S60 (2012) D3 - airbox screw holes knadgered

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by cbarrow

Thanks. More options to try. What kind of glue worked best for holding the bolts?

Why not just use zip ties?

[cbarrow]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

Why not just use zip ties?

it'd be nice to have a 'permanent' solution - but investigating all options at the moment so I can experiment and see which I feel works best for me. Not discarding anyone's suggestions at present, and grateful for everyone's input (no thanks to Volvo main dealer 'servicing' - I bet they suggest they need to supply a new lower airbox at Volvo prices next service!)

[Easington]

Originally Posted by cbarrow

Thanks. More options to try. What kind of glue worked best for holding the bolts?

I used some Araldite type epoxy resin as I wanted a more permanent long term solution

[cbarrow]

Thanks for all your suggestions. So I set about it today, armed with some zip ties, M4 bolts and nuts, and some No10 self-tapping stainless screws.

This is how it worked out and posting this in case it helps others.

I experimented with the old (genuine Volvo) filter and the airbox (out of the car on a bench). the filter is a tight fit (and a very good fit) but I found it better to fit it into the upper airbox half first, and press down firmly all around, and then mount the combo into the lower airbox. if I tried the other way around, it was hard to get the two airbox halves to mate since some bits of filter seal would stick out of the back (where it is hard to see). I suspect this is what happened when the lad / apprentice / Numbnuts at Volvo last changed the filter, and then tried to "screw it down" regardless. Since the screws are short, it had stripped out only the first half or so of the plastic in the holes in the lower box, so I had a few mm of virgin plastic to potentially grip onto (but needed longer screws).

So off to buy some No10 x 38mm stainless self-tapping torx head screws to experiment with. If it worked, it would provide the most 'original looking' fix. If it didn't work, it was out with the zip ties, and if I struggled with that, it was going to be the M4 bolts glued into the lower housing.

First, using a dremel, I removed the first 12 mm or so of threads from the head end of the screws (as per the original screws) to allow them to spin in the upper airbox holes. Did a dry run setting up the screws using the old filter, so the threads were just about to engage in what remained of the holes. Left that setting, out to the car and using the new genuine filter, fitted the filter to top half first, press all way around to seat, pop whole assembly onto the bottom half and carefully screw up (gently) going around carefully on opposite sides. Worked well. I was lucky there was just enough plastic left in the holes at the bottom. Was careful not to over-tighten the screws. Stopped when the first bit of decent resistance felt and the box looked sufficiently "together".

A 15 min job that ended up being 3 hours - including getting the airbox out (held by a rubber grommet on the wheel side, and a 4 sided plastic pin through the bottom of the box on the engine side). It pulls of the grommet easily. A big set if pliers allows you to grip all of the 4 pins in the bottom of the box at once to squeeze them together to lift it off the bottom fixing. Easier to do if you release the box from the airflow sensor (2x torx screws) and remove the plastic air induction funnel first (at the front of the box).

Hope this info, along with the other suggestions people have kindly posted, can help others in a similar predicament.