SEIZED CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT 1.8 GDi

[PSABIN8951]

Having finally sorted my cylinder head coking issues I was on to the home straight (or so I thought) at the weekend with just a timing belt change & oil and filter change to do.
However having got covers & mountings etc off to do the timing belt I hit a big problem which has got me stumped....
The Crankshaft pulley bolt will not budge. I got my mechanic friend round who locked up the pulley wheel and first tried his impact wrench on it and then put a 5ft bar on a 1/2 drive socket and ended up twisting & finally snapping the extension bar.
This bolt is supposed to be torqued to 133lbft but the impact wrench should undo up to 250lbft! So its way overtightened.
Any bright ideas on shifting it please.
My only other course of action is to put back the old belt which isnt in the best of shape so I dont fancy that.
Meantime i'm dousing the bolt area daily with wd40 to see if that will penetrate and help

[charlotte001]

Don't bother with WD40 get a product call "Shock & Unlock" from Halfords or any good motorparts store it maybe called something slightly different in the smaller parts store.

Failing that "Extreme Caution should be used with the following" Get your socket onto your crank pulley bolt place a 24inch break bar on lay the bar onto the chassis rail making sure its not going to smash into the radiator then spin the starter "ONCE" that will undo the bolt

[960kg]

Originally Posted by charlotte001

Don't bother with WD40 get a product call "Shock & Unlock" from Halfords or any good motorparts store it maybe called something slightly different in the smaller parts store.

Failing that "Extreme Caution should be used with the following" Get your socket onto your crank pulley bolt place a 24inch break bar on lay the bar onto the chassis rail making sure its not going to smash into the radiator then spin the starter "ONCE" that will undo the bolt

......i second this method as i had to do the same with a 740 i had to remove the crank nut.......

......just to add , make sure you know which way the crankshaft bolt turns when the engine is running so that you can put the break bar on the correct side of the engine for it to undo as you turn the starter motor otherwise a dangerous situation could ensue with the bar turning around with the crank bolt and smashing into something instead of undoing the bolt......also make sure the spark plug caps are OFF and not on the plugs!!!!...

[sebaveh]

Maybe it is left hand bolt?

[Kishada]

It's a regular threaded bolt and if you use the crack bar method, lay it under the car and out underneath the front bumper ie pointing forwards in the direction of normal travel.
When i did mine a few months ago it just breezed off with an impact gun.
I did a Rover K-Series engine a couple of weeks ago which was a total nightmare, tried the crackbar method, no joy and took about 1hr with an impact gun, WD40 etc until i tried my other impact gun which i thought was the rubbish one and it came straight off...
I was telling a friend at work the other day about these:
Impact Bar
which we had in my workshop in Australia, amazing bit of kit!
A 4lb lump hammer gives a reasonable amount of grunt with it, but you'd still have to work quite hard with a 4lb-er.
I don't see why something like a 6-8lb head on a long shaft (think fence post kind of hammer!) and a 2 man set-up with one holding the tool and the other on the hammer couldn't shock even the most stubborn bolt free.