V60 d3 vea egr

[GrahamBrown1]

According the specialist it does, I haven’t seen the print out myself or had a look at the valve actuator to see if it’s free or not. I will know more at the weekend. I have no reason doubt there diagnosis at the min.

[GrahamBrown1]

So to finish this thread off, got the car in the workshop today, plugged it in and code stored for EGR gas flow P04D9. Check engine light is on.

Removed the cover plate for the actuator and it’s free to move, as is the vacuum actuator. So at this point I’m fairly certain the cooler will be blocked. There has been no coolant loss in general with the car so fair to say the cooler hasn’t been leaking.

Removing the EGR valve and cooler assembly is very easy and straight forward in my opinion. Sure enough when I got it removed and split the cooler from the valve, the valve wasnt to bad. The cooler however was blocked solid. Left the cooler soaking for a few hrs and cleaned the valve.

The inlet manifold was also full of dirt and gunge. I removed the MAP sensor as this was coated in sludge and cleaned this as well as the pipe from the EGR to manifold which was coated in grime. The manifold will require removing at a later date and cleaning out ideally but we shall see what happens with the car first. Ideally it wants a new cooler as well. I also found the cam cover gasket leaking so that will need doing but again there is a cost to that as the injectors will need to be removed so clamps and a washers would need to be replaced.

Anyhow all back together, there is no need for any sealant on any of the gaskets and I did not replace any gaskets. If I was fitting new parts I would replace the various gaskets but with these pressed gaskets you can get away with re using. cleared engine warming light, car is responsive and runs well. Hopefully the light will stay out for a bit. At least I know where we are with it now.

The issue with my job working for a busy agricultural main dealer is having time for your own stuff. It’s easier for me dad to take it to a garage especially between spring and end of harvest. Not sure on what’s happening with the car it might get traded in or I might mess on with it over winter we shall see.

One thing is for sure, this engine isn’t a patch on the older D5s we have had. There is lots of cheap plastic and lots of torx screws into plastic certainly assembled at lowest cost possible!

Thanks again and I will try to get some pictures on

[JamesAtthews]

Hi, glad you managed to get the cooler unlocked and hopefully this will sort your warning code out. On a related point to what you said, I kept getting a p014d code, which related to the map sensor. When taking this out, it was blocked with the sticky black crud that the entire intake system was coated in. From looking around the web, as this is a pressure sensor, not a flow sensor, I was able to fit a folding spacer between the sensor and the manifold with a longer bolt. This keeps the sensor out of the flow of dirty air, but still in the manifold chamber to measure pressure.

I used to get this code up every 3-4 months, then I would clean it and reset the code. I put this spacer in about 12 months ago and it hasnt flagged up since, and the car has run fine since, so no I'll effects have been noted.

If you google map spacer, you'll get an idea of what I'm talking about.

Cheers
James

[GrahamBrown1]

Hi James,

Yes just had a google seems a good idea. If I remove the inlet i will
Probably look to get something like that as you say them sensors get well covered!

[Sotosound]

Originally Posted by GrahamBrown1

So to finish this thread off, got the car in the workshop today, plugged it in and code stored for EGR gas flow P04D9. Check engine light is on.

Removed the cover plate for the actuator and it’s free to move, as is the vacuum actuator. So at this point I’m fairly certain the cooler will be blocked. There has been no coolant loss in general with the car so fair to say the cooler hasn’t been leaking.

Removing the EGR valve and cooler assembly is very easy and straight forward in my opinion. Sure enough when I got it removed and split the cooler from the valve, the valve wasnt to bad. The cooler however was blocked solid. Left the cooler soaking for a few hrs and cleaned the valve.

The inlet manifold was also full of dirt and gunge. I removed the MAP sensor as this was coated in sludge and cleaned this as well as the pipe from the EGR to manifold which was coated in grime. The manifold will require removing at a later date and cleaning out ideally but we shall see what happens with the car first. Ideally it wants a new cooler as well. I also found the cam cover gasket leaking so that will need doing but again there is a cost to that as the injectors will need to be removed so clamps and a washers would need to be replaced.

Anyhow all back together, there is no need for any sealant on any of the gaskets and I did not replace any gaskets. If I was fitting new parts I would replace the various gaskets but with these pressed gaskets you can get away with re using. cleared engine warming light, car is responsive and runs well. Hopefully the light will stay out for a bit. At least I know where we are with it now.

The issue with my job working for a busy agricultural main dealer is having time for your own stuff. It’s easier for me dad to take it to a garage especially between spring and end of harvest. Not sure on what’s happening with the car it might get traded in or I might mess on with it over winter we shall see.

One thing is for sure, this engine isn’t a patch on the older D5s we have had. There is lots of cheap plastic and lots of torx screws into plastic certainly assembled at lowest cost possible!

Thanks again and I will try to get some pictures on

Many thanks for sharing the detail of what you found and what you did. This is interesting stuff.

Your insights into VEA versus D5 are also very interesting, if a little disconcerting.

So... is Volvo turning into a company that makes company cars, i.e. cars that do well for the warranty period, after which reliability goes out the window but it’s someone else’s problem?

We’ve been thinking about buying one good car after we retire, and we’d considered a Volvo as that one good car. However, EGR cooler issues and high oil consumption issues haven’t exactly reinforced what we’ve been thinking.

Instead, I’m now starting to think that the only good Volvo might be a pre-VEA Volvo. This is a great shame given how nice our current V60 and V70 are to drive and be driven in.

Am I worrying too much?

[Zebster]

Originally Posted by Sotosound

Many thanks for sharing the detail of what you found and what you did. This is interesting stuff.

Your insights into VEA versus D5 are also very interesting, if a little disconcerting.

So... is Volvo turning into a company that makes company cars, i.e. cars that do well for the warranty period, after which reliability goes out the window but it’s someone else’s problem?

We’ve been thinking about buying one good car after we retire, and we’d considered a Volvo as that one good car. However, EGR cooler issues and high oil consumption issues haven’t exactly reinforced what we’ve been thinking.

Instead, I’m now starting to think that the only good Volvo might be a pre-VEA Volvo. This is a great shame given how nice our current V60 and V70 are to drive and be driven in.

Am I worrying too much?

Why not get a petrol version?

[Sotosound]

Originally Posted by Zebster

Why not get a petrol version?

Good point!

[Zebster]

Originally Posted by Sotosound

Good point!

I wish I'd got a petrol model... mine is such a lovely car BUT far too many problems with the diesel. I've just had to add yet another half litre of engine oil and - while it's actually running fine right now - I feel like the next engine problem is just around the corner!

[GrahamBrown1]

In my opinion the last good Volvos were pre ford era but everyones perspective of what good is, is different. There is no question the Volvos of today are nicer cars to be in, the interiors are a loverly place to be with all the latest tech but that is what the consumer wants now.

I think if I was buying new I would go petrol. Tho modern petrols are not without their problems. some have issues with carbon build as they now have to be direct injection to get the emissions and fuel economy where it has to be.

The government have already started to tax older cars off the roads and tighten emissions testing at Mot time its only a matter of time before older cars become uneconomical to repair.

is the way forward leasing? you pay a fee for the use of a new car and if it goes wrong its not your issue. your always paying but at least you know exactly how much and how long for. Removes the unexpected cost of a repair. Who knows.....