240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I'm still considering it Dave - but I tending to conclude this one is not for me - a 1000 mile trip over 2 days, possibly to find a motor and gearbox that are no good.

I told the chap I'd get back to him within a few days.

I'd agree whole-heartedly with your conclusion Alan, it's a long way and a lot of effort to discover the engine is FUBAR although i would suggest with any engine a basic stripdown, check and rebuild with new gaskets would be a good idea, perhaps renew the big ends and mains as a precaution, possibly pistons rings and hone the bores as well.

However if the evidence suggested that it was all ok inside, i'd do the basics (timing belt & tensioner, oil/filter, new plugs and inspect dizzy cap and rotor arm) and see what happened on start up.

I'd also spin it over a few times on the starter with the plugs out after setting the crank to 90 deg ATDC and dribbling some synthetic ATF down the bores for a few days previous then when all the ATF was expelled, fit new plugs and go for the start up.

If memory serves, the B230A was only 112bhp so you'd only be gaining 6bhp, the B230E would be a much better bet to start with, even if you went for a carb conversion - either way a 4-branch manifold would greatly assist in releasing a few more horses and a Jetex manifold back system would also help.

Not sure if OBX Racing still make a stainless exhaust system for the 240 series but that might be the way to go for the exhaust, unless you're considering a Lexus 1UZ (4.0 V8) conversion in 10 years time.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I'd agree whole-heartedly with your conclusion Alan, it's a long way and a lot of effort to discover the engine is FUBAR although i would suggest with any engine a basic stripdown, check and rebuild with new gaskets would be a good idea, perhaps renew the big ends and mains as a precaution, possibly pistons rings and hone the bores as well.

However if the evidence suggested that it was all ok inside, i'd do the basics (timing belt & tensioner, oil/filter, new plugs and inspect dizzy cap and rotor arm) and see what happened on start up.

I'd also spin it over a few times on the starter with the plugs out after setting the crank to 90 deg ATDC and dribbling some synthetic ATF down the bores for a few days previous then when all the ATF was expelled, fit new plugs and go for the start up.

If memory serves, the B230A was only 112bhp so you'd only be gaining 6bhp, the B230E would be a much better bet to start with, even if you went for a carb conversion - either way a 4-branch manifold would greatly assist in releasing a few more horses and a Jetex manifold back system would also help.

Not sure if OBX Racing still make a stainless exhaust system for the 240 series but that might be the way to go for the exhaust, unless you're considering a Lexus 1UZ (4.0 V8) conversion in 10 years time.

All very sensible Dave - I think I'd probably have to go for a pretty thorough strip down and check it I bought the B230a and manual box: I managed to work out today that the car to which the motor had been fitted was last MoT tested 10 years ago, so that engine and gearbox have been standing in a field or barn for a decade.

I'm still considering the whole RB project path, and having heard lots of evidence I'm coming to think you were right all along: what I should do is just change the BW55 for Luke's AW71 (assuming it becomes available in the spring). I'm thinking that once I get the 4 speeder conversion nicely sorted the B21a motor will cope with the higher ratio, and if need be I then embark upon some mild torque upgrades.

My thinking is that I know I have a strong B21a motor now - so it would make no sense to throw the baby out with the bathwater. I've been fortunate with the RB and it has turned out to be a very nice motor car indeed - I would not want to risk losing that by taking too large a step and falling down a hole.

That is my thinking at the moment (but I suppose if the right parts happened to fall into my lap then I might change my mind).

A Lexus V8 in 10 years? - from what the government told us recently I think it is more likely I'll have to get that electric engine and a big pile of batteries :-)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

All very sensible Dave - I think I'd probably have to go for a pretty thorough strip down and check it I bought the B230a and manual box: I managed to work out today that the car to which the motor had been fitted was last MoT tested 10 years ago, so that engine and gearbox have been standing in a field or barn for a decade.

