940 LPT 2.3 problems starting in damp

[haymitch]

That's good advice - thanks! I went for the home cover on the breakdown cover so that is an option - I'm just conscious that getting more handy with these things will make my life a lot easier! The good breakdown cover was insurance against my poor spannering skills!

[haymitch]

Update: The breakdown service managed to get the alternator belt replaced on Tuesday evening using the old belt I mentioned from the boot as a temporary stopgap.

I'm driving the vehicle to the garage tomorrow where I'll ask them to see if there's an underlying cause for the belt to come off (other than an old belt). I reckon I'll have problems getting hold of the OEM belts at short notice, but I may come back myself later and replace the belts with OEM ones

Fingers crossed that between the meths and the replaced sensor the car starts first time tomorrow morning

[Dirty Rooster]

If it was the belt all along that's really great news.
A slipping belt can cause a low charge from the alternator that in turn can cause all sorts of bother.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by haymitch

Update: The breakdown service managed to get the alternator belt replaced on Tuesday evening using the old belt I mentioned from the boot as a temporary stopgap.

I'm driving the vehicle to the garage tomorrow where I'll ask them to see if there's an underlying cause for the belt to come off (other than an old belt). I reckon I'll have problems getting hold of the OEM belts at short notice, but I may come back myself later and replace the belts with OEM ones

Fingers crossed that between the meths and the replaced sensor the car starts first time tomorrow morning

Have you driven it since adding the meths? I've just renewed the CTS on mine because of lumpy running when hot and warming up (no cold start problem because of the sensor, just flat spots) and it's made life a lot better.

Do you know if the garage reset the fault code memory after renewing the sensor?

Should be able to get belts fairly easily from Volvo but not sure where the Volvo dealer would be in Cambridge. I normally go to Hylton Gott just outside Downham Market. Might be worth a phone call there to see if they have them, they're usually happy to post small/light parts. Speak to Paul in the Parts Dept 01366 383352 (tell him a bloke with a Volvo, a Rover but no combine harvester recommended him and the garage) and see what he comes up with.

[haymitch]

Thanks for the suggestion. Marshall Volvo are the main place to get parts round here I think, but I don't what they're like to deal with.

I took the car for a 60 mile drive after I added the meths (during which the drive belt came off). I've not driven it since. It'll be a good test tomorrow morning whether the car starts or not. It seemed better the few times I started it in the evening when the spare belt was being fitted - not tested it in the cold yet though.

The garage didn't clear the codes as they weren't aware that the car has an odb port. Why do you ask? The garage said that they did manual tests to diagnose the sensor was the problem, but said they could only be so sure because they couldn't reader the codes. They recommended Kings of Witcham, an ex Volvo dealer nearby, that would still have the diagnostic equipment if I continue to have problems.

I've bought a code reader of loki_the_glt on this forum (which arrived after my visit to the garage), so I can also try to read the codes off this now. Currently looking for the codes on the FAQ pages!

[Laird Scooby]

If memory serves, it's fuse #1 (or maybe #11, can't remember now) to erase the codes from the ECU - pull the fuse for 30 seconds or so then refit.

The OBD port can only be read by either Volvos reader or the Loki special, a generic OBD-II code reader won't read it as far as i'm aware.

It's great fun finding Kings of Witcham - down a narrow road off the main A142. Long time since i went there but coming from Ely, turn right at Witcham Toll and follow your nose - i think!

The reason i asked if they cleared the codes is because without clearing them, the ECU will still be in Limp Mode. They need clearing so the ECU can relearn the correct fuel trims etc without being in Limp Mode.

[haymitch]

Could someone help me with this problem again please? Sadly it has reoccurred

A few months ago I had the coolant temperature sensor changed on my Volvo 940 and also tried putting some meths in the tank. The car had been better since then.

The car has the same symptoms. The car sounds like it's going to start, splutters if you put the foot on the accelerator pedal but doesn't get going. I managed to get myself home yesterday by using some starter fluid, but same problem again. The strange this is that the weather hasn't been very cold this week. Once the car has had a good run it can be started again without a problem.

I have tried reading the codes using Loki's special code reader, but there are no codes coming through.

I think the new coolant temperature sensor may have failed again because I've read on these forums that there are some low quality sensors around and that coolant temperature sensors can fail without registering any codes. Also, I thought the following might be worth trying:

- Cleaning the MAF sensor
- Try some more methylated spirts in the fuel tank, but I have tried this before.
- Clean the throttle body
- Replace the fuel filter

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by haymitch

Could someone help me with this problem again please? Sadly it has reoccurred

A few months ago I had the coolant temperature sensor changed on my Volvo 940 and also tried putting some meths in the tank. The car had been better since then.

The car has the same symptoms. The car sounds like it's going to start, splutters if you put the foot on the accelerator pedal but doesn't get going. I managed to get myself home yesterday by using some starter fluid, but same problem again. The strange this is that the weather hasn't been very cold this week. Once the car has had a good run it can be started again without a problem.

I have tried reading the codes using Loki's special code reader, but there are no codes coming through.

I think the new coolant temperature sensor may have failed again because I've read on these forums that there are some low quality sensors around and that coolant temperature sensors can fail without registering any codes. Also, I thought the following might be worth trying:

- Cleaning the MAF sensor
- Try some more methylated spirts in the fuel tank, but I have tried this before.
- Clean the throttle body
- Replace the fuel filter

This sort of suggests a fault elsewhere - can you hear the fuel pumps running just after releasing the key when trying to start it? You should hear them hum for a couple of seconds after letting go of the key.

[haymitch]

I went and gave this a try. I could hear the pumps running after letting go of the key - a sound a bit like an extractor fan. So it looks like the fuel pumps are fine?

fyi, the fuel pump relay was replaced in June 2017. I'm guessing if this had gone again then I wouldn't hear the fuel pump noise?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by haymitch

I went and gave this a try. I could hear the pumps running after letting go of the key - a sound a bit like an extractor fan. So it looks like the fuel pumps are fine?

fyi, the fuel pump relay was replaced in June 2017. I'm guessing if this had gone again then I wouldn't hear the fuel pump noise?

I've not heard that description before but it fits and yes.

I'm seriously wondering if you've got a loose HT lead or worse still (harder to find) a broken one that is causing this.