Volvo 240 2.3

[vjck_uk]

The changing of axle ratios would not make any difference to the speedo accuracy as it is powered by a sensor on the differential housing and only reads rear axle revolutions no matter what the gearing is.
I must say Ben that to someone with you (albiet young) experience and commitment a cambelt change would be a piece of p***.
The main trouble being to slacken the bottom pulley nut off.
I can do it easy with an impact wrench as I have a compressor.
I have done my 240 twice now and no bother,what I did do the first time around was to put some never seize on the pulley and crankshaft and the second time it just pulled off by hand.
The first time I had to get my hydraulic puller on it (after taking the radiator off).
It explains it step by step how to do it in the Haynes manual.
Regards.
Vaughan

[Ben O Brien]

Hi
i am converting the car to manual but the diff im using is from an auto and if im not mistaken i think that the ratios are different between auto and manual diffs(could be wrong but thought i read that somewhere)
If there is different ratios which diff is best to use for performance,
regarding the timing belt i did actually change one on the b23 out of the 242 and spun it over by hand and everything seemed fine but i did not run the car as there was so much disconnected i.e. carbs,exhaust manifold etc.
I also have an air gun and compressor so the bottom pulley removal is easy enough.
In relation to the speedo,only on later 240s is the electronic speedo used and on early ones like my 242 there is a cable down to the back of the gearbox.I had an absolute b***h of a time finding one for my 89 245 as i had changed the diff and the speedo didnt work,after some research i remembered oh ya that cable next to the diff and checked the old one and saw the little wheel in the diff.
I have now found after much searching a diff from a newer 240(91)
I plan on putting a 4sp + od box in the 242,is this the best choice,i can get any box from a friend so whichever is the best option ill use,
In case you are all wondering,my obsession with making it as fast as possible is not because im a boy racer but in fact because i plan on using the car for hillclimbs and track days and general competition use as i can not even find an insurer who will even give me a policy
Cheapest i found was named driver with my dad for 5400 euro!! crazy or what.

[vjck_uk]

Hi ben.
If you want it for hillclimbs then I would think that the lowest ratio would be best for you which I think is the auto axle.
Check your Haynes book and it will give you the ratio's.
If you can't find them give me a shout and I will find them for you.
Are the hillclimbs on tarmac or dirt,if dirt then I would weld up the planetary gears in the diff to lock it permenantly which will give you a lot more drive but not so good steering on tarmac.
A limited slip diff would be best all around but would be megabucks,the locked diff option would be ok on tarmac at speeds over 50(ish).
I would think that the overdrive option is not a lot of good for competition as the ratio change is slow compared to a gear lever and could result in loss of drive for too long which would mean some ground lost each shift.
Regards.
Vaughan

[davebslater(uk)]

ben ,

stick with the 8 valve 350 hp turbo can be had if you purchase a good enough stand alone EMS system , although your gearbox will need replacing , im working on a getrag conversion at the moment .

try to find some marine engine parts as they were 2.5 litre and forged crank and rods .

the heads off a high compression engine ie 10.3:1 will definitely contact pistons , swapped a few heads on that matter !

if you want some info on engine upgrades contact me .

[Ben O Brien]

Hi
The hillclimbs are on tarmac and i would also be thinking of track days so tarmac options are best.
If the diff was locked and i tried to turn at low speeds would it just make bits of the tyres or would it just screech and turn badly.
i looked into limited slip diffs and it was going to be very expensive.
I think ill stick with the M47 5 spd so,I just wanted something that would be able to stand up to all the power coming out of the engine and have heard bad reports on the M47 and its strength so was just looking at other options.
Ill have a look at the Haynes manual,that must thave been where i saw the ratios before,if im not mistaken the auto diff has a ratio of 3.44:1 but not sure.

[brodgar]

Hello,

Any response or result with transferring rear axle from 760 onto 240 series??

Thank you.

( I am looking to create a very low revving engine)

Thx Brodgar

[Clifford Pope]

You can easily test any engine safely to see if it is interference or not. With the belt off and the plugs out, just try very slowly turning the crank by hand grasping the lower pulley. I don't think you can damage anything if you inch it round - when (if) a piston touches a valve you will feel it, and the spring will provide some cushioning anyway.

There is surely bound to be always at least one valve open at any cam position, but to be sure you could turn it a bit and repeat the test.