Misc 460 issues - Page 3

B20F · Feb 12th, 2009, 16:31

You should test the fuel pressure. Could be that the pressure regulator is bad.
The fuel pressure of a B20F should be 300kPa. Or the fuel return hose to the tank is blocked. You can check that one by disconnecting it and try to blow through it. Should go easy. If the pressure is too high the injectors will inject too much fuel.

bvs · Feb 12th, 2009, 19:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by veegard

Hey there, bvs!
It has only happened three times, and it it has always been just fine the next time I drive it!
So.. I haven't really thought about it lately, and haven't jacked it up to check. If it happens again, I'll go check. Until then, I'm just worrying about the fuel consumption in the meanwhile >_>

Hi VG
When you have time,you could remove wheel,remove brake pads and clean up caliper in the areas adjacent to the pad,rust can build up around the pads and prevent them moving back (brakes off) and cause brake binding on that side.
A damaged disc/pads can also cause this !

regards baz

veegard · Feb 13th, 2009, 16:28

Thanks to both of you!
B20F, I've never disconnected a fuel line before.. As long as the main fuel system relay is off (just having the ignition turned off), there shouldn't be too much pressure there, right? I think I remember reading a post here, or over at volvo-forums about how you can lower the pressure.. Disconnecting the so the pump stops while running, was it? And is that hazardous to the engine, or would it just choke and die?
How do I measure the pressure there, do I have to fit a gauge?

Also, breaking news, the diagnostics box gave me errors toda, after I've driven it home from work!
My first symptom today is that I checked the odometer compared to fuel gauge. About 45% fuel left on the gauge, and about 210km driven. That means a lovely 35 l / 210 km. This car should run on 8l / 100 km, mine uses about 17l / 100km :|

My unit told me the following:
1-3-2 : INCORRECT BATTERY VOLTAGE
and
3-1-3 : CHARCOAL CANISTER SIGNAL FAULTY

The incorrect battery voltage thing may indicate a bad alternator? Which voltage should I have when the car is running, and does it take time until that voltage is acheived, during i.e. cold weather?
How long should my stereo (a normal cd player, and two front speakers powered by a nice Genesis amplifier in the back) be able to play without me having to switch on the alternator? Had to jump it after half an hour once.. Battery is brand new 62a/h.
Charcoal canisters are the canisters that will catch evaporating gas, so there won't be excessive fumes from the engine bay, right?
Like on old cars from the 50's, when they stop at stoplights, they have this fume smoke in front of the car.
Now, I don't have that, but I can sometimes smell something like gasoline when i go out of the car when I park it. I don't know where this canister is, and if it's possible that it's leaking through it.. Does someone have more information about these?

B20F · Feb 13th, 2009, 18:37

The charcoal cannister is fitted behind the right fender, with 2 fuel hoses attached to it and a valve. You can check the valve by listening to it. Put the probe from the dia box in socket 2. Put the contact on, press the small button from the dia box 3 times with 0,5 interval. This will start a complete test of the fuel system. The first sequence is the test for the injectors, they will click 13times per second(13hertz), then the idle valve will click with 1 hertz, then the charcoal cannister valve will click with 2 hertz.
You can test the alternator by taking a multimeter, set it on 20volt and connect it to the battery, with the engine idling the multimeter should read around 13,8 volts. If it's lower than 13 volts the alternator is on it's way out.
To measure the fuelpressure go to a garage, they can do it for you, a pressure gauge is needed. The fuelhoses can you just remove, be prepared to some fuel loose, have a towel at hand to catch excessive spill. Wait till engine is cold and disconnect the earth lead from the battery before working on the fuel system!

veegard · Feb 13th, 2009, 23:33

You came to my rescue again!

The voltage is usually fine.. and says 13.8v.
But I have a voltmeter/thermometer under my dash, but it was a mate that hooked it up for me when we were working on the car when I just got it.. Maybe he has it wired to something that has a load, because sometimes it will dip down a couple of volts, and very oftenly it will start giving me voltage alerts, because it says it dips under 11.5volts.
Alternator belt isn't loose, and I've rewired the engine compartment with much better cabling from alternator to battery, battery to gnd, and battery to stereo.
How exactly do they test the pressure in a shop? Cheapest mechanics here are 60£ an hour atleast, volvo charges 90£. If I can get a fuel pressure gauge for 20, then maybe i can just fit it myself.. or is that a bad idea?

I didn't know the diagnostics thing there! I just knew the pressing for 1-3 seconds and retrieve the error codes part, and the clearing of them.

Do you know how a broken canister will effect my car?

B20F · Feb 14th, 2009, 09:24

Quote:

But I have a voltmeter/thermometer under my dash,

Those volvo amp gauges are notorious inaccurate, trust your multimeter. It's a nice gadget, no more then that!
Volvo uses a special pressure gauge. Maybe you can go to a diy garage or a general garage. They are usally a lot cheaper. Or go to a scrapyard and get another one, and see what happens. That way will be cheaper. The pressure regulator is located on the end of the fuel rail. Be sure to get one for a 2ltr, 3.0bar. The turbo''s have a 3.5 bar, maybe a PO put a turbo regulator in? be very carefull when removing fuel lines, work clean so no dirt can enter the hoses! And always disconnect the earth strap from the battery to prevent sparking.
I''m not sure in which way a broken cannister valve will infect fuel consumption, can't help you with that one.

veegard · Feb 14th, 2009, 18:03

Ah, no it's some aftemarked stuff I added in. But not sure if I trust it's readings.
I can give them a call and ask nicely.. maybe they'll help out, since it's an old car and they probably won't get much money out of me anyway.
They are usually a lot more helpful when it comes to older cars.. if you have a '03 V70 they suck you dry.

