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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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What did you do to your x40 today???Views : 1109989 Replies : 12937Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 7th, 2017, 03:20 | #11851 | |
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2003 V40 1.9T B4204T4, 197,000miles (sold but alive!), 2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000miles, 2010 V70 3.2, 125,000miles, 2002 V70XC 2.4, 175,000miles Click here for my x40 and V70 P3 repair guides |
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Mar 7th, 2017, 17:59 | #11852 | |
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I agree in some sense because the only time you hear water pumps going is when people go "I'm doing my belt so must do the water pump too" and opt for an aftermarket one.....which fails because they do. Then you can put your original used OEM one again lol. In other words, Genuine or don't bother really.
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2003 Volvo S40 T4 Sport Anthracite Arcadias - OEM Strut Brace - Full 3" Exhaust System & 200 Cell Cat - Ashok's Custom Remap (1.35bar) - Earl's Performance Turbo Oil Feed - Ph1 Air Deflection Trims - Business Pack - Winter Pack - HID Xenon Headlamps |
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Mar 7th, 2017, 18:16 | #11853 | |
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Mar 7th, 2017, 19:12 | #11854 |
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But the bearings in the Volvo water pump are much more robust than the little ones in the tensioners. And generally it's the seals that go first on a conventional water pump (which gives a warning with loss of coolant), which then causes the bearings to fail. Although that cambelt idler near the top is an amazing bit of kit! It's just a heavy cast lump. Whereas the idler on a vauxhall is just made out of plastic and cheese.
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Current: 2003 VW Passat 1.9TDI, 1979 Saab 99 turbo, 1968 MGB GT, Last edited by martin93; Mar 7th, 2017 at 19:15. |
Mar 7th, 2017, 19:44 | #11855 | |
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Volvo pumps last with very few problems. I've owned Volvo's for 43 years with most being high milers and not had any pump problems. My last two cars: 360 2.0lt 270,000mls and V40 2.0lt 370,000mls still on original pumps when scrapped. By all means replace the pump if you want to, but only ever replace with a genuine Volvo pump. I do always change the idler, tensioner and auxiliary belt and tensioner when changing the timing belt.
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2001 V40 2.0lt Sport Lux - Daily Driver. 178k miles. 2003 C70 2.4 GT Convertible - Garage Queen. 67k miles. http://www.neptuno6benagil.com |
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Mar 7th, 2017, 20:17 | #11856 |
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On a different topic, I changed out a 1m piece from each of the solid fuel lines which run under the car from front to rear over the weekend. I refused to listen to the local mechanic who suggesting simply replacing the metal bit with rubber to keep the job simple as I did not feel comfortable with running rubber lines under the vehicle where they could be nicked. Instead I chose to get fancy and use some metal brake line and double flare connections to connect to existing lines. Well, I paid for that...one of the double flares didn't take and I neglected to IMMEDIATELY look under the vehicle at first start-up. About 1L of gas all over my in-laws garage and a brutal smell of gas throughout the house. This of course happens an hour before the family is supposed to get home with temp of -10C outside (so can't vent house very well), birthday sleep-over for 12 year old, etc. You can guess where that went. Had no trouble finding the leak upon next start-up and figured it all out just fine...every once in a while the thought of a new car does become very appealing. The good news is that the brake lines I replaced held just fine!
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2003 V40 1.9T B4204T4, 197,000miles (sold but alive!), 2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000miles, 2010 V70 3.2, 125,000miles, 2002 V70XC 2.4, 175,000miles Click here for my x40 and V70 P3 repair guides |
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Mar 7th, 2017, 20:57 | #11857 | |
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I believe the failed pump was original as it had the Renault symbol on the side of the pump. But that said my previous car I never changed the pump and took that car from 100k up to 205k and always assumed it was the original pump. Suppose for piece of mind you change it,
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2002 V40 1.9D SE, 218k miles 2002 V40 1.9D S 200k miles, for spare parts and storing things in! |
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Mar 7th, 2017, 21:04 | #11858 | |
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2003 V40 1.9 D SPORT 272K 2001 V40 T4 SPORT 134K ipse se nihil scire id unum sciat |
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Mar 8th, 2017, 10:08 | #11859 |
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Started removing the engine from my T4 last night.
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Mar 8th, 2017, 10:23 | #11860 |
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Well, it turned out the rear brake pipes weren't to blame, despite last year's advisory. Though rusted to buggery, they're still holding pressure. It took me ages to find, but eventually I noticed a puddle on the wet floor that just didn't look quite right, nearside front.
I discovered the pipe from the engine bay through the wing was leaking, indeed it was so corroded it broke off in my hand. So I fashioned a new piece, attached some connectors, put it in place, bled the brakes, etc. Good. Next day, same again! No clutch whatsoever, brakes exceedingly dodgy but still biting right at the floor. So I'm still losing fluid somewhere. But where? Yesterday was dry, so some hard brake pumping revealed the location again. Same place, nearside front. Flexible hose was leaking too, I thought it was just run-off from the pipe directly above. Anyway, replaced the hose, gravity bled, pumped the clutch just enough to make it work. I'll bleed that tomorrow, going in for my dinner. This morning, jumped in the car. Clutch fine with firm pedal, which I hadn't expected since I hadn't bled it. Brake pedal absolutely solid as a rock, so for the time being, we're rolling again. |
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