Front chasis cross member

[1966 122s]

I am checking the amazon over ahead of bravely venturing into a left inner wing repair section (as per previous thread http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=101419 ). I am not up to welding yet so this will involve placing myself at the mercy of professionals. I am keen not to throw away money if my amazon is doomed.

Everything looks good apart from front chasis cross member which is frilly at driver's side . Top and bottom edges are solid but vertical section not good in the last lateral 5 inches. The result seems strong and my understanding of structures is that not much rigidity / strength is lost by holing a beam in the centre and retaining the edges!!

Here are some photos. The first three show the problem. The last two shots the good rest of member and the waxoil. I think the problem has been kept static due to liberal waxoil for the last three years.

Is removal and replacement of front cross member the nightmare job that it appears to be ?

Is welding a patch repair a possibility (by a professional not myself) ?

Would the cross member be best left as it is while I pay for someone to do the inner wing (welding is beyond me at the moment) or is this the time to take it on? I'd rather leave it alone and get on with using the car if reasonable !! The aim is to use a daily driver..

Thanks

[Derek UK]

This would be an instant MOT fail in the UK. A few runs down a bumpy track and likely your anti roll bar mounts will tear out. No, it's not an easy job but replacing it is vital for the integrity of the front end. Patching it won't help much. It's also close to where the steering box is attached to the chassis and that can rust out too. Your inner wing rust also very bad.
While the change in the NCT rule to no test requirement for cars older than 1980 may seem good, if it allows unsafe rusty heaps out on the roads, it's not good for you or other road users. I'm sure the insurance companies have reworded their policies to cover this. What is the definition of "roadworthy" now over there? The new rule will no doubt allow many very dodgy motors to stay on the road when realistically they aren't close to being economically repairable. Their value will go up a bit too because of it. I might be wrong, and don't take this personally, this one maybe, IMO, be one of those. Post more pics to prove me wrong. Small rant over.
If the condition of the wing and the crossmember are anything to go by this one will need a lot of work before it can be deemed "safe".
Sorry, my opinion only. I hope you can find a tolerant and cheap welder as it looks as if you're in for a lot of work.

[1966 122s]

Thaks Derek,

Rest of car is good (all rust cut out and new sections welded in winter of 2007. Even use of lead loading rather than filler where needed). The left inner wing and front cross member where the only two bits needing work that were left not done in restoration of winter of 2007. Car then garaged and little mileage done since. Hence I suspect it is worth getting the work done ????

Re: Irish Law change. Until recently anything over thrty years old became "vintage raod tax" in the Republic and did not need an NCT (I believe). (NCT is equivalent of an MOT) Then recently, (I believe) it has changed and that the cheap road tax remains "over thirty years old" but now any car registered on or after 1st jan 1980 will need an NCT once a year for the forseable future. Cheap car insurance is available for "anything over 20 years old" and they really do seem to mean anything.

Hence you might be tempted to buy a 1979 Porsche 928 and maintain it well , inspect it yourself / voluntarily have "pre-NCT checks" at a reputable garage ... but know that you won't have to queue up for an NCT and hand over money when the car only did 300 miles since the last NCT. Hence I suspect 1979 cars will become worth slightly more than 1980 cars as people realise the law change over in Ireland. The law change should progressively make thing safer and is going in that direction rather than away. (Anyone using this information should check for themselves, but I thnk it is correct.)

My aim is definately for safe. Might be time for me to learn how to weld. Should I spendi the time and money on the inner wing and cross member versus buying another in the recesion ?

[222s]

I *think* that the front crossmember is available, but not 100% certain. Given the visible damage, I'd be surprised if the rest of it isn't far behind, and it is worth checking the adjacent chassis rail. There is a huge amount of bracing etc* inside the chassis rail where the steering box (and on the other side, the idler) mount, so just patching over any damage to the rail won't be strong enough.

* I have a NOS front chassis rail somewhere which I can photograph & take measurements from to show the reinforcement if that's any help (won't be able to do so until towards the end of the month though).

