Clutch Slave or Master cylinder?

[Metallo]

Hi All,

Polar 940 SW Turbo 2.0l - 1997

Last year, I replaced the clutch slave cylinder with a brand new one, same brand as the genuine I replaced: FTE-KN22031B1.

I replaced it because my clutch pedal got stuck at the bottom multiple times and didn't release. However, it was evident that the issue was the slave cylinder when I disassembled it.

Today, I got in the same situation again, but I cannot believe that only after one year, the slave cylinder is the problem again.

Luckily it released again after a few attempts, so I could continue my drive home.

Is there a way to see if the problem is the slave or the master?
Of course, I will check the slave first, but I never changed the master cylinder.

Your advice is always welcome!

Thank you,
Alessandro

[classicswede]

I have had this issue before. The cause was the spring broken in the master cylinder

[Metallo]

Originally Posted by classicswede

I have had this issue before. The cause was the spring broken in the master cylinder

Thank you for your feedback.

Well, I guess tomorrow I will put my car on cribs and slide under to check the slave cylinder first, if everything is normal there, then I will have to look at the Master.

In case the Master is the problem, what is the recommendation:

Buy a new Master cylinder or use a rebuild kit?

I see that Haynes has good instructions on how to remove the Master Cylinder, but just in case, are there any other documentation available?

Thank you,
Alessandro

[Arthur1330]

Originally Posted by classicswede

I have had this issue before. The cause was the spring broken in the master cylinder

Never knew there was a spring in there! - This would explain why my clutch pedal doesn't always return fully after replacing the slave...

[lynns hubby]

I don't know if you can still get a seal kit for them. I was told by my factor that they no longer do a kit as it is usually needed in circumstances like this and if the spring has broken, it scores the bore. That was just my factor though. When I was in a similar situation, I bought a used master from a breakers and stripped it down and cleaned up first to make sure it was serviceable. I measured the bore and found a set of seals on line. Rebuilt and just swapped out.

[baggy798]

My clutch pedal moved closer to the floor (~2-3") and was harder to get into gear. If I pull it back upwards with my foot, it returns to where it should be and normal shifting is restored (until the next morning). I've been doing that the last 2 years!

Did yours start to fail like this first or did it go straight to getting stuck on the floor?

Prior to that I bought a master cylinder from autodoc as I was going to change it. FTE 2114419 is the original one and you can still get them.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/fte/15249425

[Arthur1330]

Originally Posted by baggy798

My clutch pedal moved closer to the floor (~2-3") and was harder to get into gear. If I pull it back upwards with my foot, it returns to where it should be and normal shifting is restored (until the next morning). I've been doing that the last 2 years!

Did yours start to fail like this first or did it go straight to getting stuck on the floor?

Prior to that I bought a master cylinder from autodoc as I was going to change it. FTE 2114419 is the original one and you can still get them.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/fte/15249425

That's hilarious as that is what I've been doing! I replaced the slave but it's still the same so it can only be the master cylinder...

[classicswede]

If the spring is broken then the only option is to replace the full unit. Not a fan of seal kits as usually half the problem is the unit is worn. I stock both repro and original TRW cylinders