240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[loki_the_glt]

I think that the only way to re-use the driving lamps is to replace the existing headlamps and grille with one from a DL model that uses the narrower headlamps and wider grille; I have seen the Hella grille I mentioned on cars with the 7" round lamps. There might be a photo from a Volvo National of a French(?) LHD 242GT with the grille somewhere on the web...

Just googled "Volvo 242GT" and got a load of images of both 12"-to-the-foot and 1:43 ones:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=...AAAAAdAAAAABAP

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...tOqjn5m9-VUV2f

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Dippydog

While contributing nothing useful to this thread I'm loving reading this sympathetic recommissioning.It's coming on really well and looking good!From a personal taste point of view I think if it could be done without damage I'd "lose" the Volvo badging from the mirror backs,but that's just me.

Thank you, those were kind words.

I agree about the mirrors, and when I've worked out how to do so without any damage they will go back to standard. I'm wary of pulling things off quickly (however horrible they are). I had to remove the roof spoiler and the adhesive took some paint with it. When we get a nice dry day I'll prepare and paint the whole roof (not a disaster, the horizontal surfaces all need some improvement so I'll do the boot lid at the same time).

Last week I removed a metal Volvo badge that had been stuck on the front of the bonnet - 90% came off easily, but in two small places the adhesive took some paint away (or perhaps it was there to hide some stone chips anyway?). I've touched it up with a bit of rattle can applied with a brush, but it will need some more improvement one day.

Many thanks,

Alan

[Othen]

Originally Posted by loki_the_glt

I think that the only way to re-use the driving lamps is to replace the existing headlamps and grille with one from a DL model that uses the narrower headlamps and wider grille; I have seen the Hella grille I mentioned on cars with the 7" round lamps. There might be a photo from a Volvo National of a French(?) LHD 242GT with the grille somewhere on the web...

Just googled "Volvo 242GT" and got a load of images of both 12"-to-the-foot and 1:43 ones:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=...AAAAAdAAAAABAP

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...tOqjn5m9-VUV2f

I'm not sure I'm keen on either of those two designs, and I certainly don't want to start changing headlamps and grilles to fit a couple of £20 driving lights. Dave is coming up with some sketches of his idea for mounting the lights in the grille - we'll see what they look like.

On the whole I'm happier getting the car closer to standard, so I'm dubious about replacing the driving lights. They can't go back under the bumper, and I as I said above, I don't think there is room in front of the grille.

Many thanks for your thoughts and advice.

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I took the opportunity (as I almost always do) to tidy up some other scruffiness - the radio's permanent feed is now moved from direct to the battery to a fuse - I think #9 (hazard warning lights), which is better and doesn't need an unnecessary conductor running through the bulkhead.

Usually the hazards, clock and interior lights share a common fuse and mostly, the radio permanent feed is taken from that fuse so it's nice to see you've gone with convention on that one.

Originally Posted by Othen

I'm still thinking about the driving lights. My grille is 600mm wide and the rectangular lights are 140mm each, so if I spaced them evenly (say about 90-140-90-140-90) I can't help thinking it would look pretty cluttered. I'm not so keen about cutting the grille, because of the headlamps I suspect mine is quite rare, so it might be a one way journey. I quite like the look of the fogs though, so I may well change my mind in a few days.

I'm glad you approve of the car, I like the retro look. I was at Morrison's gas station the other day and the Royal Barge got a real compliment from the young lad at the cash register- he thought the it looked really cool (it turned out that his dad has a MGB GT, so he is keen on classic cars).

Apologies this isn't geometrically accurate but i counted the slats and uprights on the grille so that should be right and using the square Volvo badge to try and get some idea of scale, think i've got this right Alan but a tape measure will confirm/refute this. I've annotated the bits i'm fairly confident about in the measurements and if the scale i think i've got from the badge is correct, the lamps should fit in where i've shaded them simply by cutting the "+" part out of the grille in that area and mounting from behind.
This is my interpretation of what John refers to and any slightly rough finishs could be firstly filed smoothed then channel grommet fitted with a smear of RTV inside it to hold it to smarten theings up.



Fairly sure that will work, i double checked the measurements (i have a pair of the foglamp variety waiting to go on my Sterling) and you're spot on, 140 x70 and if i've got my assumptions on the scale correct, they should fit nicely where i've indicated.

There is a later 240/260 grille on fleabay but it's the wrong style, it shows they do come up every so often if it all goes horribly wrong which i doubt having seen your other handiwork!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Radiator-...5/283793552367

Originally Posted by Othen

I've ordered an old fashioned pull up telescopic radio antenna (like the one I had in 1985) to replace the rubber 'lady's dildo' one and enhance the retro look. I think the Royal Barge looks (and goes) much better as it heads back towards a more standard specification (but I like some bits - such as the wheels and the black stripes). I was thinking of getting rid of the tints on the front windows, I'm not sure they add very much to the car.

