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top end ticking, tappets?

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Old Jul 30th, 2020, 16:58   #11
MMT5
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My 2008 S60 T5 has done 214000 miles and the oil recommended in my Autodata manual states 0w/30, however I have used 5w/40 for the last eight years.

The engine is both quieter and uses no oil now as a result.

The interesting thing is that my 2.4 engine is pretty much the same as the late S60R models, yet the manual states 5w/40 for this model.

As I also have a stage 3 BSR tune I will continue to use 5w/40.

Also as an added precaution I fitted a magnetic sump plug as well. I fitted the same sump plug to my 2001 T4 as well.

Last edited by MMT5; Jul 30th, 2020 at 17:01.
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Old Jul 31st, 2020, 01:56   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMT5 View Post
My 2008 S60 T5 has done 214000 miles and the oil recommended in my Autodata manual states 0w/30, however I have used 5w/40 for the last eight years.

The engine is both quieter and uses no oil now as a result.

The interesting thing is that my 2.4 engine is pretty much the same as the late S60R models, yet the manual states 5w/40 for this model.

As I also have a stage 3 BSR tune I will continue to use 5w/40.

Also as an added precaution I fitted a magnetic sump plug as well. I fitted the same sump plug to my 2001 T4 as well.
As you have a stage 3 then perhaps the thicker oil is beneficial, more so with regards to the high temp thickness (/40), the 5 however is more suited to winter but what I have read is, that its better to stick to the manufacturers recommended, again, perhaps not for you due to the stage 3, i don't know but it says changing the w can make it harder starting as its too thick for the crankshaft as it will take more energy.

As mine is standard then I best stick with what Volvo recommends'ish

Whats the difference between Volov's own oil and say Castrol, is the latter better or is the Volvo a rebrand of say something like Total?

I would have bought some magnatec yesterday but for Amazon coming up short, its a struggle to find a B5 be it 0 or 5W

This page is a good read

Ive also noticed that these car parts places such as GSF etc, costs far more for bodgit oils than it does to buy decent oils from online, and I don't like the way it throws up this sludge when I put in my reg
DRIVETEC 0W30 VOLOMAX FS 5L Part No : 980AA2401 £74.14 inc VAT
or
COMMA 0W30 FS VOLTECH 1L Part No : 980AA2550 £18.53 inc VAT
That could be very misleading for the unsuspecting

They are the only 2 that are listed for mine on GSF lol
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Last edited by Bashy; Jul 31st, 2020 at 02:20.
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Old Aug 1st, 2020, 18:01   #13
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When you say noisy tappets, do you mean like a ticking sound when you rev the car, if so, I think im in the boat as you. My dipstick broke off and I had to use a screw to get it out, replaced it from a breakers, in doing so obviously checked the oil and think its time for a change, cars only been owned for a few months so God knows who's put what on it. The oil reads just over 3/4 full and looks real dirty.

My cars on 169,000 Miles, its a 5w30 for the high milage if that's correct.
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Old Aug 1st, 2020, 20:49   #14
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The injectors tap pretty loud on D5s, make sure it's not that you are hearing?
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Old Aug 1st, 2020, 20:59   #15
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I did have an injector issue on mine, I change 3 of the offending injectors with new seals and clamps but only made a slight difference to the noise, my engine sounds loud compared similar diesels, I was next to a d5 xc90 earlier and that sounded much better.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2020, 03:31   #16
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HI folks, i am fairly sure it does not change when revved, its a constant tick, doesn't get faster I mean, well, I don't think it does, will have to pay more attention to it, its hard whennits just me...
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Old Aug 2nd, 2020, 10:50   #17
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I'm surprised no one's mentioned the possibility of headwork yet Bashy, I'm beginning to think that with mine, these cars supposedly suffered a batch of bad lifters which makes the car sound horrible.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2020, 04:10   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stellaman94 View Post
I'm surprised no one's mentioned the possibility of headwork yet Bashy, I'm beginning to think that with mine, these cars supposedly suffered a batch of bad lifters which makes the car sound horrible.
Crikey, I hope not :/

I could be wrong about the "no rise and fall with the revs", I seem to be wrong about most things so, why stop there lol.

Just a thought, Stellaman94 did mention about injector, I did change injector 1 not too long back and thinking about it, it may not have been ticking prior to that. I did generate injector tick in injector 1 during install as I hadn't used a new bracket thingy, once I added a fitting kit all was well. I am going to have to go under the bonnet and make sure that hasn't come back, not used the car for a few days hence not much in the way of updates...

One other thing, the noise is only there once the engine has warmed a little, only talking about 1 minute on idle and about 200m travel, then it starts the ticking/tapping, whatever it is, it does not appear to be there when starting from cold (overnight)
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Old Aug 3rd, 2020, 10:34   #19
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2 videos, Ive noticed it does rise and fall with the revs but it also stops for a split second as I release the accelerator, so that sort of points to 1 or more injectors, yes? It's noisier towards 3/4/5?

https://youtu.be/65deco1aVZQ

https://youtu.be/VERkj9J-93Y
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Old Aug 4th, 2020, 00:18   #20
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Bear in mind that the aux belt isn't a totally silent part either as its in motion. For example, if you start the car & put your head at the wheel arch & listen closely, you can hear the belt moving around on the pulleys... Its a movement/friction noise. Obviously, a rattling pulley would be another noise altogether, but it can be hard to distinguish sounds in that area of the car because you've got moving belts etc too that make a noise as they move.

The ticking/tapping noise in question doesn't sound anywhere near as bad as the video on your channel from about a month ago (I know that injector has since been replaced, but it was a much louder noise than what you're experiencing now).

There doesn't appear to be any leaks now & I'm guessing no codes either? If so, it may be a case of leaving it be for a while to see if the noise gets any worse (Like the sound from the video a month ago). Replacing the rest of the injectors isn't cheap & there's no guarantee that replacement will solve the noise you're hearing now (It might not be the injectors after all).
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