With regards to who you choose to do the work, make sure that you find someone who will do it properly, and not just slap a patch over the rust, and then some thick underseal to hide everything.... A decent restorer should be more than happy for you to inspect the work as it progresses.

[Burdekin]

No one is going to be able to properly answer that for you as we can't assess the car. Paying for someone to do the car will add up but the trouble is getting one in A1 condition could cost more and no guarantee even a good one won't require work.

What I'd recommend is contact some of the guys on here that have years of experience with the Amazon and find out all of the bad areas where they rust. Find a good reasonably priced and experienced welder who could do the work and can assess the car for you. Tell him the areas to look at, find out what bits he can make/fix and what parts would be better off buying repair sections. Then cost it up.

Alternatively get in contact with some car clubs in your area with the intention of getting someone to help you restore the car and teach you to weld. Welding isn't hard and isn't anything to be worried about. If you find someone to teach and help you even better and it's enjoyable to do with someone else. And enjoy a few beers in the process.

[Derek UK]

From the net "From Jan 2010 - vehicles registered prior to 1 January 1980 will not be liable to testing." (NCT Ireland)

Pictures in the Thread recently posted about the front end repair on a 220 show a good view of the front cross member and how it ties the 2 chassis rails together. It is a bit of a water trap tucked away under the rad and once water does start to hang around inside that's the beginning of the end. I'll have to check mine for drain holes but if they are there, blocking them off and via a couple of holes in the top, filling it with waxoyl, and leaving it a week or two before taking the plugs out, should prolong its life.

Crossmember is supplied in 2 parts about £85 + vat at VP (http://www.vp-autoparts.com/Downloads/amazonkatalog.pdf) so Brookhouse should be able to supply. Buying the inner wing repair panel/s at the same time would save you on P&P.

Glad to read that the rest of the car is now in good shape.

[pez]

i had the same problem with my estate before all the rest work started mate,as derek said,look at the thread i started on it,its under the title"trailred my amazon estate today",its either on the first or second page of this 120 section.
the crossmember on mine was really rotten at the ends,but only underneath around the brackets where the anti roll bar mounts are.
as said,have a word with brookhouse,get a new one bought,then its just a matter of finding someone to do the work as uve said you cant weld.
if thats the only rotten part of your 120 then thats a good thing!!
mines had months and months of welding work done to it!!
if it didnt have the family sentimental value with it,it would have probably have been broken for spares then scrapped!!
good luck with it mate.

[classicswede]

You can get a repair panel for that but I prefer to build my own ones with thicker steel and remove the rust trap edge of the original.

[JP 1800]

Originally Posted by 1966 122s

I am checking the amazon over ahead of bravely venturing into a left inner wing repair section (as per previous thread http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=101419 ). I am not up to welding yet so this will involve placing myself at the mercy of professionals. I am keen not to throw away money if my amazon is doomed.

Everything looks good apart from front chasis cross member which is frilly at driver's side . Top and bottom edges are solid but vertical section not good in the last lateral 5 inches. The result seems strong and my understanding of structures is that not much rigidity / strength is lost by holing a beam in the centre and retaining the edges!!

Here are some photos. The first three show the problem. The last two shots the good rest of member and the waxoil. I think the problem has been kept static due to liberal waxoil for the last three years.

Is removal and replacement of front cross member the nightmare job that it appears to be ?

Is welding a patch repair a possibility (by a professional not myself) ?

Would the cross member be best left as it is while I pay for someone to do the inner wing (welding is beyond me at the moment) or is this the time to take it on? I'd rather leave it alone and get on with using the car if reasonable !! The aim is to use a daily driver..

Thanks

Where in Ireland are you?, if you are close to Dublin I can help you out with a welder who does good work.

JP

[1966 122s]

Thanks JP,

I'm down in Waterford. Might consider getting it up to Dublin. (Just missed two inner wings and a load of other Amazon bits on donedeal in Ireland. Anyone else seeing the advert... the whole lot has already gone !!)

Thanks