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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Any Advice?Views : 13687 Replies : 248Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 19th, 2020, 22:53 | #11 |
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Good luck in your quest.
Rust is important including as you mention investment, appreciation, re-sale value. Later 240s have better anti rust protection. Other people will be able to advise about that and about where to look for rust. You mention the estate....light rust below the tailgate behind the rear bumper indicates rust out of sight and not cheap to fix. If he learns mechanics on a 240, that will impart good fundamental skills. The design is old now. Does he want to learn newer design mechanics instead? Few garages know the wrinkles of working on 240s now. There's a lot of helpful knowledge in this forum. But some threads go on for ever before hopefully reaching a result. Sometimes the right people aren't around. Sometimes methodical people with knowledge make wrong assumptions. Some spares can take time to obtain. The k jet by the way has an inlet manifold designed to stand a mug of tea or coffee on, and a reputation for reliability, and avoids the diagnosis problems of jetronic. My jetronic estate works for me. Brakes issues can be elusive. Start by following the very specific 240 bleeding instructions. Before doing anything significant to a 240, search this forum, and ASK. Good luck. |
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Jan 19th, 2020, 22:54 | #12 |
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How about the 'A' reg estate currently advertised in these forums. They don't come much cheaper, and it would appear to have considerable potential. Sort the MOT and improve as you go along. No connection with the seller, but the fact he's a forum member must be preferable to buying an unknown car off the 'net. Given what good examples make nowadays, you could do a lot worse.
Regards, John.
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Jan 19th, 2020, 23:02 | #13 | |
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Agreed. . |
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Jan 19th, 2020, 23:27 | #14 | |
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As for diagnosis, the K-jet Vs the later L-jet, LH-Jet etc is very much swings and roundabouts. Some faults are easier to diagnose on the K-Jetronic and others are easier on the L or LH-Jetronic if you can use a multimeter and know what to look for and where. Some faults get a bit more involved such as ECUs but they seem to be forming a failure pattern lately. As you put it, your Jetronic (K or L/LH?) estate works for you - each to their own, both will give valuable knowledge to anyoen starting out "in the game" and if the young lad does choose to go into automotive engineering, anything he lerns on either will rpovide good grounding for leanring about the modern stuff. After all, the primary basic function of a 4-stroke engine is suck, squeeze, bang, blow. It's the various systems around the engine that facilitate that, whether it's the cam timing, crankshaft motion, ignition or exhaust system. They all work together to make the engine run and once you get your head round that and how one can effect another, you've pretty much got it sussed, whether it's carb, injection, petrol diesel or whatever else. That's a very simplistic way of describing it but if you break down each system into smaller, manageable parts to learn, you can understand it all.
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Jan 19th, 2020, 23:33 | #15 | |
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https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=302553
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Jan 19th, 2020, 23:53 | #16 | |
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Jan 20th, 2020, 20:24 | #17 | |
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I saw the DL advertised on here but we've spoken about it and it's pretty clear that we need to get something we can sit in and drive home and hopefully, having watched this evening's Car SOS (Rover P6) has solid bodywork. I'd rather we spend the extra and get something that's up and going properly so he can work to improve things rather than rebuild, if we can get it at the right price. That said, the market's not exactly flooded with them at the moment, so we'll have to see what comes up - though he's clear it needs to be petrol and manual (I loved my auto, but clearly he knows better). It's all quite complex when you come to this new - I've just been reading the Wikipedia entry on the 240, too many variables and I've found your thoughts far more helpful in trying to narrow things down. Thanks all. C |
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Jan 20th, 2020, 21:40 | #18 | |
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If you need any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan. |
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Jan 21st, 2020, 08:54 | #19 | |
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https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=302227 It ticks many of your boxes as far as i can tell but it is auto. However on the year it was made, i'm fairly sure it will have the ZF 4-speed (with overdrive 4th and Torque Converter Lock-up) so economy and performance will be good, especially with the B230E under the bonnet. It seems to be in relatively good order throughout with a few bits needing some TLC/fettling to improve it but still with plenty of scope for a young enthusiast to "make it his". I noted your comments that your lad said it had to be manual but has he ever driven an auto? Come to that, has he driven a manual? The clutches tend to be pretty heavy in the 240 models and compared to the modern stuff that he's likely to learn to drive in, might be incredibly heavy. I had my first auto when i was 18 and after that, first choice was always an auto. Long time ago now, to give you a rough idea it was a 12 year old 144DL auto so i've had a long association with automatics. In a market that isn't over-run with 240s of any description, i'd say don't knock it until you've tried it! If he really doesn't like/can't get on with the auto box, you could always find the parts neessary to convert to manual if you have a good base car.
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Jan 21st, 2020, 09:50 | #20 |
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I agree absolutely with 'L.S.' regarding autos. Opinions differ, often fiercely (!), but I personally feel that these cars really suit automatic tranmission.
Like 'L.S.', I've had both in my time, but much prefer autos - I also had a 145DL Auto from 1972 when it was 12 years old, followed by 2's, 7's and a 9 series car, and currently a V70 - all autos! My one regret was that the 3 series cars were not available with a 'conventional' automatic - only a CVT on the basic 1.4 models. Would have loved one on the 1.7 GLE and 2.0 litre GL versions that I once owned. Having said that, if it has to be a manual try and get one fitted with an overdrive - I've had two, a 145DL and a 245GLT. In my view they were nicer to drive than those without - quieter and more refined at speed, and 10 - 12% more more economical overall when driven like for like. Regards, John.
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