480 2.0 Auto cutting out HELP!!!

[david_940]

My mum has a 1995 480 2.0 Auto, it drives lovely except for it cutting out when coming to a stop. It's also sometimes difficult to start from cold. If you have any ideas what this might be please help

Our local specialist is suggesting that we should change the ECU behind the dash, any opinions on this would be appreciated.

I had a 340 with the 1.7 renault engine which had a similar fault. It turned out to be a valve in the brake servo pipe. Do 480's have the same valve.

[veegard]

He should give you a good reason, it might as well be.. I don't know, bad plugs, bad battery or something like that?
ECUs on these cars suck, and I swapped mine, but that was for different reasons.

[B20F]

It turned out to be a valve in the brake servo pipe. Do 480's have the same valve.

Yes, the no return valve is located in the hose between brake booster and inlet manifold. It's integrated in the hose, you have to replace the complete hose.
Another cause could be the flywheel sensor. It's known for the tip of the sensor to become dirty and causing all kinds of intermittend problems. It's located on the joint between engine and gearbox, right under the throttle housing. You see a half moon shaped bracket with a black cable hold down by two 10mm bolts. Remove the bracket and clean the tip from the sensor with contactcleaner and a toothbrush. It's an easy 15min job.

[david_940]

Thanks gents we'll give these ago first Will still have a flywheel sensor with it being an auto?

[B20F]

Will still have a flywheel sensor with it being an auto?

Yes. Every injected car has one.

[david_940]

Thanks! Found it The end bit is full of debris and slightly rusty, just sent my mum out for some contact cleaner. Fingers crossed.

[B20F]

If that doesn't do the job, read the faultcodes from the diagnostic box which is located on the lefthand shocktower. After you noted the codes from socket #2, disconnect the earth from the battery for 10min. Go for a drive of about 10mls and read the codes again. The ecu has to reset itself after you disconnected the battery, so for the first few mls it will run a bit crap. This is normal, should return to normal after that. The old codes are out of the system after disconnecting, so after the test drive the only codes that remain are faults.
Here is the manual for using the diagn.box:
http://www.troublecodes.net/Volvo/

[david_940]

Well, looking good so far. Could be the nice weather but starting easier and not stalled yet today . Also disconnected the battery last night and cleaned the terminals up and applied some copper slip, whilst I was tinkering I sprayed WD40 on pretty much everything and reseated the relays at the bottom of the windscreen. Also cleaned a couple of the earthing points.

Just need to get the speedo working again now and need to get the engine temp gauge to read somthing other than cold I reckon the latter will also be a sensor. Not a good idea to by a car from a seaside town!

Thanks for your help!