Alan

To be honest, i think the front tints look good, the only thing i'd be wary of is the VLT - Visible Light Transmission - as long as it's 70% or more, you're ok but if not then i would suggest either removing the tint from the front windows (which would make the rest look odd) or changing it for the same colour tint but with a higher VLT value.
I'm currently trying to work out tints for my beastie at the moment, being an estate i tend to get a lot of reflections from here, there and everywhere.

There's already a green tint on mine from the factory but for everything from the B post back, i can go for 70% VLT film without worrying. From the B post forward i have to be a little careful and really need to know what the VLT is for the original glass. If it's 90% then i'm safe to go for 80% film (80% of 90% is still 72% ) so that it's not the "gangsta look" but slightly darker than standard and hopefully reduces the reflections - will be better for the pooch too!

As for the aerial, nice touch!

Semi-automatic and automatic electric aerials were just coming into play in the early 80s so the manual aerial was still the fitment of choice for anyone who was posh enough to have a radio as standard.

I've seen (and even owned) some weird and wonderful aerials on cars over the years (not counting the CB aerials i've owned!) and i think the best one for novelty value was one that got dubbed a "standard aerial". It was on a car when i bought it, mounted on the front wing. It also had a clip on D pillar, next to the tailgate to clip the end in - it was long (about 9' give or take!) and flexible. Comedy value of that aerial was 10/10 and it worked well too.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by john.wigley

Totally agree, 'D.D.'. Both 'Othen's enthusiasm and obvious delight in his car, and the response of many knowledgeable and equally enthusiastic members, show the forum at it's best. I too am enjoying the ongoing saga of the Royal Barge!

Regards, John.

P.S. Regarding 'Othen's dilemma concerning refitting his driving lights - I've a feeling in my water that back in the day Volvo offered a modified grille with inset driving lamps as a dealer fit option. I've been searching my old catalogues for a mention - I'm sure I've seen it somewhere - but no joy so far!

J.

Hi John,
I cannot agree more: this forum has been absolutely first class. Without prompt and well informed comments by the members I'd still be struggling with the first few jobs. Instead I've lost count of all the improvements I've been able to make in the 2 or 3 weeks since owning the Royal Barge.

Best wishes all,

Alan

[Othen]

I've just finished flushing out the cooling system as per Dave's instructions (and have also fitted the 50050 switch in the radiator). Everything went exactly to plan until I took out the old thermostat, and found this:



... and from the other side:



... someone has cut away the bottom of the thermostat, just leaving the seal, so there is nothing to close. This explains why my engine was warming up so slowly of course, but do I have a problem (I don't know yet)? Why would a PO have done that unless there is a problem I don't know about somewhere?

I've fitted the thermostat (which appears to be new) and everything seems fine. I tested the new thermostat in a pan of hot water last night, and it opened up fine at just below boiling. I've re-filled the car (with water for the time being - until I'm absolutely sure all is well), it took 9 litres, which is right.

I've just started the car and all seems well, no leaks. It is obviously warming up quicker and would tick over without the fast idle after only a few minutes. The next thing to do is take it for a spin and see if the temperature remains constant. Once I've finished my cuppa I'll do that and report back in a jiffy.

Alan

[Othen]

Right chaps, I may need some help with this.

As per my last, I flushed the system, fitted a thermostat (you will recall, there wasn't one) and filled with water ready for a test drive.

All started well, the temperature got to half way quickly and the heater now works properly (I had not noticed much, but it was giving hardly any hot air previously).

I suppose I'd got about 2 miles, the temperature gauge continued to rise to the very top of the green part, so I headed for home. Here are the instruments when I got back:



... as you may see, the gauge is at the very top of the normal range, but otherwise the car is running fine, normal tickover and so on. I popped the bonnet and could feel the top hose getting warm (warm but not unduly hot) so the thermostat must be opening. The radiator had hardly warmed up at all, just the left side was hot to the touch, the rest was cold.

There seem to be 2 possibilities:

a. There really is something wrong with the cooling system, either the thermostat isn't opening fully or there is some sort of blockage somewhere preventing cooling. The evidence doesn't really seem to support thus though as the top hose is warming up, but the radiator isn't, the heater is working (well) and the motor seems to be running well otherwise.

b. The sender for the temperature gauge isn't working properly. I'm suspicious that this might be the case because I found what appears to be another one in the spares box:



I had a look around the engine bay and couldn't find where it goes, the Book of Haynes isn't much more helpful - perhaps one of you knowledgeable chaps would tell me. The easiest thing would probably be to just swap it out and see if the problem goes away.

