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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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some problems.....Views : 1270 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 27th, 2007, 21:18 | #1 |
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Last Online: May 4th, 2011 14:29
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Location: Derby
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some problems.....
hi there, have been lurking for a whie, am a bit shy lol........well anyway ive recently got myself a 1997 S40 T4 its got about 100,000 on the clock and got a few niggles that im hoping you might be able to help with.
1. got an annoying rattle when you lift off the accelerator, had a look round and most likely thing is the wastegate arm, is this easy to tighten up cant seem to find it in my haynes book. 2. got a knock coming from front right hand side mostly when pulling off, thinking its probably an engine mount, are these expensive to get done? 3. the clutch seems very sharp, is this normal on T4's? 4. what oil is best to use? been reading that fully synthetic is best for the turbo, but from the service history its usually had magnatec. what do you guys (and gals) use? 5. bought some new ignition leads but think i was given the wrong ones as two of the ones on my car have got the coils fitted, so does this mean you have to get new coils as well? that should do for starters lol, you'll have to forgive me though 'cos i'm not very mechanically minded (as you can probably tell lol). i can handle the simple things but dont really know that much. thanks for your help in advace p.s. anyone got any hints on quieting squeeky plastics? |
Jun 27th, 2007, 21:56 | #2 |
My nipper said!
Last Online: Aug 1st, 2022 20:15
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Can only shed some light on point 2 (possibly). Try searching for knocking noise, and read my how-to. It may be something else, but it's worth a try.
Hope this helps. Morphinemitt
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Jun 27th, 2007, 22:01 | #3 |
and Craig!
Last Online: Apr 1st, 2024 06:25
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Manchester
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Hi Paul!
We use fully synthetic oil. The nice man at the garage said it was for the best! I can trust him before anyone says anything! I am SWMBO!! haha |
Jun 27th, 2007, 22:16 | #4 |
2001 V40 T4
Last Online: Jan 4th, 2012 15:23
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Bath
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My T4 has problems 1 & 2 also. Does the rattle dissapear when you depress the clutch pedal? mine does and a mechanic mate of mine says its the clutch release bearing.
As for the knocking i've changed the only mount that any real play could be seen in but its still there. |
Jun 27th, 2007, 22:47 | #5 |
Master Member
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1./ Can't help with this one, i have the haynes, if you get no joy through the forum PM me and i'll take a look and send you the data..
2./ Take a good look around the front suspension, either lower arm bushes, loose wheel nuts (its been done...), or loose drive shaft to hub... Check this right away as the longer you leave it the more damage / wear could be done... 3./ Whats the history of the clutch, has it ever had new plates / basket etc...Let us know and w can advise further. As i understand it a severe clclutch (i.e. pick up) is not normal on standard application. (at least the ones i've driven haven't been). 4./ Check you manual for the correct grade, for general suggest 5w30 fully synthetic, or if the engie is low lieage in good conditin 0w40. Mobil 1 has a great pedigree, but eveyone has their own preferences. Be sure to change it at service schedule and more often if you race the engine / use it for high rpm for long periods.. synthetic looses its properties like any oil through use, just typically lasts a little longer and has better performance through out its life. 5./ Re you leads, if the leads are bonded / one piece with the coils then yes you will need to replace as set. Otherwise not. 6./ Re squeaking platics, if is plastic to plastic you can use fabric tape between the two faces e.g. center console facia panels, if its around a fixing point / screw you can put silicon onthe mating faces before tightening the fixing... (or a dab or grease), and in general retighten all you fixing screws as squeaks are from movement and parts move more when not secured tightly.... Hope all this helps... By the way the SEARCH function is good onthis forum and may give you answers quicker than a post & waiting for a reply... |
Jun 27th, 2007, 23:42 | #6 |
Speed freak
Last Online: Apr 3rd, 2020 22:04
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Yorkshire
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1, yeah sounds like wastegate arm to me chattering when you lift off throttle, yeah it can be tighten up abit to stop it, altho not to much,
2, Drivers side engine mount knocking, common problem, 3, The clutchs are quiet sharpe and after 100k it will be well bedded in, 4, Synthetic is best stuff to use, heard the halfords own brand stuff is ment to be best for price, think its 5w30 fully synthetic in a purply bottle, 5, If the leads and coils are ok leave then alone, mine have done 132k and there fine, just make sure the plugs are ok as the T4's tend to burn standard plugs out well before they are due to be changed, there due every 30k, i tend to do them every 15k, plastic squeeks, i find interior polish stuff best stuff to cure squeeks, silicon based stuff in spray cans
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Jun 28th, 2007, 10:06 | #7 |
Bostin !!!
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mornin
the rattle, does it go if you press the clutch pedal down ?? |
Jun 28th, 2007, 13:02 | #8 |
Swedish Cabbage
Last Online: Jun 1st, 2022 12:36
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Portsmouth
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1. Sounds like the wastegate arm to me - quite a common problem. Just lean over the back of the engine, take off the top heatshield and you will see the wastegate. Slacken the lock nut on the arm, pull out the split pin, pop off the arm. Now twist the end of arm clockwise to tighten - go one thread at a time. Reverse the instructions. Oh, its a good idea to let the turbo cool down before you touch it!
2. Drivers side engine mount near the cam belt. Its a common problem. 3. Yep, mine was even with 100k on it (as is my friends 100k+ T4) 4. If its been run on mineral oil, or semi synth for 100k, it might be worth sticking to that. Running fully synth might cause it to smoke and burn oil. By all means try it though, as fully synth is always best 5. You've got the wrong ones. You need 2 plug wires and 2 coil packs. Coils are about £40-£50 each mind... Andy P
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Jun 30th, 2007, 13:17 | #9 |
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Last Online: May 4th, 2011 14:29
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Location: Derby
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thanks for all your help left me with plenty to go on
with regard to the rattle the clutch doesnt really make any difference, when the car is stationary and out of gear if you rev the engine, as the revs drops it rattles. off down halfords now to get sum fully synthetic, just hope it agrees with my car lol. thanks again paul |
Aug 17th, 2007, 20:08 | #10 | |
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Last Online: Jun 20th, 2009 23:53
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Location: Sheffield
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Quote:
Tempted to try the tightening method Andy P refers to before going down that route though! |
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