1800: Bosch Part Number for JFURX4 Distributor

[capt jack]

Absolutely agree with B20F. Leave the throttle stop screw where it is!

As described, the idle is adjusted by means of the cross headed screw underneath the air intake. It is a b@gg@r to get to, plus it has a locking collar too!

It makes it a bit easier if you take the plastic hose from the air filter off, remove the screw and locking collar competely, clean it all up and then put it back.

I'm pretty certain that the JFURX4 distributor you have there is the correct one. That part number was definitely on the distributor on my old ES. If you're stripping it down make sure that the little counterbalance weights move freely, and that the return springs are in good order. Source new ones if you can, as they are tiny, do rust and can break - as I found out the hard way!

The engine is of course an old-fashioned OHV engine, and the tappets are accessed for adjustment simply by taking the rocker box top off. You'll need a new gasket though - the old one will almost certainly fall apart as you lif the rocker cover.

Finally, thanks for the invitation - bit far north for me really, and Mrs Jack gets homesick past Scotch Corner! If I ever get my passport renewed I'll let you know. Could I bring my mother-in-law too? .........And the kids?.....and leave 'em there!!!!!

I think it's true to say that the B20E is difficult to get idling smoothly, but I certainly found with mine that methodical cleaning, checking, renewing electrical connections and careful setting up using a dwell meter for the points all helped to get the 'wobble' to an acceptable level.

One final final thought, check out your brake servo hose connections. There is a one-way filter in the line (or should be), and any leaks around that will have a detrimental effect.

Cheers

Jack

[Hugr1]

Thank you for your prompt & informative responses to my last post, much appreciated - one final question for time being if I may and that is to ask which quality,grade and even brand of engine oil others have found to work well with B20E engines

I believe the original recommendation would have been for SAE 20 W-40 or SAE 20 W-50 with service grades SD, SE or CC [MS] and I understand these would have been mineral oils as opposed to newer synthetic ones

Look forward to advice on this matter

Thanks again ;

Kind Regards

Hugh

[B20F]

Best is to use a special classics oil 20W/50 would be my advice. But I can assure you that other drivers will have different opinions regarding viscosity. But why a classic oil? (ie Millers, Duckham) Because modern oils don't contain ZDDP anymore, which is a zink additive. It's important for our engines to have an oil in it which contains the right amount of ZDDP to prevent early wear and tear from the camshaft lobes.
ZDDP contaminates the catalyc converter, so that's why it's banned from modern oils.

[Alf ista]

I use Castrol 20W50 Classic mineral oil in my car. With the following product thrown in to replace the missing Zincdialkyldithiophosphate...lol. Copy and paste is a wonderful thing!

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.a...20%28113.4g%29