What do you all think? I had to stop looking for faults when I noticed the rubber seal around the 50050 switch was leaking quite badly. I'll probably change it for the shorter one that came with the component (rather than the one that was on the original bung - and may well be a decade or two old) and see if that solves the problem once I've walked Bob.

The good news is that the bits to fit the electric fan arrived in the mail today. Once I get this issue sorted out I can get on with fixing that.

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Tight-fisted gits couldn't be bothered to renew the thermostat!

Looks like some poor misguided fool thought they were doing themselves and/or the car a favour by doing that, in reality it's lucky not to have warped the head!

Glad the rest of the job went well though, hopefully all is as it shold be now and you'll have some proper warmth out of the heater now!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Usually the hazards, clock and interior lights share a common fuse and mostly, the radio permanent feed is taken from that fuse so it's nice to see you've gone with convention on that one.

Apologies this isn't geometrically accurate but i counted the slats and uprights on the grille so that should be right and using the square Volvo badge to try and get some idea of scale, think i've got this right Alan but a tape measure will confirm/refute this. I've annotated the bits i'm fairly confident about in the measurements and if the scale i think i've got from the badge is correct, the lamps should fit in where i've shaded them simply by cutting the "+" part out of the grille in that area and mounting from behind.
This is my interpretation of what John refers to and any slightly rough finishs could be firstly filed smoothed then channel grommet fitted with a smear of RTV inside it to hold it to smarten theings up.



Fairly sure that will work, i double checked the measurements (i have a pair of the foglamp variety waiting to go on my Sterling) and you're spot on, 140 x70 and if i've got my assumptions on the scale correct, they should fit nicely where i've indicated.

There is a later 240/260 grille on fleabay but it's the wrong style, it shows they do come up every so often if it all goes horribly wrong which i doubt having seen your other handiwork!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Radiator-...5/283793552367

To be honest, i think the front tints look good, the only thing i'd be wary of is the VLT - Visible Light Transmission - as long as it's 70% or more, you're ok but if not then i would suggest either removing the tint from the front windows (which would make the rest look odd) or changing it for the same colour tint but with a higher VLT value.
I'm currently trying to work out tints for my beastie at the moment, being an estate i tend to get a lot of reflections from here, there and everywhere.

There's already a green tint on mine from the factory but for everything from the B post back, i can go for 70% VLT film without worrying. From the B post forward i have to be a little careful and really need to know what the VLT is for the original glass. If it's 90% then i'm safe to go for 80% film (80% of 90% is still 72% ) so that it's not the "gangsta look" but slightly darker than standard and hopefully reduces the reflections - will be better for the pooch too!

As for the aerial, nice touch!

Semi-automatic and automatic electric aerials were just coming into play in the early 80s so the manual aerial was still the fitment of choice for anyone who was posh enough to have a radio as standard.

I've seen (and even owned) some weird and wonderful aerials on cars over the years (not counting the CB aerials i've owned!) and i think the best one for novelty value was one that got dubbed a "standard aerial". It was on a car when i bought it, mounted on the front wing. It also had a clip on D pillar, next to the tailgate to clip the end in - it was long (about 9' give or take!) and flexible. Comedy value of that aerial was 10/10 and it worked well too.

I'd missed this one earlier Dave - my apology.

Many thanks for the thoughts on the driving lamps - I think incorporating them into the grille would be the only way to make them work. I'll have a look at the dimensions when it stops raining.

My new 240 in 1984/5 certainly had a pull up antenna - electric ones were still luxury items then (also I think I remember the car came without a radio and I got a nice Blue Spot (expensive make in those days) fitted when I got beck to Germany.

... it is moserable here today, but Bob is still ready for his second walk...

bis spaeter.

Alan

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Tight-fisted gits couldn't be bothered to renew the thermostat!

Looks like some poor misguided fool thought they were doing themselves and/or the car a favour by doing that, in reality it's lucky not to have warped the head!

Glad the rest of the job went well though, hopefully all is as it shold be now and you'll have some proper warmth out of the heater now!

Hi Dave,

See later post - re the temperature sender?

I've just re-fitted the 50050 with the short seal that came with it. When I had a look at the old seal it has well and truly perished, several splits, I suspect it only held because of a few decades on limescale.

I hope the new seal works. It was a far tighter fit. The maximum system pressure is only 10 PSI, so if the switch has an area of about a square inch that will only be a pound trying to force it out, and I reckon it is much more than that at the mo. I may still cable tie it in place though.

Time for Bob's walk, if you had a mo to gibe me an opinion on the temperature issue I'd appreciate it.

Alan