Air Con again!

[Chris_Rogers]

I had the same problem and was the author of the thread you have looked at.

To prove the point:
Leave the engine and ignition switched off.
Remove the AC relay from the fuse/relay box behind the air filter. Short out the two larger connections in the relay socket, the compressor clutch should engage smartly. You will probably find it goes in slowly or may just makes a noise.
If it does not engage give it a push it will probably go in.
After a few minutes remove the short to disengage it and try again, it will probably fail to go in until the coil has cooled

To adjust the clutch (which I have done) you will have to remove the compressor from it's mountings to gain enough clearance.
You can leave the AC lines connected.

You will also need to make up a puller to get the clutch plate off.

I made the puller this way:
If you look at the clutch plate there are 3 x 5mm threaded holes to attach a puller. Use a piece of 3mm thick steel and drill 3 x 5mm clearance holes in it to match the 3 holes in the clutch plate.

You will need 3 x 5mm steel studs about 50 mm long, at least 3 5mm nuts and a 6mm threaded bolt about 50 mm long to replace the existing bolt in the middle of the clutch.

Method:
Engage the clutch as described above and loosen the 6mm bolt (10mm head) that holds the clutch plate to the compressor shaft.
Disengage the clutch.
Remove the drive belt & dismount the compressor to gain enough clearance to remove the clutch plate.

Remove the 6mm bolt you loosened above and replace with the longer 6mm bolt.
Fit the steel plate with the 3 x 5 mm holes to the clutch plate with the three studs and tighten down evenly onto the 6 mm bolt thus pulling off the clutch plate.

Be careful not to loose the shims.

Remove sufficent shims to get the clearance back in spec.

Use the original 6mm bolt to pull the clutch plate back on the shaft.
Engage the cluch again for final tightening of the 6mm bolt once you have it all back together.

Replace the AC relay.

Good Luck!

[Chris_Rogers]

I don't know what year but the only way is to have a look at your own car, even if it had one originally someone may have removed it.

My experience with a '96 850 was that the original evaporator failed after two years. (There was no original pollen filter fitted)
The evaporator was replaced under warantee by Volvo they also retro fitted the pollen filter.
The AC was still OK when I sold the car 5 years later.
I did keep the AC on (ECC) all the time, replace the pollen filter evey 10k miles and had the gas drained and recharged evey two years.
So I would suggest that the maintenance of the pollen filter etc. is required to aviod problems.

[GrahamB]

Chris
Thanks for the information. I proved the fault to the clutch by giving it a little tap when it failed to engage with the engine running and it clicked in. Although I have not yet found a name, I believe that it is a Sanden compressor. Your procedure is obviously different from that on the Seiko compressor on the SAAB shown in the reference and unfortunately more complex, but I will look very carefully to see whether I can follow it.
I had a word with my ex-Volvo mechanic friend today and he said that it was a pig of a job involving taking the compressor out, recharge and all that. Your way at least avoids that. Incidentally are you referring to a V70 and do you work from underneath or from the top, which would appear to involve taking the alternator out?
I was considering an alternative approach of slightly increasing the voltage to the clutch by some electrical or electronic means, but I have got far with that yet.
Thanks again, I will advise when I have done the job or perhaps seek further advice half way through!

G'day Wolfgang,

Roads, what roads.

Volvo Australia has a 12 months warranty on parts. Not a minute more.

All my evaps failed either from the inside out or split at the seams.

I battled with Bloody Volvo Australia for so long over this evap that now, after 30 years of being a Volvo owner, I have finally given up and will move on.

After about 3 months of battles they finally donated the part and I had to pay for the installation.

What Bloody Volvo Australia has done is to drive a loyal supporter away because of peanuts and their belief that I am a Bloody Volvo Driver. Their performance indicates that they see me as Bloody, an interruption to their day.

I would most certainly by another Volvo but not a new vehicle. Only one that is out of warranty so there would be no need to be connected with BVA.

What really upsets me is that I was about to purchase a new V50 and a V70. So there are no winner in all this.

