|
140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
Information |
|
164 brakesViews : 2450 Replies : 18Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Nov 27th, 2021, 23:10 | #11 |
Master Member
Last Online: Yesterday 15:28
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Alberta
|
“ No, brake warning switch not removed - thought would just let air enter through there? Or it it not opening into hydraulic system just into space between both circuits? ”
No air will enter and no fluid will leak out as that’s the way it’s designed. Here’s a screenshot from the Service manual for the 1800E, I believe it’s identical to yours, the warning valve switch is the same for the 164, 140 and 1800. Figure 5-40 in the attached is incorrect. It should show the piston moved to the right, and the plastic plunger extended into the narrow part of the piston. Last edited by c1800; Nov 28th, 2021 at 00:58. |
Nov 28th, 2021, 01:44 | #12 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 10:02
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Limassol
|
164 brakes
Fully agree re oil level and will see if can adapt to include secondary reservoir. Reservoir Seals are new - in fact it proved impossible to get the reservoir out of the old seals without risking damage to it so I know once it’s in, the reverse barb on each spigot is very effective indeed with decent seals.
Re 10psi that makes good sense although Volvo workshop tool works at 28 psi so actually a tyre would be about right. That said, I’ve fitted an in-line regulator and gauge so will aim to throttle back to minimum - 10 sounds sensible - particularly if only using the MC reservoir where I don’t want a super-fast fluid flow rate. Will be interesting….. |
The Following User Says Thank You to TonyCy For This Useful Post: |
Nov 28th, 2021, 01:47 | #13 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 10:02
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Limassol
|
164 brakes
Thanks re switch explanation and yes it’s same as the 164, looking at pics. Will take it out tomorrow.
|
The Following User Says Thank You to TonyCy For This Useful Post: |
Nov 28th, 2021, 15:17 | #14 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 10:02
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Limassol
|
164 brakes
Short update. Used home made pressure bleeder successfully, bled through all, clearly pressure is the only way to go as seems much better after short drive.
Thanks to all who shared experience. I would like to share a further thought - in these challenging times where borders are firming either through C19 or a wave of rising nationalism or both I noticed I was getting responses irrespective borders from Canada, US and elsewhere, to this small corner of the east Med, from people with a shared interest and passion. Brilliant, lifting to see, thanks again. Hopefully I can return the favour in the future! |
The Following User Says Thank You to TonyCy For This Useful Post: |
Nov 29th, 2021, 02:23 | #15 |
Master Member
Last Online: Yesterday 15:28
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Alberta
|
Tiny, glad you’ve got it done. Appreciate your comments.
The world of classic Volvos knows no borders! |
Nov 29th, 2021, 03:13 | #16 |
Master Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:20
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
|
If you are bleeding the brakes using the pedal pump method, the normal procedure is to unscrew the contact part of the switch from the brake failure sensor assembly. The pedal pump method creates a fair amount of brake fluid pressure which can cause the piston in the sensor to move and the switch to operate when you bleed one of the circuits (the equivalent of one of the brake lines splitting in use). When you close the bleeder nipple and restore pressure on both sides of the piston it may attempt to move back to its normal position jamming the little pin on the actual switch. The pin may break or you may find yourself with a permanent brake failure indication if the pin jams in the operated position. Bleeding uses a pressure bleeder avoids this problem because the actual fluid pressures in the system are quite low and should not cause the switch to operate.
|
Nov 29th, 2021, 10:02 | #17 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 29th, 2021 10:02
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Limassol
|
164 brakes
Thanks and can see why this might happen. As I didn’t take it out when bleeding before (and yes then I didn’t follow instructions to the letter it seems) would it be obvious if switch trigger is damaged? I’ve taken it out, just looks like black plastic pin - hard to see if it maybe had more on end before. Also, looking into the hole where it fits, can see piston there with line on - I’m assuming that’s the central mark? I’m loath to open everything again just to check centralised tbh.
|
Nov 29th, 2021, 16:55 | #18 |
Master Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:20
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
|
I don't know whether the piston re centers itself once equal pressure is established in both circuits. I have never had to manually push the piston back in place; but, I have always flushed / bled the system using a pressure bleeder.
If the end of the plastic pin does not look mangled and the brake system warning light is not staying on after you release the parking brake, then you are probably good to go. If the warning light is staying on, then you know where to look first. |
Dec 3rd, 2021, 22:40 | #19 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Jun 12th, 2024 18:46
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: San Leandro, California
|
I believe the brake lines that go to the calipers tend to swell from the inside, possibly to the point where they are severely restricted, without showing any evidence of this problem externally. I suspect this might cause or contribute to your problem if this is the case on your car.
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|