couple of days.

[Vintagewrench]

UPDATE - I decided to pass on the 1800s after getting large-sized high res photos of the car where the extent of the rust out and bubbles that are covering future rust out became apparent.

Back on the search for a no rust ever car.

[Andy the Aussie]

Originally Posted by Vintagewrench

).

loving this thread.....

but I have to say.... hats off to the workshop style, especially the period correct chain hoist

anyway

Updates ?

[tdz840]

Its at that point you think- hmmm gearbox does need to come off and where are my mates when i need them

[Vintagewrench]

Originally Posted by Andy the Aussie

loving this thread.....

but I have to say.... hats off to the workshop style, especially the period correct chain hoist

Thanks, that chain hoist has also been used at the races on the Bonneville Salt Flats and on the Muroc Dry Lake.

[Vintagewrench]

The engine rebuild on the "Georgia Peach" 1968 122s B18 w/a Judson supercharger is starting to come together. Specially designed and machined CP-Carrillo forged pistons arrived last week that have: a zero deck height, an offset pin, and machined sides and interior for lightness. With a Cometic head gasket, the combustion chamber will have a .032-inch squish band which should be optimal.

All of the stock B18 and B20 engines thru to 1975 I have measured w/the correct pistons in them have as large as a .070-inch squish band. Tightening the band up to .030-.035 - inch by using the right thickness head gasket will add up to 7 to 8% more h.p. and allow the ignition timing to be advanced for even more power without knocking on the same octane fuel.

After I ridgid hone the block to finished bore size, clean it, and install new cam bearings, core plugs, and wrist pin bushings in the rods, the bottom end can go back together.

Also been busy working on the head, valves, and machining new conversion guides for B20 valves which have smaller stems. Have lightened the valve heads and swirl polished them and stems, and cut the B20 intake valve heads down to 41MM with is larger than the 40MM B18 intake valve heads. Still need to relieve the head, machine and install valve seats and do some very minor porting. The head is actually taking more time to do than the complete bottom end, but that is how it goes with many of the vintage racing engines that pass thru the shop.

[tdz840]

Shiny!
Did you get the crowns ceramic coated?
Would be interested in the cost and contact details for these.
Customs liable to kill the idea but still interested
Russ

[Vintagewrench]

Originally Posted by tdz840

Shiny!
Did you get the crowns ceramic coated?
Would be interested in the cost and contact details for these.
Customs liable to kill the idea but still interested
Russ

No, they are as machined and CP-Carillo does offer ceramic coasting at an extra cost. The Company's pistons are used by most all high-level motor sports racing teams here in the US, but their products are priced accordingly.

I use them on customers vintage racing engines if possible and my own cars because of the engine shop discount I get. They are also the only forged piston manufacturer here with forging blanks long enough to make a zero deck height Volvo piston which when used w/a thin .032 multi layer steel Cometic head gasket allows the Volvo "squish band" combustion camber to work better than it did when new and produce more power and less detonation.

Check out this video to learn more:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Wt-jdHqsv4

[Vintagewrench]

Have finished machining the B18 cast iron conversion guides (bronze is not needed in this application, and really is only necessary for racing applications) to be used with B20 valves which have .312-inch (5/16″) diameter stems that are hard chromed and smaller than the original .343-inch (11/32″) stems for improved air flow. The end of the intake guides have also been tapered for better airflow through the port. The top end of the guides were machined for modern valve seals. Valves with chrome-plate stems and finely machined guide id's with a honed finish will last a very long time in street and highway use.

The new B20 exhaust and intake valves are in the center of the photo above shown in comparison to the B18 guides and valves on the left and the right. The dark spots near the valve head will disappear after a second blending angle is cut on the back side of the head for improved flow, after the new valve seats have been established in the head.

Both sides of the valve heads and the end of the stem where it meets the head have been lightened somewhat (compare them to an untouched valve below) by machining the two sides in the lathe and then swirl polishing the backside of the head. The 42MM B20 intake valve heads have been turned down to 41MM which is larger than the original 40MM B18 intake valve heads. B18 and B20 exhaust valve heads are both the same size.

Next up, install the guides in the head and machine and press in exhaust valve seats, and cut larger intake valve seats. And finally, relieve the combustion chambers, and do some very minor porting behind the valve seats.

Delete the DOT in the following link and replace it with a period to learn more about what was involved and view pictures of how the guides were machined @ http://theoldmotorDOTcom/?p=165294