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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2041563 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 3rd, 2020, 18:29 | #1821 | |
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They are wearing parts though so probably wouldn't harm to change it. Assuming that is the fault and you change it and that the 2xx is the same design as the 7xx, if you get vibration from the new one, note the speed it starts to happen and return home. Crawl under the car (without jacking it up) and loosen the four bolts that hold the prop bearing carrier (i hope you bought a complete assembly and not just the bearing?) to the floorpan by half a turn. Jump back in and accelerate gently to the speed the vibration happened then go back home as smoothly and gently as possible, avoiding harsh turns, braking etc. Crawl under again and tighten each bolt a little at a time until they're all tight again. Road test and confirm the vibration has gone. If not, repeat from the first "Crawl under". Don't jack the car up to do this as you alter the cars shape and hence the centreline - also the engine and box will shift on their mounts causing more misalignment.
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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Oct 3rd, 2020, 18:37 | #1822 | |
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Many thanks for the adjustment tips- I think it is the same bearing and mount for 200s and 700s. Alan |
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Oct 5th, 2020, 11:43 | #1823 | |
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I was pleasantly surprised to see how sound and solid everything is underneath. Since I fixed those two oil leaks (you may remember the cam cover and the fuel pump drive) there is no oil underneath the car, it is all pretty clean and tidy. Starting at the front: I cracked all the 13mm bolts on the front flange of the prop very easily, indeed I'd say there is no way they have been on the car for 40 years - they came undone quite easily. I marked the position of the flange with paint for later. I couldn't discern any play in the front UV, which is good news. I couldn't discern any rotational play in the centre bearing, but it seemed to me that the rubber doughnut that supports it had more play than I expected (although I don't have the new one to compare it with yet). I could move it perhaps 5-10mm from side to side and up and down with a pry bar, and it seemed that the top part of the rubber was not continuous - so maybe it has failed there? Again, I don't have the new one to compare it with yet. Do you have any idea how tight that rubber doughnut should be? To an extent it is immaterial in that I'm going to replace it and the bearing anyway. The back part of the prop shaft looked in similarly good condition - I could not discern any play in the two UVs and the flange bolts should come out easily if I need to remove them. A question on that if I may. Bob (Dublin Bob) thought I might get away with removing just the front section of the prop in order to change the support bearing, but was not absolutely sure, do you know whether that might be the case? I suppose it would save just a little time if I left the back on the car. I had a general poke around at the rear suspension while I was there and couldn't find any play in the bushes, which is nice. Also the shock absorbers are shiny yellow new - I'd say not more than a couple of years old, the coils look pretty new as well. Alan |
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Oct 5th, 2020, 13:09 | #1824 | |
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You may get away with undoing the front flange, the four centre bearing assembly bolts and pulling the front half of the prop off separately. Be advised though, it only refits in one position and that isn't always easy to see! I'd advise marking the relative positions with something like Tipp-Ex in the fully fitted position and at stages as you slide the front half off. Once it's off, put the front piece of the prop in the vice, clean all round the shaft so the bearing can slide off easily and check for any circlips that may be fitted to retain the bearing. Remove them and lightly oil the shaft then drift the old bearing off. Degrease the shaft, use some emery tape to polish it up around where the bearing actually sits to remove any burrs, check the rest of the shaft and then again lightly oil the shaft so the new bearing goes on easily. If you have a piece of tube just large enough to fit over the prop but not so large as it exceeds the diameter of the inner race on the new bearing, you can use that to drift the new bearing on. Alternatively use a piece of brass or aluminium flat bar or rod to drift the centre race along the shaft, alternating which side you drift so it slides up squarely. Refit any circlips etc then "Haynes it". Take it for a test drive, adjusting the position of the centre bearing as previously described if necessary.
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Oct 5th, 2020, 13:22 | #1825 | |
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I think you may be right about that rubber doughnut, I have not taken it off and I don't have the new one to compare it with yet, but if that turns out to be the only issue I'll be happy. I'll have a go at sliding the front prop forward, carefully marking the splines first of course. If it comes off that way the rest looks fairly straightforward. I'll have a look around the garage for something like a short piece of scaffold tube to drift the new bearing back on with. I'm hoping we get a fairly dry day sometime this week, the RB is under the car port, but that is far from dry during this monsoon season. Time for Bob's second walk - coat and boots on :-) Alan |
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Oct 5th, 2020, 14:22 | #1826 | |
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I suppose if you hard some tarps the right size you could enclose your carp port and let it dry out? Poor Sasha is still waiting for saturdays walk and we won't talk about sunday!
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ Last edited by Laird Scooby; Oct 5th, 2020 at 14:23. Reason: Mintypigs (think about it - clue - anagram) |
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Oct 5th, 2020, 14:37 | #1827 | |
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The problem with the car port is that there is a cross fall on the double width drive beneath it, so the rain falls on the exposed 3 metres width and then runs sideways to the drain on the inside of the car port. The good thing is the water doesn't pool because the cross fall is sufficient. It does dry out quickly, particularly if there is a breeze, so I'll just wait for a not-too-wet day. Bob and I have just got back, and it didn't rain all that much :-) Alan PS. You can see the car port issue here: ... if it was urgent I'd clear out one side of the garage and do it there, but it isn't so the RB can stay up on the ramps until it stops raining (or I might have to build an ark for myself Bob and Millicent). Last edited by Othen; Oct 5th, 2020 at 16:12. Reason: Spelling error. |
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Oct 5th, 2020, 15:27 | #1828 |
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The only thing that is being missed in all this correspondence is a picture of Bob!
How about making him known to all? Regards. |
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Oct 5th, 2020, 15:48 | #1829 |
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Oct 5th, 2020, 15:54 | #1830 |
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Brilliant! he looks very content.
Thanks Bob. |
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