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Electrical problem 940

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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 00:53   #151
Laird Scooby
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Originally Posted by Ammorack View Post
Sorry if I sound dumb to you guys :/

I have also experienced that the little thing that’s inside the rotor, that slides on the dizzy. Is small on aftermarket parts and big on original parts. I’ll check that dizzy out and I’ll also buy a shirt little 8mm wrench
Not a problem, it's just if one of us asks you to check something it's because we know it's a potential failure point, even on new components.

However, if the dizzy cap is new, are you absolutely certain you didn't mix up the firing order of the HT leads when you fitted it? We have had this scenario before where someone interposed two leads and it gave a rough idle and wouldn't rev properly.

Ash - can you post a pic of the correct layout of the HT leads please?
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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 04:34   #152
aardvarkash10
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post

Ash - can you post a pic of the correct layout of the HT leads please?
Happy to oblige. Forgive the lazy lead dress and general untidiness.

Lead order left to right as you look into the engine bay is 4-3-1-2
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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 07:44   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Not a problem, it's just if one of us asks you to check something it's because we know it's a potential failure point, even on new components.

However, if the dizzy cap is new, are you absolutely certain you didn't mix up the firing order of the HT leads when you fitted it? We have had this scenario before where someone interposed two leads and it gave a rough idle and wouldn't rev properly.

Ash - can you post a pic of the correct layout of the HT leads please?
Yes, I’ll post a picture. It’s 4-3-1-2
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Last edited by Ammorack; Apr 4th, 2020 at 08:19.
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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 11:14   #154
Laird Scooby
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
However, if the dizzy cap is new, are you absolutely certain you didn't mix up the firing order of the HT leads when you fitted it? We have had this scenario before where someone interposed two leads and it gave a rough idle and wouldn't rev properly.

Ash - can you post a pic of the correct layout of the HT leads please?


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Originally Posted by aardvarkash10 View Post
Happy to oblige. Forgive the lazy lead dress and general untidiness.

Lead order left to right as you look into the engine bay is 4-3-1-2


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Originally Posted by Ammorack View Post
Yes, I’ll post a picture. It’s 4-3-1-2

Well that's that theory laid to rest then!

Doesn't really leave much now - i assume the air filter isn't blocked, no blockages between air filter and MAF, no blockages between MAF and throttle body and i seem to recall Ash got you to disconnect the exhaust to make sure the exhaust (including the cat) wasn't blocked.
Cam timing has been checked, CTS checked and renewed, Lambda sensor renewed (not that it works when cold anyway), alternator has been checked - all tested ok.

Another silly ignition related thought Ammo - can you check the coil LT connections? Blue should go to + on the coil and red/white should go to -

Please check that is how the connections are and if not make them that way.

If, after checking all you have left to check (no blockages in air filter, hoses from filter to MAF to throttle body, coil connections, carbon brush inside dizzy cap) that leaves me with a conclusion but check those things first.
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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 18:43   #155
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Well that's that theory laid to rest then!

Doesn't really leave much now - i assume the air filter isn't blocked, no blockages between air filter and MAF, no blockages between MAF and throttle body and i seem to recall Ash got you to disconnect the exhaust to make sure the exhaust (including the cat) wasn't blocked.
Cam timing has been checked, CTS checked and renewed, Lambda sensor renewed (not that it works when cold anyway), alternator has been checked - all tested ok.

Another silly ignition related thought Ammo - can you check the coil LT connections? Blue should go to + on the coil and red/white should go to -

Please check that is how the connections are and if not make them that way.

