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Oil Consumption - NOT Solved - still burning oil - Thought?!

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Old Jul 29th, 2020, 08:49   #11
AndyV7o
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Low sulphur, that sounds like a mid or low saps C spec oil...?
Make sure you use A5/B5 full saps oil, low saps oil can cause more dpf problems and regens with these. Preferably from a big brand as the additives are superior and oxidisation resistance higher, etc.
May not be the root cause or be a magic fix but it will definitely help keep things behaving properly.
A lot of people think that changing to mid saps oil will help the dpf but its not that straightforward.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2020, 01:00   #12
NMB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyV7o View Post
Also, what oil are you using?
Not the oil you suggest so I’m ordering that now.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2020, 01:15   #13
NMB
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An interesting update:

The engine had started developing a knock and on inspection the lower front engine tie rod bolt had fallen out that had clearly worked its way loose. This in turn meant the engine was moving so the charge air side had an air leak under high revs.

The orange side at the top of the resonator box was actually damaged and clearly failing.

I replaced the resonator box with the suggested pipe which I bought online for £25 delivered. I fitted this and refitted the engine tie rod and the car runs a lot better and is quieter.

Problem solved.... NO!!

So the soot filter Is returning again and oil consumption remains. I’m still waiting for the new oil PCV membrane and spring to arrive to fit which is another chance that things may move on.

However, an interesting thing happened when I completed a static regen of the DPF through VIDA. The regen finished stating that the soot had been returned zero from 26.3. I think monitored the particles as I’ve left the engine and it reved the car up to 1, 2, 3 % and then it self reset back to 0. I repeated this for about five minutes And when I stopped the value was still zero. KPI was about 75 on the wedding in about 38 and idle.

So I left the VIDA monitoring the soot particles and took the car for a spin and within two minutes the soot particle count went back up to 26 an, you guessed it, the soot filter warning returned...

But he is the interesting thing.

When I drove the car back to the house the particle count started dropping by 0.1 on idle and the count was returning to 0 but stopped over a couple of minutes at 22.

So, although I know I’m still burning oil I have ordered a replacement DPF pressure sensor as I’m wondering if there is a failed component miss reporting the soot load.? When fitting I will also ensure that the DPF pipes are cleaned out prior to reassembly.

On Monday I should have my part to replace the PCV valve which hopefully may help with the oil consumption.

Another thing to consider is a DPF clean that maybe there is crap in there just cannot be shifted.

Any helpful comments?

Last edited by NMB; Aug 2nd, 2020 at 01:20.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2020, 07:33   #14
SwissXC90
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Do a live graph of the dpf pressure sensors

They should move only gradually.
If they move suddenly, suspect a problem with one of the pressure sensors. Inspect them carefully.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2020, 12:40   #15
NMB
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Originally Posted by SwissXC90 View Post
Do a live graph of the dpf pressure sensors

They should move only gradually.
If they move suddenly, suspect a problem with one of the pressure sensors. Inspect them carefully.
I Will Swiss - thanks.

I'm working on the fact the at the issue is either in the DPF Pressure sensor or the DPF it's self - what other sensors would you recommend using live data on?
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Old Aug 4th, 2020, 20:04   #16
NMB
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Question PVC Change complete

Hi again all,

As with the fault tracing on a problem like oil consumption, I have been ticking off jobs to identify the actual problem - the latest job complete is the PVC valve replacement.

Althogh previously I had removed and inspected the PVC valve (when I replaced the turbo) after inspection of the PCV I just refitted the old component as I could see the membrane was not damaged and was intact. There were no perforations or tears and the membrane appeared to be in good condition so I just refitted it after a good clean. I thought that there was not need to replace.

However, after replacing the turbo and cleaning the induction system, my car still used oil and smoked badly inconsistently. (grrrrrrr).

So, following further advice on the forums here (thank you everyone), and my perpetual clouds of smoke, today I have removed and replaced the PVC valve with a brand new unit which included the plastic housing, membrane and spring as replacements to the existing unit. It took about 45 minutes to fit as the main intake pipe needs to be removed amongst a few other pipes etc. There is also a fiddley torq (25?) situated at the back of the PCV housing which is just very difficult to access (I ended up using an alan key as that let me do 1/6th turns to loosen and tighten).

I'm pleased to say that after a test drive today the new PCV appears to had a positive effect as there were no random clouds of smoke whilst accellerating, normal driving or imediatley after short idleing periods (then pulling away). Although I have only driven for 30 miles or so I am confident that the PCV valve replacement has had a huge positive impact on the engine as there is now no large puffs of smoke - the PCV replacement appears to have fixed this issue.

So here is my theory on why replacing the intact PCV valve has had an impact.

In my case the PCV valve was in tact but I was also getting incosistent oil burning and plooms of smoke usually on low boost scinarios immediately after idling. So this is my theory...

