Engine 850: B5234T/2.3/20v/T5: Starting issue

[stuartvolvo]

I went out to check my codes again after i was playing around with the antenna. I got 2 codes this time.
IMM-221/234 no response from key transponder.
IMM-212/233 no contact with antenna.
I know that the second code would probably pop up as i unpluged it.
What i dont understand is how did the car start when i unpluged it. Do you have any ideas as to what could be wrong with the imobaliser.
Also what exactly is the key transponder. i thought that that was the antenna. i might be wrong though.

[Chris_Rogers]

The immobilizer is located under the dash next to the steering column. It's a cigarette packet size box with a 10 way connector (not all ways used).

If you have another key try that.
If you have Vol-FCR look at live data for the immobilizer with ignition turned on before you try and start the car. It will tell you if the key (transponder) has been recognised and whether a start has been authorised.
The anntena coil resistence should be 5 ohms +or- 10% but how accurate is your meter? Did you take the test lead resistance into account?
If you are getting readings in this range I doubt of the antenna is faulty.
Trace the wiring (Orange/pink) back to the immobilizer ECU and clean the connections that end too.

[stuartvolvo]

Thanks Chris. By any chance do you know what voltages go from the imobiliser to the ecu along the 2 wires yellow & brown and violet & white if i am not mistaken. I was thinking of buypassing the imobaliser if i could, if i knew of the signals that the imobiliser was sending the ecu.

Regards
Stuart

[Chris_Rogers]

Sorry I don't, I would expect that there would be data on the connection and not straight voltages. I don't think you will be able to bypass it that way.

[stuartvolvo]

Thanks Chris, no worries. you have been helpfull. My next question then, is as shadetek has said to me, when i disconnect the antenna, the car should not start at all, but it does. there is something seriously wrong with the imobiliser, if it allowing the car to start. i am then also intrested, as this could also be causing my starting issue, as it is the imobiliser that is supposed to cut the ignition, to prevent the car from starting in the first place.

Therefor my question in does anybody near motherwell glasgow have this imobiliser unit which i could borrow, just to change them over, to see what im provements are made before i have to go and buy a new one.
I will take my existing one out and check it for any obvious sighns when i get home from work tonight.

Regards
Stuart

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by stuartvolvo

Thanks Chris, no worries. you have been helpfull. My next question then, is as shadetek has said to me, when i disconnect the antenna, the car should not start at all, but it does. there is something seriously wrong with the imobiliser, if it allowing the car to start. i am then also intrested, as this could also be causing my starting issue, as it is the imobiliser that is supposed to cut the ignition, to prevent the car from starting in the first place.

Therefor my question in does anybody near motherwell glasgow have this imobiliser unit which i could borrow, just to change them over, to see what im provements are made before i have to go and buy a new one.
I will take my existing one out and check it for any obvious sighns when i get home from work tonight.

Regards
Stuart

there are several types of alarm/immobisers in use depending on the spec chosen, although saying that for the purposes of your interest it may not matter...
unfortunately i am no where near motherwell although i do have a receiver..

which is residing in bb54's garage...pm him if you need it ....
cheers
jod

[Mark_in_Conwy]

Another ECU comment to add to the picture;

Firstly, sorry everyone, as Stuart pointed out it seems my earlier posting of terminal list for the ECU was for a 2.0 car not the T5. I am expecting to get the correct one shortly and if anyone wants a copy please let me know.

The company that refurbised my ECU was Avilec Ltd. on the Isle of Wight, who were excellent. Tel: 01983 281811. Service was great: ECU in jiffy bag, send to Avilec, 5 days later unit returns in jiffy-bag. (I was able to do without the car for a week, but if you do find a spare ECU to use in the meantime, so much the better). Not cheap though; total for the refurbishment including postage was about £200. Particularly since it made no real difference in my case.

Speaking to Avilec today, the chap commented that in his opinion only faults in the crankshaft sensor or power supply to the ECU would result in "no spark" on cranking.

Good luck with the "immobiliser" line of investigation, too. I'm going to play with my secret gearbox mounting earth connection point...

Cheers,
Mark

[Chris_Rogers]

Originally Posted by stuartvolvo

Thanks Chris, no worries. you have been helpfull. My next question then, is as shadetek has said to me, when i disconnect the antenna, the car should not start at all, but it does. there is something seriously wrong with the imobiliser, if it allowing the car to start. i am then also intrested, as this could also be causing my starting issue, as it is the imobiliser that is supposed to cut the ignition, to prevent the car from starting in the first place.

Therefor my question in does anybody near motherwell glasgow have this imobiliser unit which i could borrow, just to change them over, to see what im provements are made before i have to go and buy a new one.
I will take my existing one out and check it for any obvious sighns when i get home from work tonight.

Regards
Stuart

Changing the immobilizer won't help you as it has to be matched to the transponder in the key.

[stuartvolvo]

thanks Chris, I now remember that you are correct. The imobiliser has to match with the key.

Here are a couple of points that i would like you to help answer if possible.

1. When the engine blew on the car the car sat for 2 - 3 months before being picked up and the battery went flat. Also when the work was being carried out the battery was still flat, until the new engine was put in and it was time to give it a test run. It took several hours to get it to go even with jump leads.

2. With the car battery being flat for so long could the imobiliser have lost its memory.

3. From the fault code that i am getting, it looks as if the imobiliser does not recognise the key.

4. What is the best route for me to go sown now. There is definatley something wrong with the imobiliser. Should i just buy a new one.

5. Is it okay to unplug the imobiliser to check it over and replug it again or will that just upset it?

Regards
Stuart

[PNuT]

early in the thread you changed your igntion switch, are you still using the origional key?