Armoured Cable Between Ignition lock and Coil - Page 2

Gordon Hunter · Jul 21st, 2007, 10:40

Sounds about right Mike.
I suppose a shorter main HT might make a very negligable if noticeable at all difference to the overall supply to the dizzy, but what would it really matter anyway for any advantage gained?

BTW apologies I didn't make Kimbolton. I meant to contact you.

Cheers,

Gordon

austingipsy · Jul 21st, 2007, 16:39

I didn't want to cut anything if I didn't have to. The ignition switch is a villanous item though so I just wired in a starter switch under the dash. You only have to turn the key to the first position to power the fuse box and thus the coil and there's no danger of corkscrew keys. Probably baffle most car thieves I imagine but also most AA guys too.

mike gilbert · Jul 21st, 2007, 20:05

"BTW apologies I didn't make Kimbolton. I meant to contact you"

You were missed Gordon - you and a bloody great Umbrella both.

A Sherratt · Jul 21st, 2007, 21:03

Many thanks guys.

Ausingipsy - am very interested to hear about your starter button option if you could email me a wiring diagram and advise of what type of button/relay you have used I would be grateful.

In relation to originality, although its not my strong point, I was going to put the coil in the original bracket as you have Mike.

My key was beginning to resemble a corkscrew and I have managed to purchase two new keys (£23 delivered) from Gem Security tel 0117 978 8676.
I was very impressed with the speed of delivery and they fitted first time.

Adrian

Pigeon · Jul 21st, 2007, 21:08

Length of HT leads is pretty irrelevant for the most part...

The longer the lead the higher its self-inductance; a higher self-inductance leads to a longer rise time for the spark. But the self-inductance of the lead will be negligible compared to the inductance of the coil. So this effect is of no importance.

There is also the possibility of loss of spark energy by coupling to other wiring or metalwork, but this can be easily avoided by routing the lead as far away from other metallic objects as possible. Layouts of ignition wiring on production engines suggest that it is rarely a significant problem anyway.

Do not use silicone leads, they suck. They are prone to degradation leading to mysterious running problems which follow no sensible pattern but disappear when the leads are replaced. Much better to use the proper copper-cored stuff.

austingipsy · Jul 21st, 2007, 23:01

Adrian, here's a link to one on ebay . It's plastic but looks like bakalite so it's quite neat. I took a feed off the cigarette lighter because it was easier to get at. Run that into one terminal on the switch then run another wire from the other terminal down to the starter solenoid.
That's it, stick the switch wherever you fancy, good idea to hide it, no chance of your car getting nicked then.
Turn your ignition key to the first position, that powers everything then hit the starter switch and bingo !

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PUSH-BUTTON-ST...QQcmdZViewItem

Jul 21st, 2007, 21:03	#14
A Sherratt Will I ever finish!!! Last Online: Oct 22nd, 2010 16:57 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Staffordshire	Thanks Many thanks guys. Ausingipsy - am very interested to hear about your starter button option if you could email me a wiring diagram and advise of what type of button/relay you have used I would be grateful. In relation to originality, although its not my strong point, I was going to put the coil in the original bracket as you have Mike. My key was beginning to resemble a corkscrew and I have managed to purchase two new keys (£23 delivered) from Gem Security tel 0117 978 8676. I was very impressed with the speed of delivery and they fitted first time. Adrian

Jul 21st, 2007, 21:08	#15
Pigeon Volvo-loving biker Last Online: Feb 3rd, 2019 05:24 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: All alone in the crazy city	Length of HT leads is pretty irrelevant for the most part... The longer the lead the higher its self-inductance; a higher self-inductance leads to a longer rise time for the spark. But the self-inductance of the lead will be negligible compared to the inductance of the coil. So this effect is of no importance. There is also the possibility of loss of spark energy by coupling to other wiring or metalwork, but this can be easily avoided by routing the lead as far away from other metallic objects as possible. Layouts of ignition wiring on production engines suggest that it is rarely a significant problem anyway. Do not use silicone leads, they suck. They are prone to degradation leading to mysterious running problems which follow no sensible pattern but disappear when the leads are replaced. Much better to use the proper copper-cored stuff. __________________ Pigeon's Nest Be kind to pigeons

Jul 21st, 2007, 10:40	#11
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Sounds about right Mike. I suppose a shorter main HT might make a very negligable if noticeable at all difference to the overall supply to the dizzy, but what would it really matter anyway for any advantage gained? BTW apologies I didn't make Kimbolton. I meant to contact you. Cheers, Gordon

Jul 21st, 2007, 16:39	#12
austingipsy Senior Member Last Online: Mar 13th, 2019 22:59 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Invergowrie	I didn't want to cut anything if I didn't have to. The ignition switch is a villanous item though so I just wired in a starter switch under the dash. You only have to turn the key to the first position to power the fuse box and thus the coil and there's no danger of corkscrew keys. Probably baffle most car thieves I imagine but also most AA guys too.

Jul 21st, 2007, 20:05	#13
mike gilbert Master Member Last Online: May 25th, 2024 13:08 Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Peterborough View Photos By: mike gilbert	"BTW apologies I didn't make Kimbolton. I meant to contact you" You were missed Gordon - you and a bloody great Umbrella both.

Jul 21st, 2007, 23:01	#16
austingipsy Senior Member Last Online: Mar 13th, 2019 22:59 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Invergowrie	Adrian, here's a link to one on ebay . It's plastic but looks like bakalite so it's quite neat. I took a feed off the cigarette lighter because it was easier to get at. Run that into one terminal on the switch then run another wire from the other terminal down to the starter solenoid. That's it, stick the switch wherever you fancy, good idea to hide it, no chance of your car getting nicked then. Turn your ignition key to the first position, that powers everything then hit the starter switch and bingo ! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PUSH-BUTTON-ST...QQcmdZViewItem

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