P3 V70 Front wheel bearing/hub replacement...DIY tips?

[pierremcalpine]

Hi,
Both of my front hubs have too much lateral run-out which I'm now noticing when I brake hard. I verified that both the discs AND the hubs are out of tolerance so going to replace them both.

I've watched a few videos online and it looks like I'm in for some pounding (literally). Pressing out seems to be best accomplished by slamming the hub assy right out with a sledge while the spindle sits on some 2x4's or in a vice. Re-installation calls for a press but I'm wondering if I could get away with using a wheal bearing removal kit rented from my local Partsource. I did not see any videos using a slide hammer for removal. I'm guessing it's in there too tight...?

Has anyone one here done this job? if so, any tips for DIY'ing?

[volvoid]

take hub and bearing to local garage, give them a few quid to press it out+in for you using their big press. Forget diy without suitable tool.

[Tatsfield]

"pounding" is a very bad idea. It is the usual reason why bearings put in by incompetent garages fail early. The temptation to hit something with a heavy hammer has to be resisted!

[green van man]

I am in the pounding camp.
If the unit is adequately supported the shock load from a hammer blow can easily equal a 40 ton press and shock loading is far more effective at getting things moving than steady pressure.

I replace the wheel bearings on my caravan every 2 years, not because they are worn but because they pit with standing. I have taken the route of cheap bearings and change regularly rather than expensive bearings that will pit in 4 years anyway.

To this end I had mandrils made up and a support tube. Removal mandril acts on the centre of the race but as it's going in the bin I don't care. Beat the bearing out and use the refitting mandril which acts on the outer race only to tap the new in.

A friend took his v70 hub assembly to a garage to have bearings pressed out. Huge pressure and when it finally gave the assembly flew across the room landing on the floor. Dependant upon how the unit is supported other damage can easily be done to it by such pressure.
This is why I support on a tube under the bearing to be removed, support on the housing and twisting, misshaping is almost inevitable.

Paul.

[Montana]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

Hi,
Both of my front hubs have too much lateral run-out which I'm now noticing when I brake hard. I verified that both the discs AND the hubs are out of tolerance so going to replace them both.

I've watched a few videos online and it looks like I'm in for some pounding (literally). Pressing out seems to be best accomplished by slamming the hub assy right out with a sledge while the spindle sits on some 2x4's or in a vice. Re-installation calls for a press but I'm wondering if I could get away with using a wheal bearing removal kit rented from my local Partsource. I did not see any videos using a slide hammer for removal. I'm guessing it's in there too tight...?

Has anyone one here done this job? if so, any tips for DIY'ing?

I am about to embark on this same task this weekend on my V50 - i know the Youtube vid you are referring to with the use of the sledgehammer, this is only for removal and seems effective.

However if you dont have a press to put it back in , then i would forget DIY - I have use of a press but a little nervous as i have never done it before.

[Montana]

Originally Posted by green van man

I am in the pounding camp.
If the unit is adequately supported the shock load from a hammer blow can easily equal a 40 ton press and shock loading is far more effective at getting things moving than steady pressure.

I replace the wheel bearings on my caravan every 2 years, not because they are worn but because they pit with standing. I have taken the route of cheap bearings and change regularly rather than expensive bearings that will pit in 4 years anyway.

To this end I had mandrils made up and a support tube. Removal mandril acts on the centre of the race but as it's going in the bin I don't care. Beat the bearing out and use the refitting mandril which acts on the outer race only to tap the new in.

A friend took his v70 hub assembly to a garage to have bearings pressed out. Huge pressure and when it finally gave the assembly flew across the room landing on the floor. Dependant upon how the unit is supported other damage can easily be done to it by such pressure.
This is why I support on a tube under the bearing to be removed, support on the housing and twisting, misshaping is almost inevitable.

Paul.

Interesting, so say the hub is clamped in the vice, you have a tube under the hub, supporting the face of the hub/bearing - then smack it from above?

When refitting - you use a socket (your homemade device) and tab back in with a hammer? No press?

[pierremcalpine]

As far as re-fitting, there are several videos out there showing that you can do it pretty effectively with some cups/bearing press kit (i.e. no need for a shop press). Each one recommends putting the bearing/hub assy in the freezer overnight to assist with pressing in. That looks easy enough if you have a man-sized bearing press kit.

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by Montana

I am about to embark on this same task this weekend on my V50 - i know the Youtube vid you are referring to with the use of the sledgehammer, this is only for removal and seems effective.

However if you dont have a press to put it back in , then i would forget DIY - I have use of a press but a little nervous as i have never done it before.

Please keep us posted, will ya?
I've since watched several videos where removal is done with a slide-hammer...looks do-able. Sounds like at least a 10lb slide hammer is required. In addition, I've got two old brake discs sitting around that I'm planning to add for additional weight.

Montana are you thinking of attempting removal with a slide hammer or are you going to remove the whole spindle and just pound?

[green van man]

Originally Posted by Montana

Interesting, so say the hub is clamped in the vice, you have a tube under the hub, supporting the face of the hub/bearing - then smack it from above?

When refitting - you use a socket (your homemade device) and tab back in with a hammer? No press?

Correct.
To make things easier I usually spray some WD 40 over the hub and bearing but tap it in with a hammer.

Similarly I change universal joints with a hammer, never dropped a needle yet, when I tried it in a vice dropped a needle and snapped it rendering the joint scrap.
Provided the fitting force is applied to the outer race of the bearing only how it is fitted is a bit of a mute point, hammer or press matters not.

Ford rear axle used to have the wheel bearing mounted on the half shaft and retained by an interference ring. I changed those by chiseling the ring off and leave ring the bearing off, refitting was by supporting the shaft on a solid block and using the tube of a porta power to hammer bearing and retaining ring on to the shaft until it rang, thus confirming it was properly seated.

The hammer is a much under rated tool.

Paul.

[Semnoz]

I might be wrong here, but I'm reading the words 'car hub bearing, WD40 and hammer/slide-hammer' all in the same sentence and laughing....

I've only replaced front hub bearings twice (old Escort and Renault Clio) and it definitely wasn't a hammer job. I bought a 10 ton hydraulic press and a set of bearing drivers (thick metal discs) and the force required to get the old bearing out was immense, and as stated, when it gives, it sounds like the whole hub has exploded. It was vital to mount the hub firmly so that the bearing was being pushed out/in parallel to it's seating.

I can only imagine it's even harder on a V70, but I won't be afraid of doing it, although most of the V70 bearings seem like they'll last forever.