What did you do to your x40 today???

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by baldmosher

In preparation for upcoming big service (due at 284K I think?), scouted for prices for timing belt & water pump & fuel/air filters from FRF, total just over £200 with the discount, but as it's £90 for the water pump, which is the only part I don't need to be genuine, I'm guessing I could definitely get a water pump cheaper elsewhere. ECP only have Circoli (£38) and KWP (£45) pumps listed. Anyone recommend them (or an alternative?)

why don't you forego the water pump altogether. In all my readings on this forum I've yet to hear about one going.

[Spetsnaz GSh]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

why don't you forego the water pump altogether. In all my readings on this forum I've yet to hear about one going.

I agree in some sense because the only time you hear water pumps going is when people go "I'm doing my belt so must do the water pump too" and opt for an aftermarket one.....which fails because they do.

Then you can put your original used OEM one again lol.

In other words, Genuine or don't bother really.

[V40Vinnie]

Originally Posted by Spetsnaz GSh

I agree in some sense because the only time you hear water pumps going is when people go "I'm doing my belt so must do the water pump too" and opt for an aftermarket one.....which fails because they do.

Then you can put your original used OEM one again lol.

In other words, Genuine or don't bother really.

I thought part of it was in the bearings aswell because its Timing belt driven it would make sense to change with the tensioners would it not?

[martin93]

Originally Posted by V40Vinnie

I thought part of it was in the bearings aswell because its Timing belt driven it would make sense to change with the tensioners would it not?

But the bearings in the Volvo water pump are much more robust than the little ones in the tensioners. And generally it's the seals that go first on a conventional water pump (which gives a warning with loss of coolant), which then causes the bearings to fail. Although that cambelt idler near the top is an amazing bit of kit! It's just a heavy cast lump. Whereas the idler on a vauxhall is just made out of plastic and cheese.

[ITSv40]

Originally Posted by V40Vinnie

I thought part of it was in the bearings aswell because its Timing belt driven it would make sense to change with the tensioners would it not?

The short answer is No.

Volvo pumps last with very few problems. I've owned Volvo's for 43 years with most being high milers and not had any pump problems. My last two cars: 360 2.0lt 270,000mls and V40 2.0lt 370,000mls still on original pumps when scrapped.

By all means replace the pump if you want to, but only ever replace with a genuine Volvo pump. I do always change the idler, tensioner and auxiliary belt and tensioner when changing the timing belt.

[pierremcalpine]

On a different topic, I changed out a 1m piece from each of the solid fuel lines which run under the car from front to rear over the weekend. I refused to listen to the local mechanic who suggesting simply replacing the metal bit with rubber to keep the job simple as I did not feel comfortable with running rubber lines under the vehicle where they could be nicked. Instead I chose to get fancy and use some metal brake line and double flare connections to connect to existing lines. Well, I paid for that...one of the double flares didn't take and I neglected to IMMEDIATELY look under the vehicle at first start-up. About 1L of gas all over my in-laws garage and a brutal smell of gas throughout the house. This of course happens an hour before the family is supposed to get home with temp of -10C outside (so can't vent house very well), birthday sleep-over for 12 year old, etc. You can guess where that went. Had no trouble finding the leak upon next start-up and figured it all out just fine...every once in a while the thought of a new car does become very appealing. The good news is that the brake lines I replaced held just fine!

[phil_r]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

why don't you forego the water pump altogether. In all my readings on this forum I've yet to hear about one going.

Sadly mine went on my 52 plate car with around with 130k miles on the clock, unlike the petrol x40's the diesels I believe have a Renault water pump. Fortunately I got away with it and drove back from the isle of Skye to North Yorkshire stopping every 30mins to top up with water.

I believe the failed pump was original as it had the Renault symbol on the side of the pump. But that said my previous car I never changed the pump and took that car from 100k up to 205k and always assumed it was the original pump.

Suppose for piece of mind you change it,

[Cornishv40]

Originally Posted by phil_r

Sadly mine went on my 52 plate car with around with 130k miles on the clock, unlike the petrol x40's the diesels I believe have a Renault water pump. Fortunately I got away with it and drove back from the isle of Skye to North Yorkshire stopping every 30mins to top up with water.

I believe the failed pump was original as it had the Renault symbol on the side of the pump. But that said my previous car I never changed the pump and took that car from 100k up to 205k and always assumed it was the original pump.

Suppose for piece of mind you change it,

Yep, changed the water pump on my derv at 226k.

[Antz]

Started removing the engine from my T4 last night.

[canis]

Well, it turned out the rear brake pipes weren't to blame, despite last year's advisory. Though rusted to buggery, they're still holding pressure. It took me ages to find, but eventually I noticed a puddle on the wet floor that just didn't look quite right, nearside front.

I discovered the pipe from the engine bay through the wing was leaking, indeed it was so corroded it broke off in my hand. So I fashioned a new piece, attached some connectors, put it in place, bled the brakes, etc. Good.

Next day, same again! No clutch whatsoever, brakes exceedingly dodgy but still biting right at the floor. So I'm still losing fluid somewhere. But where?

Yesterday was dry, so some hard brake pumping revealed the location again. Same place, nearside front. Flexible hose was leaking too, I thought it was just run-off from the pipe directly above.

Anyway, replaced the hose, gravity bled, pumped the clutch just enough to make it work. I'll bleed that tomorrow, going in for my dinner. This morning, jumped in the car. Clutch fine with firm pedal, which I hadn't expected since I hadn't bled it. Brake pedal absolutely solid as a rock, so for the time being, we're rolling again.