Amazon: - Freebie Amazon project - Page 10

Tail · Apr 4th, 2012, 10:31

I am afraid i took the easy option and just welded small patches over the top of mine as they were mostly all a lot bigger than the factory intended then i just ground out underneath the rusty stuff until it was back to the weld.

Gordon Hunter · Apr 4th, 2012, 11:06

I should really be doing the same. It would be a lot quicker and probably just as efective. Especially as the car was supposed to be finished last month! But part of me enjoys the bull**** factor. I guess it's the ex-army thing. Either that or I have OCD!..

Tail · Apr 4th, 2012, 13:11

If i had a garage i would probably be the same but as its all done on a driveway i have to be a bit selective about what i can do depending on what the weather is doing

Gordon Hunter · Apr 4th, 2012, 21:54

Well, I probably spent too long on these but at least the boot floor will be well and truly watertight...

003.jpg

I had a look at the panel gaps on the bootlid tonight. They are shocking...

007.jpg

008.jpg

I've had a go with the porta-power and have managed to get the LHS a bit better...

011.jpg

The problem is that the RHS rear wing seems to sit too low (I think this is either a replacement wing badly fitted or is a result of the impact in the accident). I have slackened off the RHS boot lid hinge mounting bolts so that the hinge can drop to its lowest point. Even doing this, the panel gap is about 15mm.
I guess I'll see it differently after having a rest over the Easter hols, but at the moment I'm trying not to be depressed about this!

Tail · Apr 4th, 2012, 22:25

I have something similar with my bonnet, the right hand side closest to the windscreen sits up above the scuttle by about 5 or 6mm but the nearside is flush, the hinges are as low as they can go but its still up there. Its a replacement bonnet as it has the center bonnet trim which the later ones didn't have i believe, it looks straight and lines up centrally just won't go down at the back. I don't really want to get into bending the bonnet but there isn't much meat on the hinge plates to elongate the holes so i'm still thinking about it as well.

Gordon Hunter · Apr 5th, 2012, 11:42

It's the same story with my bonnet, but if you push down firmly on mine along the panel gap next the bulkhead when the bonnet is in the closed position, then the bonnet sits down correctly and the gaps look better. I believe this is caused by worn bonnet hinges.

Unfortunately my boot lid's poor fit is not due to worn hinges, so quite a lot of further investigation will be needed.
I may end up taking the back panel out and re-aligning the whole lot. Or it might just be easier to cut and shut until it looks right.

Burdekin · Apr 5th, 2012, 12:03

Gordon, hard to say from the pics but looks like it's creased on the sides near each hinge, is this correct? If so heat at the damage area and jacking out and down maybe what is required but hard to tell from the pics.

Gordon Hunter · Apr 5th, 2012, 12:26

Hi Mitch,

I'm going to investigate this whole area when I get back from Glasgow next week.
Because its had more than one smack up the back end, it's not easy to tell what's happened.
I'll try to get some more pics up before I go.

Gordon

Gordon Hunter · Apr 5th, 2012, 20:17

Here are some more photos of the boot lid panel gaps.
I have my own thoughts about what may have happened, but rather than influence anyone elses thoughts, I'd like to hear what people have to say. I can always post more specific pics if requested...

001.jpg

002.jpg

004.jpg

003.jpg

Gordon Hunter · Apr 5th, 2012, 21:54

Ok, I think I have found the first step forward. Or at least the first thing to try.
At some point, someone has put a shim in between the back panel and the RHS rear wing. This may be pushing the panel over. It's hard to tell which way, it could be either. But at least if I seperate these two panels, I'll be able to manipulate the back panel further to the right and rectify the gap so that the boot may be allowed to sit lower on the top LHS. Hopefully you'll see what I mean in the photos...

You can just about make out the shimming in between the two panels here and also see where the boot lid is coliding with the rear panel and stopping it from sitting lower...

005.jpg

On the inside of the boot you can see where the lid is fowling on the back panel...

002.jpg

It still doesn't answer why the boot is sitting on the lowest possible hinge setting. Maybe the whole back end has been badly twisted in a shunt, but there are no signs of very bad accident repair.

Here is the hinge sat on the lowest possible height...

001.jpg

Using a pry bar between the hinge and the bulkhead does seem to pull the lid down to a reasonable panel gap, but with the rear panel thing going on, it's putting the lid under tension quite a bit...

