Intermittent Starting Problems

[JMallows]

Hi all. I have a 1988 240GL estate. Recently it has not started for me, and I would appreciate some assistance where possible. I will try to give as much information as I can.

This was my Dads car since 1992, and he gave it me in 2021, so I've had it nearly two years trouble free.

He had a new main pump under the car, new fuel pump relay and fuse 6 replaced with a blade fuse - due to the usual symptoms of not starting intermittently.

The in tank pump does not work - I think. The main pump buzzes when fuel gets to half way. He did ask the garage at the time to replace, but they said it doesn’t have one - we both think they are wrong, but I haven’t got round to sorting it myself yet.

The other day it just turned over for a long time and would not start for me. I assumed fuel pump. I thought it would be fuse 4 - slightly corroded. When I got home (used another car) I tried it again and it started ok. I then tried a few times - no problem if a little rough running.

I did a test - I suspected fuse 4 so removed it - and the car still started. I had sort of considered this as the in-tank pump doesn’t work anyway. Fuse 6 looks as new, and the relay looks as new.

I took it down the road, it was a little hesitant/rough on cold but warmed up and was ok.

This morning - no start again. Got home this afternoon (used different car again), and then it started ok - took a while to turn but not anything unusual. It started ok a few times, but was running rough (I have a video - can I upload it here?). I let it warm up by idling - it was still a little rough. Swapped fuel pump relay for the old one - same.

It has been running rough on cold/hot at idle for a while - gradually getting worse. Dad said it was the throttle body that needs to be cleaned. He's had this before.

So I have some questions:
1) Would a dirty throttle body cause starting issues?
2) Should I have green or white fuel pump relay?
3) Should I have an in-tank pump?
4) In-tank pump wouldn’t affect starting, would it?
5) Anything else to try?

Thanks in advance. I was planning on a new car soon - so I want to fix this really - was hoping to sell it on here - or to an enthusiast rather than part exchange.

[Bugjam1999]

Hi,

1. A dirty throttle body can cause idling issues, presumably it could cause starting issues as well. They’re very easy to clean, along with the metering lift plate (not sure of the correct name) within the big rubber bellows under the inlet manifold. I’d go ahead and clean both. The big rubber bellows has a big jubilee clip too and bottom, remove those and then the bellows, then clean everything you see inside.

2. You have a j-ket system, so a green relay

3./4. You should have an intank pump and tbh I’m surprised the car runs ok without it. My car wasn’t drivable when the in tank pump failed. They’re not expensive, I’d replace it and see how the car runs then.

5. There’s an s-bend 15mm ish diameter rubber hose leading from the inlet manifold, make sure that isn’t perished and is properly seated on both ends. My car stopped running when that came unseated.

The fueling is half of the game- are the plugs, distributor cap and rotor, leads etc. in good condition? 240s can be difficult to start if the ignition system isn’t in good condition.

Cheers

[JMallows]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

Hi,

1. A dirty throttle body can cause idling issues, presumably it could cause starting issues as well. They’re very easy to clean, along with the metering lift plate (not sure of the correct name) within the big rubber bellows under the inlet manifold. I’d go ahead and clean both. The big rubber bellows has a big jubilee clip too and bottom, remove those and then the bellows, then clean everything you see inside.

2. You have a j-ket system, so a green relay

3./4. You should have an intank pump and tbh I’m surprised the car runs ok without it. My car wasn’t drivable when the in tank pump failed. They’re not expensive, I’d replace it and see how the car runs then.

5. There’s an s-bend 15mm ish diameter rubber hose leading from the inlet manifold, make sure that isn’t perished and is properly seated on both ends. My car stopped running when that came unseated.

The fueling is half of the game- are the plugs, distributor cap and rotor, leads etc. in good condition? 240s can be difficult to start if the ignition system isn’t in good condition.

Cheers

1) Throttle body cleaned up, the vacuum hose running from there to the distributor had split - so replaced. This seems to have helped the acceleration which was a bit hesitant/unsmooth at time.

2) Thanks - replaced this and the problems with starting have gone away now - the inside of the relay didn't look too good, so obviously the problem.

3/4) Its on the list!

5) Something to check thanks, though all seems good now as said.

Thanks for helping.