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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Brake System UpgradeViews : 86616 Replies : 321Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 9th, 2010, 07:01 | #51 |
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Looking good. What pedal ratio did you go for in the end. The pedal looks like it may be a bit heavy? Dont suppose that matters though, strength is more important. I was wondering about making an aluminium version. The main body could be machined from solid and a fabricated arm welded on. Is there anything else you would of done different apart from making the arm out of wider stock? i need to make a start on my version so any tips would be useful.
Cheers. Mark |
Apr 9th, 2010, 17:29 | #52 | |||
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Around 6.2:1
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Peace, Derek.
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Apr 30th, 2010, 18:20 | #53 |
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Hi Dereck
Could you tell me your centre distance between the pivot and the balance bar? I'm about to start making my version this weekend. Thanks Mark |
Apr 30th, 2010, 19:47 | #54 |
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Sure, the center to center distance on my custom arm is 2.45"(62.23mm). With the ~15.125"(384.18mm) overall arm length this gives a pedal ratio of around 6.2:1 I just organized all my drawings and notes into a 3 ring binder so let me know if you need any other dimensions.
I was thinking that it would be pretty sweet to mill the entire arm from billet aluminum. There would be quite a bit of material to remove but with large radii throughout it would be great from a fatigue perspective and would still be much lighter than mine. I just rented a real shop(with 440V 3 phase) and will be moving my tools starting this weekend. So I will be going 100% on completing this project pretty soon.
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May 3rd, 2010, 20:39 | #55 |
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disc pcd.
Sounds like you are doing a real job on your brakes.Dont forget that the pcd of the 1800E discs is different to your amazon.Last rally car I built,I used stainless hardline,and found it difficult to flare and bend.Great when its on and done,but I did have to really tighten up the unions to get a good seal.But when done have had no problems since.Best of luck Dave
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May 5th, 2010, 05:13 | #56 | |
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Speaking of the rearend I've decided to convert it to coil-overs for a number of reasons, the biggest of which is to get rid of the horrible block bushings. Easily adjustable ride height and a massive range of spring rates to chose from are the two others main ones. I'm going to use four tubular control arms like what the coupe uses, but made from chrome-moly tubing. For end links I'm looking at the Spohn Del-Spheres for maximum articulation, no bind, and low noise. Plus they're rebuildable. To flare the stainless hardline I'm going to buy this sweet Eastwood flare tool: http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html Even though the SS hardline is going to be tough to work with it will last indefinitely longer than aluminized steel so it's well worth it for peace of mind IMO.
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May 5th, 2010, 08:59 | #57 | |
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John |
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May 5th, 2010, 11:49 | #58 |
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"Even though the SS hardline is going to be tough to work with it will last indefinitely longer than aluminized steel so it's well worth it for peace of mind IMO. "
Kunifer copper/nickel pipes will be fine for 30+ years. How long do you want them to last? Easy to flare and form curves too. Cheap and easy to buy. Can't think of any negatives. SS pipe, put "not" in front of the above descriptions. Add, cracks in the flares, very annoying when your're doing the second end. |
May 5th, 2010, 12:01 | #59 | |
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May 5th, 2010, 18:55 | #60 | ||
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Tags |
4-link, big brakes, coilovers, spherical joints, wilwood brakes |
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