Once removed, I disassembed the PCV valve and the rubber membrane to inspect and (although intact) it had lost it's flexibility. Instead of a rubber, flexible feal it had more like a thin plastic feel. It still moved but instead of flexing across the entire surface it "popped" from one position to the other and I think that this is the reason why I was getting inconsistent smoking:

If the vacuum from the engine was enough to pull the membrane closed then the valve would work and stop oil being pulled into the intake. If the vacuum was not enough (on idle) then the valve could not be closed and vaporised oil would be pulled into the intake causing the engine to smoke.


So now the next problem.... Soot Filter Full..

Although the smoking issue has seemingly been cleared/resolved, I now need to sort our the DPF issue as I ran a forced Regen earlier this afternoon to clear the DPF and I was bamboozled as even though the regen was sucessful (and I saw the soot filter % reduced down to zero) after it completed, the soot percentage was back at 28...

So even after a static regen for 37 minutes, watching the Soot counter countdown to zero, it jumped back to 28 after i switched off and restarted the car...

On reviewing the sensor tempratures, there appears to be no "jumping" of readings so I am assuming that they are all working as they should?

So my next step is to replace the DPF pressure sensor and make sure that the twp dpf pipes connecting to the sensor are clear from gunk and they are not blocked. I will probably then buy some DPF cleander and try to clean it out whilst also getting an adfative for the fuel followed by a static regen...

Any other comments on how to sort this?

Last edited by NMB; Aug 4th, 2020 at 20:11.
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Old Aug 4th, 2020, 21:00   #17
S60D5-185
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Great, keeps us informed as to whether it has fixed it long term👍
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Old Nov 2nd, 2023, 13:23   #18
Ryan1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMB View Post
Hi again all,

As with the fault tracing on a problem like oil consumption, I have been ticking off jobs to identify the actual problem - the latest job complete is the PVC valve replacement.

Althogh previously I had removed and inspected the PVC valve (when I replaced the turbo) after inspection of the PCV I just refitted the old component as I could see the membrane was not damaged and was intact. There were no perforations or tears and the membrane appeared to be in good condition so I just refitted it after a good clean. I thought that there was not need to replace.

However, after replacing the turbo and cleaning the induction system, my car still used oil and smoked badly inconsistently. (grrrrrrr).

So, following further advice on the forums here (thank you everyone), and my perpetual clouds of smoke, today I have removed and replaced the PVC valve with a brand new unit which included the plastic housing, membrane and spring as replacements to the existing unit. It took about 45 minutes to fit as the main intake pipe needs to be removed amongst a few other pipes etc. There is also a fiddley torq (25?) situated at the back of the PCV housing which is just very difficult to access (I ended up using an alan key as that let me do 1/6th turns to loosen and tighten).

I'm pleased to say that after a test drive today the new PCV appears to had a positive effect as there were no random clouds of smoke whilst accellerating, normal driving or imediatley after short idleing periods (then pulling away). Although I have only driven for 30 miles or so I am confident that the PCV valve replacement has had a huge positive impact on the engine as there is now no large puffs of smoke - the PCV replacement appears to have fixed this issue.

So here is my theory on why replacing the intact PCV valve has had an impact.

In my case the PCV valve was in tact but I was also getting incosistent oil burning and plooms of smoke usually on low boost scinarios immediately after idling. So this is my theory...

Once removed, I disassembed the PCV valve and the rubber membrane to inspect and (although intact) it had lost it's flexibility. Instead of a rubber, flexible feal it had more like a thin plastic feel. It still moved but instead of flexing across the entire surface it "popped" from one position to the other and I think that this is the reason why I was getting inconsistent smoking:

If the vacuum from the engine was enough to pull the membrane closed then the valve would work and stop oil being pulled into the intake. If the vacuum was not enough (on idle) then the valve could not be closed and vaporised oil would be pulled into the intake causing the engine to smoke.


So now the next problem.... Soot Filter Full..

Although the smoking issue has seemingly been cleared/resolved, I now need to sort our the DPF issue as I ran a forced Regen earlier this afternoon to clear the DPF and I was bamboozled as even though the regen was sucessful (and I saw the soot filter % reduced down to zero) after it completed, the soot percentage was back at 28...

So even after a static regen for 37 minutes, watching the Soot counter countdown to zero, it jumped back to 28 after i switched off and restarted the car...

On reviewing the sensor tempratures, there appears to be no "jumping" of readings so I am assuming that they are all working as they should?

So my next step is to replace the DPF pressure sensor and make sure that the twp dpf pipes connecting to the sensor are clear from gunk and they are not blocked. I will probably then buy some DPF cleander and try to clean it out whilst also getting an adfative for the fuel followed by a static regen...

Any other comments on how to sort this?
Hi any update on this please as I have the same problem thanks
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