I'm still considering the whole RB project path, and having heard lots of evidence I'm coming to think you were right all along: what I should do is just change the BW55 for Luke's AW71 (assuming it becomes available in the spring). I'm thinking that once I get the 4 speeder conversion nicely sorted the B21a motor will cope with the higher ratio, and if need be I then embark upon some mild torque upgrades.

My thinking is that I know I have a strong B21a motor now - so it would make no sense to throw the baby out with the bathwater. I've been fortunate with the RB and it has turned out to be a very nice motor car indeed - I would not want to risk losing that by taking too large a step and falling down a hole.

That is my thinking at the moment (but I suppose if the right parts happened to fall into my lap then I might change my mind).

A Lexus V8 in 10 years? - from what the government told us recently I think it is more likely I'll have to get that electric engine and a big pile of batteries :-)

I think that's a very sensible approach to it Alan, the AW70/71 should give you a good improvement in sound and economy levels on the motorway ehere you need/want it most and if you find that performance on the motorway is satisfactory without any further alterations, leave it be and enjoy.

If you find you need just a little more then go for the carb conversion and 4-branch exhaust with possibly a full system later. If you need/want a bit more than that, then a B230E with the carb and 4-branch will give you a nice increase on top.

PS - i'm not yet convinced electric cars are the way forward, i have a horrible feeling things will come unstuck with disastrous results with them.
That said, a motor equivalent to 250bhp in your RB could be interesting!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I think that's a very sensible approach to it Alan, the AW70/71 should give you a good improvement in sound and economy levels on the motorway ehere you need/want it most and if you find that performance on the motorway is satisfactory without any further alterations, leave it be and enjoy.

If you find you need just a little more then go for the carb conversion and 4-branch exhaust with possibly a full system later. If you need/want a bit more than that, then a B230E with the carb and 4-branch will give you a nice increase on top.

PS - i'm not yet convinced electric cars are the way forward, i have a horrible feeling things will come unstuck with disastrous results with them.
That said, a motor equivalent to 250bhp in your RB could be interesting!

It was a useful thought exercise over the last week or so Dave, mulling over whether I needed to change the motor, and if so for what, but I think I've come to the right conclusion. The early plan to swap the gearbox for an AW71 unit should be plenty.

I dare say that over the years I may be tempted to do a few more discrete modifications, but the invisible one of changing to a 4 speeder gearbox will do nicely for now.

I wasn't serious about the electric motor thing :-)

[Othen]

Dave,
Just remind me would you, what was the answer about the cable speedo drive on a AW71 when fitted in the RB? I remember it being discussed back in the RB story, but I can’t remember the answer.
Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

Dave,
Just remind me would you, what was the answer about the cable speedo drive on a AW71 when fitted in the RB? I remember it being discussed back in the RB story, but I can’t remember the answer.
Alan

Now you're asking Alan! I've been asleep since then!

If memory serves, the answer was to either swap the extensions housings or to open up the blanked hole in the 71 housing for the speedo drive gear and transfer it from your 55 to 71.

It's a relatively minor detail and not insurmountable so maybe the suck it and see principle will work well.

[Othen]

The wheels are finished, and even if I say so myself they look pretty good:



... in my humble opinion well worth the £60 total they have cost me (plus about 2 whole days work spread over the week - but I don't account for my labour, otherwise the RB would have to be worth £10,000!).

I'll leave the paint to harden overnight, then mock them up in position on the RB so I can get an idea of how they would look. My feeling is that they will give the RB a nice look, so I have 4 options (I know, I've discussed this previously, but I'm still thinking aloud and mulling things over):

a. Sell them - probably to a 900 series bloke - having done the work I think we can discount this straight away.
b. Put them on a pallet and store them until I need them one day for the RB (maybe if a Virgo wheel becomes damaged). I think the wheels have come up too well for that (notwithstanding tomorrow's photo shot).
c. Fit a set of normal tyres (cost about £150), like the RB has on the Virgo wheels now. This would be fine, but would be a bit pointless because then I'd just store the Virgo wheels.
d. Fit a set of winter tyres (cost about £190), and use the RB through the winter (I was going to SORN the motor car from December until it become tax exempt in April, but I think I'd miss it).

