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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2045199 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 14th, 2020, 13:17 | #1451 | |
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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Jul 14th, 2020, 14:24 | #1452 | |
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a. Try a 10mm Allen key - if it works do nothing more, if not: b. Try the middle sized pry bar (the one in the photo) - if it works do nothing more, if not: c. Try the small sized pry bar - if it works do nothing more, if not: d. Cut the end off the 18" pry bar and try it again - if it works do nothing more, if not: e. Apply some heat to the 18" pry bar and bend it to make it more like the commercially manufactured one - if it works do nothing more, if not: f. Try adding a bit of 3mm bar to aid location as you suggest - if it works do nothing more, if not: g. Buy the proper tool :-) Alan |
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Jul 14th, 2020, 16:26 | #1453 | |
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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Jul 15th, 2020, 00:11 | #1454 |
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Forgot to post this earlier, finally got round to weighing the 15" and 16" wheels, steel and alloy respectively.
The 15" is 6J and the 16" alloy is 6.5J, the 15" steel has a couple of balance weights on (<50g) and the steel weighs 9.25kg and the alloy 9.0kg. Given that the area of the wheel and cicumference are both related to Pi and that is constant, an approximation of 16/15 can be assumed for the comparative weight increase of a 16" steel wheel or about +7% so arguably a 16" steel wheel would be ~9.8kg and the alloy remains at 9.0kg. Not forgetting the alloy is already 1/2" wider to start with, i'd say the alloys are definitely the lighter wheel! Granted we're only talking about 3kg ish over the 4 wheels assuming a size for size change or 1kg if going from 15" steelies to 16" alloys but it's there. Both wheels are for FWD cars, same PCD and offset bot originally fitted to different cars. That said, the steel bears a remarkable simlarity to the steel wheels fitted to the donor of the alloy.
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Jul 15th, 2020, 06:18 | #1455 | |
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Much as I thought - 250 grams, or half a pound - is negligible in this context. The aluminium alloy wheels should be significantly lighter, but they aren't - for the reasons we discussed above. :-) Alan Last edited by Othen; Jul 15th, 2020 at 07:49. Reason: Grammar. |
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Jul 15th, 2020, 08:25 | #1456 | |
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If you need to borrow the tool, I've got one you can borrow for the cost of postage.
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loki_the_glt - Skipper of the Exxon Valdez, driver of Sweden's finest sporting saloon - and pining for another Slant-4. |
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Jul 15th, 2020, 09:20 | #1457 |
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The old standard way was to remove the starter motor and wedge something in the starter ring teeth.
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Jul 15th, 2020, 09:38 | #1458 | |
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Alan PS. What would be handy is a photo of the B230 tool so I can get a rough idea. Last edited by Othen; Jul 15th, 2020 at 09:46. Reason: Grammar. |
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Jul 15th, 2020, 09:42 | #1459 | |
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See above note to Loki - I think that would be the best way - and I could add it to my collection of 'special' (i.e. home made) Volvo B21 tools. :-) Last edited by Othen; Jul 15th, 2020 at 10:26. Reason: Spelling error. |
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Jul 15th, 2020, 10:12 | #1460 | |
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May I ask what you used to grind down the shims that were slightly too big? I have 3 spares from when I fitted the cam to the new head (4.15, 4.05 and 4.00) - I'm thinking that one or two of the shims are already less than those, so at some time in the future I might need some slimmer shims as the valve seats wear. I'm thinking a paste board with some emery paper glued flat to it might do the job? Alan |
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