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New 343 1.7 -86 owner and already problems

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Old Dec 23rd, 2019, 19:37   #1
volvoBlack
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Default New 343 1.7 -86 owner and already problems

So I bought a -86 good conditioned 343 with 1.7 engine, 5 speed gearbox. Has 150 000 km on clock.

It had nice idle and all, no splutters. Hard to start though when warm, seems to not get petrol. But it has new petrol pump fitted last summer.

But after I bought it, 500 meters and it stalled. Pulled choke and got 200 meters, it died again. It had stood for about 6 months, with petrol tank almost empty so I got it towed to gas station. And filled it. But after that, same thing. it will die if I push accelerator even to halfway. pumping gas and playing with choke got me home ( last mile with only choke pulled full out, using it as cruise control). If I touched to accelerator, it would die.

So now what would be the main cause for this and what parts should I get? This will be my daily driver so I need it to be reliable.

BTW tried to register to volvo300mania but I can't reply to the idiotic not bot question. It asks for standard or optional equipment on 300 series, and every sensible answer is wrong (seatbelts, metallic paint, maybe fog lights and tow bar).

Last edited by volvoBlack; Dec 23rd, 2019 at 19:40. Reason: add info
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Old Dec 23rd, 2019, 22:33   #2
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I would say its likely the carb needs a good clean out

To register on the forum drag the wrong answers to the not available box on the right
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Old Dec 23rd, 2019, 22:43   #3
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I would say its likely the carb needs a good clean out

To register on the forum drag the wrong answers to the not available box on the right
Thank you for the tip, I of course did that, But I can't find anywhere what where the options on the 300 series. So I dragged seast belts. wrong. Seatbelts, tow bar, wrong. seat belts, towbar, metallic paint wrong. Then it said I can't try anymore.

What is the correct answer to that? what were the options?

Regarding the carb cleaning, is there any info about that, I have a friend who fixed my 740 that did not run right by cleaning the carb. I think he could do the job, but is there somethings that should be done / not be done, to not make the problem worse?
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Old Dec 27th, 2019, 12:24   #4
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Before that, check the anti run-on solenoid. It is fitted to Weber carbs and, as the name suggests, cuts off fuel supply when the ignition is turned off to prevent dieseling.

I used to wire a hidden switch under the dashboard to this fellow - the symptoms are identical to those you describe - the car runs until the carb bowl is empty then stalls. As you crank it it fill again then runs out just as quickly.
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Old Dec 31st, 2019, 16:05   #5
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1.7s are rarely reliable. You can probably get it working with a full carb rebuild done by an expert, and/or solve any other problems, but I found it was a losing battle. The choking at junctions because of oil in the distributor killed the 1.7 for me.

Problems that come to mind are the carb floats become porous and sink, and the carb base can leak.

If you want a reliable 300 get a 1.4 or a 360.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2020, 22:58   #6
volvoBlack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Harding View Post
Before that, check the anti run-on solenoid. It is fitted to Weber carbs and, as the name suggests, cuts off fuel supply when the ignition is turned off to prevent dieseling.

I used to wire a hidden switch under the dashboard to this fellow - the symptoms are identical to those you describe - the car runs until the carb bowl is empty then stalls. As you crank it it fill again then runs out just as quickly.
Should this have 12 volts always, when ignition is on? Is it like a valve that is closed when no volts, and open when 12 volts?

I can check this tomorrow. Does this have a fuse, I can check that too.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2020, 18:03   #7
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Should this have 12 volts always, when ignition is on? Is it like a valve that is closed when no volts, and open when 12 volts?

I can check this tomorrow. Does this have a fuse, I can check that too.
So got around checking this today. The solenoid clicks when removing and inserting number 10 fuse. So it is ok, i think.

My friend should clean the carb and check if there is something wrong with the carb on monday. One thing, I noticed that Lada 2107 from 1986 had Solex carb. It is called Daaz Solex. It looks a lot like the 28-34 Z10. What do you think, is it the same carb? would parts from that carb fit this? Because we got a Lada dealer here in Finland. The carb is this:



They have really cheap parts for these carbs.

Float: http://www.mansemotors.fi/kaasuttimen-koho-solex-axtec

Repair kit: http://www.mansemotors.fi/kaasuttime...rja-solex-1300

They also have the washer plate between carb and intake manifold.
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Old Jan 9th, 2020, 18:19   #8
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So my mechanic change carb seal, intake seal, new ignition parts, and all oils. But after engine warms up, it starts to cut out .

He made a video of the problem:

https://youtu.be/lA_QDhMAarQ


So what to do now, any thoughts? Is the intake/exhaust manifold completely gone? And if so, any1 here have a replacement, which is ok?
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Old Jan 22nd, 2020, 18:59   #9
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I think there is a thick seal kit for the carb base. Maybe problems with manifold-head seal aswell. Take it out and check for flatness. Make sure its tightened evenly.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2020, 23:31   #10
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340 series suffered from a blocked fuel tank pickup filter. Remove the tank sender and pickup and if a filter is fitted remove it and discard. Check to see if it has a inline filter in the engine bay and what ever it looks like replace it. Also the Black vapor separator has been known to get blocked as well check the flow though that as well.
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