... again, thinking aloud, unless the wheels look ridiculous on the RB I'm heading for 'd'. For a small outlay that makes the RB safer in the winter months and doubles the life of the tyres on both the Virgo and Pholus wheels (in practice probably the rest of the life of the car if I store them each summer/winter away from that nasty UV light).

I've enjoyed this little job this week, it has been my first attempt at restoring car alloy wheels - I have learned a bit and gained a few small skills.

:-)

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Now you're asking Alan! I've been asleep since then!

If memory serves, the answer was to either swap the extensions housings or to open up the blanked hole in the 71 housing for the speedo drive gear and transfer it from your 55 to 71.

It's a relatively minor detail and not insurmountable so maybe the suck it and see principle will work well.

Many thanks Dave,

I thought there was some fairly simple solution, I'll look up the discussion later on.

I still don't want to do any major modification to the RB until it is safely registered as an historic vehicle (so after April, I don't want to give some civil servant from Swansea an excuse to claim the RB has been significantly modified). If Luke's AW71 becomes available in February/March then that fits quite well. I could collect it and get it here to solve all the engineering problems (speedo drive, prop shaft, prop shaft support, shifter and cooling pipes) prior to fitting (so probably next summer or autumn). That fits my way of doing things (the Army way: lots of detailed planning with nothing much left to chance... and contingency plans for any unknowns).

Alan

PS. One more question Dave, is there a way of saving this little tank picture into the library of little pictures that is on the forum:



... so I don't have to keep going back to an old post and cutting and pasting it from there?

[Othen]

This is a test to see what the 'signature' feature does.

PS. It worked (added the little tank picture, which is what I wanted).

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

The wheels are finished, and even if I say so myself they look pretty good:



... in my humble opinion well worth the £60 total they have cost me (plus about 2 whole days work spread over the week - but I don't account for my labour, otherwise the RB would have to be worth £10,000!).

I'll leave the paint to harden overnight, then mock them up in position on the RB so I can get an idea of how they would look. My feeling is that they will give the RB a nice look, so I have 4 options (I know, I've discussed this previously, but I'm still thinking aloud and mulling things over):

a. Sell them - probably to a 900 series bloke - having done the work I think we can discount this straight away.
b. Put them on a pallet and store them until I need them one day for the RB (maybe if a Virgo wheel becomes damaged). I think the wheels have come up too well for that (notwithstanding tomorrow's photo shot).
c. Fit a set of normal tyres (cost about £150), like the RB has on the Virgo wheels now. This would be fine, but would be a bit pointless because then I'd just store the Virgo wheels.
d. Fit a set of winter tyres (cost about £190), and use the RB through the winter (I was going to SORN the motor car from December until it become tax exempt in April, but I think I'd miss it).

... again, thinking aloud, unless the wheels look ridiculous on the RB I'm heading for 'd'. For a small outlay that makes the RB safer in the winter months and doubles the life of the tyres on both the Virgo and Pholus wheels (in practice probably the rest of the life of the car if I store them each summer/winter away from that nasty UV light).

I've enjoyed this little job this week, it has been my first attempt at restoring car alloy wheels - I have learned a bit and gained a few small skills.

:-)

The wheels have come up really nicely Alan!

Can i suggesst Option e as well?

Have the winter tyres fitted on the Virgo wheels then fit the tyres that came off the Virgos onto the Pholus. Fit the Pholus wheels onto the RB and put the Virgos with their winter shoes in storage until the temperatures drop.
At the moment it's still too warm for winter tyres and all you'll do is wear them out prematurely but it will give you a few weeks to decide if you prefer the Pholii (?) on the car instead of the Virgos then a swap for the winter wheels/tyres.