Feb 12th, 2009, 16:31	#21
B20F Master Member Last Online: Jul 7th, 2016 21:43 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Zeist View Photos By: B20F	You should test the fuel pressure. Could be that the pressure regulator is bad. The fuel pressure of a B20F should be 300kPa. Or the fuel return hose to the tank is blocked. You can check that one by disconnecting it and try to blow through it. Should go easy. If the pressure is too high the injectors will inject too much fuel. __________________

Feb 13th, 2009, 18:37	#24
B20F Master Member Last Online: Jul 7th, 2016 21:43 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Zeist View Photos By: B20F	The charcoal cannister is fitted behind the right fender, with 2 fuel hoses attached to it and a valve. You can check the valve by listening to it. Put the probe from the dia box in socket 2. Put the contact on, press the small button from the dia box 3 times with 0,5 interval. This will start a complete test of the fuel system. The first sequence is the test for the injectors, they will click 13times per second(13hertz), then the idle valve will click with 1 hertz, then the charcoal cannister valve will click with 2 hertz. You can test the alternator by taking a multimeter, set it on 20volt and connect it to the battery, with the engine idling the multimeter should read around 13,8 volts. If it's lower than 13 volts the alternator is on it's way out. To measure the fuelpressure go to a garage, they can do it for you, a pressure gauge is needed. The fuelhoses can you just remove, be prepared to some fuel loose, have a towel at hand to catch excessive spill. Wait till engine is cold and disconnect the earth lead from the battery before working on the fuel system! __________________

Feb 13th, 2009, 16:28	#23
veegard Junior Member Last Online: Mar 5th, 2009 22:11 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rotterdam	Thanks to both of you! B20F, I've never disconnected a fuel line before.. As long as the main fuel system relay is off (just having the ignition turned off), there shouldn't be too much pressure there, right? I think I remember reading a post here, or over at volvo-forums about how you can lower the pressure.. Disconnecting the so the pump stops while running, was it? And is that hazardous to the engine, or would it just choke and die? How do I measure the pressure there, do I have to fit a gauge? Also, breaking news, the diagnostics box gave me errors toda, after I've driven it home from work! My first symptom today is that I checked the odometer compared to fuel gauge. About 45% fuel left on the gauge, and about 210km driven. That means a lovely 35 l / 210 km. This car should run on 8l / 100 km, mine uses about 17l / 100km :\| My unit told me the following: 1-3-2 : INCORRECT BATTERY VOLTAGE and 3-1-3 : CHARCOAL CANISTER SIGNAL FAULTY The incorrect battery voltage thing may indicate a bad alternator? Which voltage should I have when the car is running, and does it take time until that voltage is acheived, during i.e. cold weather? How long should my stereo (a normal cd player, and two front speakers powered by a nice Genesis amplifier in the back) be able to play without me having to switch on the alternator? Had to jump it after half an hour once.. Battery is brand new 62a/h. Charcoal canisters are the canisters that will catch evaporating gas, so there won't be excessive fumes from the engine bay, right? Like on old cars from the 50's, when they stop at stoplights, they have this fume smoke in front of the car. Now, I don't have that, but I can sometimes smell something like gasoline when i go out of the car when I park it. I don't know where this canister is, and if it's possible that it's leaking through it.. Does someone have more information about these?

Feb 13th, 2009, 23:33	#25
veegard Junior Member Last Online: Mar 5th, 2009 22:11 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rotterdam	You came to my rescue again! The voltage is usually fine.. and says 13.8v. But I have a voltmeter/thermometer under my dash, but it was a mate that hooked it up for me when we were working on the car when I just got it.. Maybe he has it wired to something that has a load, because sometimes it will dip down a couple of volts, and very oftenly it will start giving me voltage alerts, because it says it dips under 11.5volts. Alternator belt isn't loose, and I've rewired the engine compartment with much better cabling from alternator to battery, battery to gnd, and battery to stereo. How exactly do they test the pressure in a shop? Cheapest mechanics here are 60£ an hour atleast, volvo charges 90£. If I can get a fuel pressure gauge for 20, then maybe i can just fit it myself.. or is that a bad idea? I didn't know the diagnostics thing there! I just knew the pressing for 1-3 seconds and retrieve the error codes part, and the clearing of them. Do you know how a broken canister will effect my car?

Feb 14th, 2009, 18:03	#27
veegard Junior Member Last Online: Mar 5th, 2009 22:11 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rotterdam	Ah, no it's some aftemarked stuff I added in. But not sure if I trust it's readings. I can give them a call and ask nicely.. maybe they'll help out, since it's an old car and they probably won't get much money out of me anyway. They are usually a lot more helpful when it comes to older cars.. if you have a '03 V70 they suck you dry.

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