Apr 4th, 2012, 21:54	#94
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Well, I probably spent too long on these but at least the boot floor will be well and truly watertight... 003.jpg I had a look at the panel gaps on the bootlid tonight. They are shocking... 007.jpg 008.jpg I've had a go with the porta-power and have managed to get the LHS a bit better... 011.jpg The problem is that the RHS rear wing seems to sit too low (I think this is either a replacement wing badly fitted or is a result of the impact in the accident). I have slackened off the RHS boot lid hinge mounting bolts so that the hinge can drop to its lowest point. Even doing this, the panel gap is about 15mm. I guess I'll see it differently after having a rest over the Easter hols, but at the moment I'm trying not to be depressed about this! Last edited by Gordon Hunter; Apr 4th, 2012 at 21:58.

Apr 4th, 2012, 10:31	#91
Tail Master Member Last Online: Nov 29th, 2020 00:42 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Newton Abbot	I am afraid i took the easy option and just welded small patches over the top of mine as they were mostly all a lot bigger than the factory intended then i just ground out underneath the rusty stuff until it was back to the weld.

Apr 4th, 2012, 11:06	#92
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	I should really be doing the same. It would be a lot quicker and probably just as efective. Especially as the car was supposed to be finished last month! But part of me enjoys the bull**** factor. I guess it's the ex-army thing. Either that or I have OCD!..

Apr 4th, 2012, 13:11	#93
Tail Master Member Last Online: Nov 29th, 2020 00:42 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Newton Abbot	If i had a garage i would probably be the same but as its all done on a driveway i have to be a bit selective about what i can do depending on what the weather is doing

Apr 4th, 2012, 22:25	#95
Tail Master Member Last Online: Nov 29th, 2020 00:42 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Newton Abbot	I have something similar with my bonnet, the right hand side closest to the windscreen sits up above the scuttle by about 5 or 6mm but the nearside is flush, the hinges are as low as they can go but its still up there. Its a replacement bonnet as it has the center bonnet trim which the later ones didn't have i believe, it looks straight and lines up centrally just won't go down at the back. I don't really want to get into bending the bonnet but there isn't much meat on the hinge plates to elongate the holes so i'm still thinking about it as well.

Apr 5th, 2012, 11:42	#96
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	It's the same story with my bonnet, but if you push down firmly on mine along the panel gap next the bulkhead when the bonnet is in the closed position, then the bonnet sits down correctly and the gaps look better. I believe this is caused by worn bonnet hinges. Unfortunately my boot lid's poor fit is not due to worn hinges, so quite a lot of further investigation will be needed. I may end up taking the back panel out and re-aligning the whole lot. Or it might just be easier to cut and shut until it looks right.

Apr 5th, 2012, 12:03	#97
Burdekin Chief Bodger Last Online: May 26th, 2024 18:14 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Aberdeen	Gordon, hard to say from the pics but looks like it's creased on the sides near each hinge, is this correct? If so heat at the damage area and jacking out and down maybe what is required but hard to tell from the pics.

Apr 5th, 2012, 12:26	#98
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Hi Mitch, I'm going to investigate this whole area when I get back from Glasgow next week. Because its had more than one smack up the back end, it's not easy to tell what's happened. I'll try to get some more pics up before I go. Gordon

Apr 5th, 2012, 20:17	#99
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Here are some more photos of the boot lid panel gaps. I have my own thoughts about what may have happened, but rather than influence anyone elses thoughts, I'd like to hear what people have to say. I can always post more specific pics if requested... 001.jpg 002.jpg 004.jpg 003.jpg

Apr 5th, 2012, 21:54	#100
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Ok, I think I have found the first step forward. Or at least the first thing to try. At some point, someone has put a shim in between the back panel and the RHS rear wing. This may be pushing the panel over. It's hard to tell which way, it could be either. But at least if I seperate these two panels, I'll be able to manipulate the back panel further to the right and rectify the gap so that the boot may be allowed to sit lower on the top LHS. Hopefully you'll see what I mean in the photos... You can just about make out the shimming in between the two panels here and also see where the boot lid is coliding with the rear panel and stopping it from sitting lower... 005.jpg On the inside of the boot you can see where the lid is fowling on the back panel... 002.jpg It still doesn't answer why the boot is sitting on the lowest possible hinge setting. Maybe the whole back end has been badly twisted in a shunt, but there are no signs of very bad accident repair. Here is the hinge sat on the lowest possible height... 001.jpg Using a pry bar between the hinge and the bulkhead does seem to pull the lid down to a reasonable panel gap, but with the rear panel thing going on, it's putting the lid under tension quite a bit...

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