First time DIY... all did NOT go to plan!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by ilmiont

Pre-holiday status then:

- No oil change I suppose in the scheme of things doing what will be about 10-12k on the same oil isn't too bad and still better than many cars see, but not what I'm really comfortable with for long-term health based on the colour change observed over the past couple of thousand miles.
- Tank filled, but with E10. I can't really be choosey in the present circumstances and am optimistic we'll find some premium grade once further north. As tomorrow's mostly a motorway day I'll just be happy I've got something to run on, I know that's more than some unfortunate people this week.
- Undertray fitted for the first time in who knows how long. Sump and belts protected on what looks like it could be a very wet day.

The sump plug saga may resume later in the month. A neighbour has offered to lend me a blow torch. I don't know that I trust myself to try that!

Photos of the plug as it is today





(notice how the sump bulges out directly above the plug - there is limited clearance for vice grips or a pipe wrench without scraping it, which I don't want to do)

The head was rounded the first time I got under the car, now it's really rounded and gnarled by vice grips and twist sockets.

I don't think running the oil on for another week will be an issue - enjoy your holiday. E10 will be fine in your motor car.

That sump plug looks rounded off enough to find another nut that would slip over quite neatly, then weld through the hole with an arc welder. I don't know whether you have an arc welder or not - but they are pretty common and if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself there will be a chap nearby able to do it for not a lot of money. It would be a 5 minute job if you had already found a nut that fits and for someone with their kit already set up.

Have a good holiday.

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by andy_d

i Hear that

stahlbus® oil drain valve

Fits ala , with its dust/dirt cover in place


and the extention tube is a "fit to drain" item rather than "fitted to the car"






fitting as it does, With a "dirt cover" Should be "speed hump/lovely road surface safe"

https://youtu.be/eaaT5a13xY8[YOUTUBE]https://youtu.be/eaaT5a13xY8[/YOUTUBE]
manuf Video


agree the "tap" shape ones , esp with the "lift to drain" lever May not be the best idea given the "lovely" state of the roads

The sump plug on mine is on the underside of the sump Andy, goes in and out vertically so adding that valve to mine would certainly be asking for trouble. In your pics, it could work well but definitely need something to keep it clean!

[andy_d]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The sump plug on mine is on the underside of the sump Andy, goes in and out vertically so adding that valve to mine would certainly be asking for trouble. In your pics, it could work well but definitely need something to keep it clean!

same with the Op's chewed plug "may well work" and the dust/dirt cap is in the blister pack

agree on a vertical plug your a bit Too close to "the lovely road surface" never mind "speed bumps" (why the fog they can not teach kids "cars are on roads cars hurt" and get shot of the things, and IF plod did its job re speeding in residential areas even less BS "need" for the horrible things)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by andy_d

same with the Op's chewed plug "may well work" and the dust/dirt cap is in the blister pack

agree on a vertical plug your a bit Too close to "the lovely road surface" never mind "speed bumps" (why the fog they can not teach kids "cars are on roads cars hurt" and get shot of the things, and IF plod did its job re speeding in residential areas even less BS "need" for the horrible things)

Wholeheartedly agree with your sentiments on speed humps and similar Andy, no need if everyone drove as they should - according to the road conditions. Most do regardless of humps or whatever else so again it's the minority (or should that be the moronity?) of a few idiots causing expensive problems for the rest of us!

Dig up the speed humps and use the recovered material to fill in all the poxy potholes! Another expensive exercise that has recently cost me two new tyres and would have cost me another £80 for two wheel alignment adjustments except for the fact i have a Trrackace and do it myself now.

[ITSv40]

There is nothing wrong with the standard sump plug - if torqued correctly - which in ilmoint's case, I'm sure it will be. My previous V40 did 370,000mls and still on the original plug and still perfectly serviceable - oil changed every 5-7000mls, so it had seen some use. Torqued correctly everytime as with the filter housing. One of the joys of working on your own car is you set your own standards. In the words of Henry Royce: whatsoever rightly done, however humble, is noble.

[DaveNP]

Originally Posted by ITSv40

There is nothing wrong with the standard sump plug - if torqued correctly - ...

I've can't remember needing to replace a sump plug in any car I've had, but I do replace the sump plug washer, on the V70 it is a flat washer made of a softer white metal, on other cars it has been a crushable copper thing. Looking at Ilmiont's picture the washer is there but I wonder if a previous mechanic has used excessive force to ensure a seal with a reused washer?

edit: I quite often buy two washers, one to fit and one for the glovebox ready for next time when I buy a filter and forget to buy a washer

[Bob Meadows]

Another possibility is that someone has used a thread locking liquid:~
Unnecessary under normal circumstances but it can happen- heat will have to be applied to breakdown the seal- a plumbers gas torch will suffice.
Bob.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by DaveNP

I've can't remember needing to replace a sump plug in any car I've had, but I do replace the sump plug washer, on the V70 it is a flat washer made of a softer white metal, on other cars it has been a crushable copper thing. Looking at Ilmiont's picture the washer is there but I wonder if a previous mechanic has used excessive force to ensure a seal with a reused washer?

edit: I quite often buy two washers, one to fit and one for the glovebox ready for next time when I buy a filter and forget to buy a washer

The crush washers are either copper or aluminium (the white metal) both of which will squash and spread if reused and particularly if overtightened to achieve a seal on a used washer.
Often this overtightening and resultant squashing forces the washer to "lock" the thread which has been made worse by some chimp using the wrong sized spanner on the OPs sump plug.

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Another possibility is that someone has used a thread locking liquid:~
Unnecessary under normal circumstances but it can happen- heat will have to be applied to breakdown the seal- a plumbers gas torch will suffice.
Bob.

That's a possibility but given there would have been oil present in the sump threads, probably wouldn't have worked.

[Bob Meadows]

Plenty of thread lock liquids that will tolerate oils Dave- I've also used low torque types on oily threads by cleaning off with cellulose thinners first, worked fine.
Bob.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Plenty of thread lock liquids that will tolerate oils Dave- I've also used low torque types on oily threads by cleaning off with cellulose thinners first, worked fine.
Bob.

I think you are probably right there Bob. It could be that someone has used some thread lock on the sump plug, perhaps he/she didn’t change the washer as well and had to do it up too tight. Perhaps a few circumstances conspired to make this bolt hard to shift. A bit of heat might solve the adhesive (if there is any), after that I’d probably try the chisel method Dave suggested, and if that doesn’t work I’d weld something (probably a larger nut) on to the sump plug.

Just my ideas.

Alan