If, after checking all you have left to check (no blockages in air filter, hoses from filter to MAF to throttle body, coil connections, carbon brush inside dizzy cap) that leaves me with a conclusion but check those things first.
I have now checked dizzycap, and dizzy spinning thing. Brush? Yeah checked that. No blockage in airfilter, MAF and throttlebody, coil leads are placed correct way. Hoses are fine. So now it’s time for your conclusions

But the adjustment for Throttle, it says 0,15mm feeler gauge between throttle lever and throttle stop screw, a click should be heard. If not. Adjust to specs. I do not hear a click with 0,15mm gauge between. So should I adjust the throttle then?
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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 20:32   #156
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Your car should be with the diagnostic box at the engine bay, right?
If so, very easy to check the TPS!
Everything seems TPS related, I didn't read the whole thread till now. Will do later
Good luck, Kay
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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 22:28   #157
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I have now checked dizzycap, and dizzy spinning thing. Brush? Yeah checked that. No blockage in airfilter, MAF and throttlebody, coil leads are placed correct way. Hoses are fine. So now it’s time for your conclusions

But the adjustment for Throttle, it says 0,15mm feeler gauge between throttle lever and throttle stop screw, a click should be heard. If not. Adjust to specs. I do not hear a click with 0,15mm gauge between. So should I adjust the throttle then?
You could try it and also check the operation with the test box as Kay suggests but i've a funny feeling that after adjusting it, it will show as working correctly.

If so, as we've checked everything else and this is more or less a double-check of the TPS (which we've already done by disconnecting it so it would have revved above 3k if the TPS had been stopping it) that only leave the ECU as being the faulty.

Unless Kay can come up with any other suggestions after reading it, i'm all out of ideas.
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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 22:39   #158
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
You could try it and also check the operation with the test box as Kay suggests but i've a funny feeling that after adjusting it, it will show as working correctly.

If so, as we've checked everything else and this is more or less a double-check of the TPS (which we've already done by disconnecting it so it would have revved above 3k if the TPS had been stopping it) that only leave the ECU as being the faulty.

Unless Kay can come up with any other suggestions after reading it, i'm all out of ideas.
This car is so frustratingly strange 🤣
I’ll adjust Throttle to specs later
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Old Apr 5th, 2020, 12:50   #159
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
You could try it and also check the operation with the test box as Kay suggests but i've a funny feeling that after adjusting it, it will show as working correctly.

If so, as we've checked everything else and this is more or less a double-check of the TPS (which we've already done by disconnecting it so it would have revved above 3k if the TPS had been stopping it) that only leave the ECU as being the faulty.

Unless Kay can come up with any other suggestions after reading it, i'm all out of ideas.
With tps unplugged it’s constant 2000rpm on idle. And revs to 6000rpm. So it’s tps problems right. Didn’t I mention that previously in this thread? If not I’m sorry? I adjusted tps to 0,15mm

Still not much difference in idle performance. Though I have cleaned the throttlebody
Then I can adjust the idle on throttlebody then right?

Last edited by Ammorack; Apr 5th, 2020 at 13:04.
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Old Apr 5th, 2020, 13:24   #160
Laird Scooby
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Originally Posted by Ammorack View Post
With tps unplugged it’s constant 2000rpm on idle. And revs to 6000rpm. So it’s tps problems right. Didn’t I mention that previously in this thread? If not I’m sorry? I adjusted tps to 0,15mm

Still not much difference in idle performance. Though I have cleaned the throttlebody
Then I can adjust the idle on throttlebody then right?
I wish you'd put these results up when i first asked you to try it without the TPS connected!

It would have saved a lot of head-scratching and an incorrect conclusion (re the ECU) which could have cost you a lot of money to find out was incorrect!

It would also have saved you having to take the dizzy cap off to check the carbon brush!

If you remember, very early in the thread, Ash got upset with you and so did i because we had each asked you to perform checks that you didn't do and didn't report on correctly. I at least thought you had learned to perform the checks, exactly as they were asked and then give the results.

You're lucky that you've put the correct results up and not spent money on a new ECU that wouldn't have been necessary!

Right, back to the TPS, it's obviously way out of adjustment. Can you put up a photo of it so we can check that no numpty has fitted it upside down?

Then i'll explain how to adjust it correctly. DO NOTHING ELSE - JUST TAKE THE PHOTO!!!!!
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