Volvo make great cars. Their administration is wanting.

Regards,

Richard

Hi Richard

Me thinks you are not happy - don't blame you. You are discouraging me from contacting Volvo. If the warranty is 12 months then it is a waste anyway. Interesting about the mode of failure of so many of your evaps, I will have to ask the guys at C&M when I have occasion to next take the car to them.

I must say, it is a complete contrast when comparing your experiences with all of the stuff that gushes out of the Volvo quarterly mag! I guess this reflects the difference between marketing and nuts-n-bolts standing behind the product.

I purchased my 96 850R for a (very) good price second hand with 140k kms on the clock, so I guess I adopted the same approach as you WRT out of warranty. I figure I can pay for a few evaps, ECC sensors and motors, a clutch or two, lots of brake bits, some ABS computers, and all the other bits that fail and still have a relatively cost effective low depreciation car that is a hoot to drive and reasonably easy on the juice. They tell me it is safe if I have a big lose too, but don't plan to go there.

Regards
Wolfgang

[Chris_Rogers]

I'll try and answer the questions in turn.

Compressor manufacturer is Zexel.
The principle of gap adjustment is the same as that shown in the link, the detail of the clutch is slightly different.

Car:
My old shape V70 2.4T, 2000 model year.

Work from underneath (remove the splash guard first).
Note you will need a long 12mm ring spanner to work the aux belt tensioner (from the top).

Leave the alternator in place.

The compressor will drop down after removing the four mounting bolts and can then be supported between the engine and the vehicle frame.
It would be wise to remove the electrical connection to the clutch first in case you end up breaking the wire.
You can then 'fiddle' the compressor around to get just enough working room.
This is a fiddly job and requires patience, but the cost savings over removing the compressor, regassing etc. made me think it worthwhile.
Allow all day to do it, make up the puller first. I took a 'rubbing' of the clutch plate to get the dimensions correct for drilling the puller plate.

I've used my home made puller to restore two other compressors, both from 850's, these were removed from the car so much easier!

I considered trying to improve the voltage at the clutch, many people have installed an additional relay operated from the original clutch wire and used this to switch a direct feed from the battery to the clutch. I discounted it for the following reasons:

1 It would take just as long to do as adjusting the clutch.
2 It would introduce something else to go wrong.
3 I was not confident it would work for long.
Note the problem is caused by wear, this occures when there is slip between the driven pulley and the clutch plate. As the magnetic force declines due to the excessive gap there is more slip/wear and the problem accelerates. Adjusting the gap back to the lower spec limit should give the same service life back to the clutch.

Have a go, it's not that bad to do.

[GrahamB]

Chris
Thanks again - I am not sure when I can get around to doing the job. I have a gutted bathroom to rebuild first - if I wish to retain my wife!

Hi Wolfgang,

Sure I am not happy. I had a pen in my hand about to buy a V70 and a V50.

I have had some real good situations in the past with Volvo Australia but since Ford arrived things at Volvo Australia have just gone down hill.

They treated me like a fool and this makes me unhappy as all I wanted to do was to buy these vehicles and be treated with a little respect. I guess, that is what I got, " little respect".

Try talking to the dealer where you got the work done. Sometimes the dealers, especially the sales people, respond in a positive way and maybe you can get something from them.

The Volvo quarterly mag!! mmmmmmm lots of colour but short on substance. Have a look at Honda and Suburu. These are other brands that we have in our family. The mags tend to offer lots of information. Maybe they feel that there is no need just to produce a glossy to cover up short falls.

Please do not misunderstand. My 850 is the best car for me. Every day is a pleasure for me to drive.

It is just Bloody Volvo Australia that gets up my nose.

Regards,

Richard S

[pettaw]

and also make sure the drain hose is clear to avoid debris and moisture gathering on the evap.

I have a 17 year old 360 with A/C and it blows colder than the new Volvo and when I took the system apart to fix the seals it had no corrosion on it, but it was very dirty as the car has no filters on it.