240 General: - Cooling system - what a pain!

PTJS · Oct 9th, 2007, 12:51

Have just changed the antifreeze on my 1988 240GL, put new hoses on, new thermostat and housing as running cold and housing badly corroded with hole in it when I came to clean it up.

Unlike my earlier 240DL there was no drain tap on the block so, quite wrongly, I assumed that the vast majority of water would drain out from the disconnected bottom hose. After flushing and back flushing the system, putting the new hoses and bits on I pre mixed the antifreeze and struggled to get 5 litres. This meant that the block was retaining around 5 litres and I now have understrength solution in it. I topped the expansion tank up with a litre of neat antifreeze in and reckon I have about 30% strength overall. Will run it for a bit and then have to drain some off and put some more neat in to get the correct strength.

Just thought I would mention this problem in case anyone is thinking of doing the same.

Phil

CTCNetwork · Oct 9th, 2007, 13:02

Hi,

I am about to do my 240's coolant and was having a quick look for the drain plug/hose point but couldn't see one..

Where was it located on your previous 240DL??

I assume that the heater matrix will retain some coolant, maybe a liter and a half??

Des. . .

PTJS · Oct 9th, 2007, 16:37

From memory it was I think below and to the left of the oil filter. I think it was a nifty brass fitting too!

Hope you find one.

Phil

Clifford Pope · Oct 10th, 2007, 08:06

All my 240s have had drain taps, including the 1993 Torslanda. It's hard to spot, tucked right up under the exhaust manifold by the rear cylinder, partly hidden by the heater pipe.

niloc · Oct 10th, 2007, 08:50

Easily visible from below! To the rear of cylinder 4, around the height of the top of the bellhousing, exhaust side.

CTCNetwork · Oct 10th, 2007, 08:58

Hi,

So, even the drain tap will leave a good quantity of coolant in the block?

Sounds like using that and the lower pipe from the block is the way to go then...

Des. . .

Clifford Pope · Oct 10th, 2007, 12:48

Tips:
Open the heater valve when draining
Backflush with a hosepipe
Put the calculated amount of neat antifreeze in first, then top up.

Alec Dawe · Oct 10th, 2007, 19:29

Next tip:- after filling the system, leave the heater valve open, and start the car with the expansion tank cap off. Keep checking to see if the heater is actually getting hot as the engine warms up, as with mine, I found that you could airlock the heater matrix if it was shut off, and/or if the expansion tank cap was put on too soon.
Giving the top hase a squeeze occasionally as the engine warms also seemed to help getting the heater back in circuit (this may just have been imagination tho)!

Oct 9th, 2007, 12:51	#1
PTJS Master Member Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Derby	Cooling system - what a pain! Have just changed the antifreeze on my 1988 240GL, put new hoses on, new thermostat and housing as running cold and housing badly corroded with hole in it when I came to clean it up. Unlike my earlier 240DL there was no drain tap on the block so, quite wrongly, I assumed that the vast majority of water would drain out from the disconnected bottom hose. After flushing and back flushing the system, putting the new hoses and bits on I pre mixed the antifreeze and struggled to get 5 litres. This meant that the block was retaining around 5 litres and I now have understrength solution in it. I topped the expansion tank up with a litre of neat antifreeze in and reckon I have about 30% strength overall. Will run it for a bit and then have to drain some off and put some more neat in to get the correct strength. Just thought I would mention this problem in case anyone is thinking of doing the same. Phil

Oct 9th, 2007, 13:02	#2
CTCNetwork Forum Support Team Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Liège, Belgium View Photos By: CTCNetwork	Hi, I am about to do my 240's coolant and was having a quick look for the drain plug/hose point but couldn't see one.. Where was it located on your previous 240DL?? I assume that the heater matrix will retain some coolant, maybe a liter and a half?? Des. . . __________________ Density:- Not just a measurement ~ It's a whole way of Life.! ! ! I drive a Volvo, Please Don't Get In My Way! OldVolvos4Ever He shows up. People die. He vanishes. People should not be afraid of their governments. "He'll deliver more justice in a weekend than 10 years of your Governments should be afraid of their people... "V" courts & tribunals. Just stay out of his way." "I plan to."

Oct 10th, 2007, 08:50	#5
niloc SWV Benefactor Last Online: Jan 30th, 2013 13:44 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Newport, South Wales	Easily visible from below! To the rear of cylinder 4, around the height of the top of the bellhousing, exhaust side. __________________ Refitting is the reverse of removal???.....Yeah, right!

Oct 10th, 2007, 08:58	#6
CTCNetwork Forum Support Team Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Liège, Belgium View Photos By: CTCNetwork	Hi, So, even the drain tap will leave a good quantity of coolant in the block? Sounds like using that and the lower pipe from the block is the way to go then... Des. . . __________________ Density:- Not just a measurement ~ It's a whole way of Life.! ! ! I drive a Volvo, Please Don't Get In My Way! OldVolvos4Ever He shows up. People die. He vanishes. People should not be afraid of their governments. "He'll deliver more justice in a weekend than 10 years of your Governments should be afraid of their people... "V" courts & tribunals. Just stay out of his way." "I plan to."

Oct 10th, 2007, 19:29	#8
Alec Dawe Former Support Team Last Online: Jan 26th, 2024 11:26 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Nr Norwich	Next tip:- after filling the system, leave the heater valve open, and start the car with the expansion tank cap off. Keep checking to see if the heater is actually getting hot as the engine warms up, as with mine, I found that you could airlock the heater matrix if it was shut off, and/or if the expansion tank cap was put on too soon. Giving the top hase a squeeze occasionally as the engine warms also seemed to help getting the heater back in circuit (this may just have been imagination tho)! __________________ Alec. (My other car is a WD 2-10-0)

Oct 9th, 2007, 16:37	#3
PTJS Master Member Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Derby	From memory it was I think below and to the left of the oil filter. I think it was a nifty brass fitting too! Hope you find one. Phil

Oct 10th, 2007, 08:06	#4
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Today 08:08 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	All my 240s have had drain taps, including the 1993 Torslanda. It's hard to spot, tucked right up under the exhaust manifold by the rear cylinder, partly hidden by the heater pipe.

Oct 10th, 2007, 12:48	#7
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Today 08:08 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	Tips: Open the heater valve when draining Backflush with a hosepipe Put the calculated amount of neat antifreeze in first, then top up.

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