ok need a clue? - Page 2

spike4073 · Oct 12th, 2010, 20:46

actualy i did notice the other day while running the engine that the wire to the idle solenoid was off ... the engine was still running .. its re-connected now but if it was running with the wire off does this mean the solenoid is f***ed?

Clan · Oct 12th, 2010, 22:14

No , it might be ok . But if the wire was off and still running then perhaps the idle speed screw and CO screw have been altered too much to compensate . connecting the wire should make quite a difference to the idle if the valve is working ...

spike4073 · Oct 13th, 2010, 10:48

ok ive checked the solenoid, no click! when the wire is attatched nothing happens

have checked the wire and there is current coming through it,

the solenoid does appear very clean with no dirt or blockage .

the little tab for the wire to attatch too does appear to have been botched back in place with fibre glass at some point

so ..... now that it has been found to be sh***ed ... now what??

cant seem to find replacement ones anywhere

any clue where i should look or how to repair?

cheers

TonyS9 · Oct 13th, 2010, 11:40

You could try taking off the fibre glass (probably epoxy glue) and seeing if you can make any contact to get the click with a bit of bare wire, then attempt soldering. Otherwise try www.Volvo300mania.com, a carb specialist, or scrap yard. Its not a common failure, someones obviously been careless, but it should be possible to get a replacement, from a Volvo or other car , its usually Weber 32dir, also used on some Renault 5s, 18 1.6, Alfasud 1.3 1.5, but my Haynes carb manual states some used a Solex 32 SEIA.

They have probably adjusted the throttle stop up high to achieve tickover, there is an idle circuit but if the idle valve is closed no adjustment of the idle speed screw will work.

spike4073 · Oct 13th, 2010, 11:46

thanks, i already thought of that and removed the fibre glass and made direct connection with wire but its still dead

spike4073 · Oct 19th, 2010, 19:13

ok .... ive replaced the solenoid and have it ticking over much better now...just 1 problem left... ive driven it up and down the road a bit and it all seems ok ..
however if i stop with the car pointing up hill and attempt to set off again it seems to lack enough power to get going untill i put my foot allmost to the floor? cant think what may be causing this?

maybe the clutch? or maybe a little surface rust on the drums that the drive belts go round? (it has been stood for 12 months)

any ideas anybody??

GTMaster · Oct 19th, 2010, 20:08

What's the ignition timing like? Does it have a distributor with a membrane chamber on the side of it?

Clan · Oct 19th, 2010, 20:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by spike4073

ok .... ive replaced the solenoid and have it ticking over much better now...just 1 problem left... ive driven it up and down the road a bit and it all seems ok ..
however if i stop with the car pointing up hill and attempt to set off again it seems to lack enough power to get going untill i put my foot allmost to the floor? cant think what may be causing this?

maybe the clutch? or maybe a little surface rust on the drums that the drive belts go round? (it has been stood for 12 months)

any ideas anybody??

Like it is trying to start off in 3rd gear in a manual ? Don't do this too often or the clutch will burn out . If this is the case the secondary transmission unit diaphragm springs may be broken , they constantly press the cones together so that when the car comes to rest the secondary pulleys are fully together ( primary unit pulleys far apart) ie in low gear ready for pull away .
Do you feel the engine itself is lacking power or is it straining but getting no where ?

spike4073 · Oct 20th, 2010, 10:54

yeah it is like trying to set off in 3rd in a manual ..... she is fine once your on the move its just setting off when it seems weak ....

Clan · Oct 20th, 2010, 19:29

I would therefore suspect broken diaphragn springs in either of the tramsmission pulley units ...

Oct 12th, 2010, 22:14	#12
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Today 00:12 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	No , it might be ok . But if the wire was off and still running then perhaps the idle speed screw and CO screw have been altered too much to compensate . connecting the wire should make quite a difference to the idle if the valve is working ... __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

Oct 20th, 2010, 19:29	#20
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Today 00:12 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	I would therefore suspect broken diaphragn springs in either of the tramsmission pulley units ... __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

Oct 12th, 2010, 20:46	#11
spike4073 Member Last Online: Nov 26th, 2011 11:12 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: sheffield	actualy i did notice the other day while running the engine that the wire to the idle solenoid was off ... the engine was still running .. its re-connected now but if it was running with the wire off does this mean the solenoid is f***ed?

Oct 13th, 2010, 10:48	#13
spike4073 Member Last Online: Nov 26th, 2011 11:12 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: sheffield	ok ive checked the solenoid, no click! when the wire is attatched nothing happens have checked the wire and there is current coming through it, the solenoid does appear very clean with no dirt or blockage . the little tab for the wire to attatch too does appear to have been botched back in place with fibre glass at some point so ..... now that it has been found to be sh***ed ... now what?? cant seem to find replacement ones anywhere any clue where i should look or how to repair? cheers

Oct 13th, 2010, 11:40	#14
TonyS9 Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 21:50 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Holywood	You could try taking off the fibre glass (probably epoxy glue) and seeing if you can make any contact to get the click with a bit of bare wire, then attempt soldering. Otherwise try www.Volvo300mania.com, a carb specialist, or scrap yard. Its not a common failure, someones obviously been careless, but it should be possible to get a replacement, from a Volvo or other car , its usually Weber 32dir, also used on some Renault 5s, 18 1.6, Alfasud 1.3 1.5, but my Haynes carb manual states some used a Solex 32 SEIA. They have probably adjusted the throttle stop up high to achieve tickover, there is an idle circuit but if the idle valve is closed no adjustment of the idle speed screw will work.

Oct 13th, 2010, 11:46	#15
spike4073 Member Last Online: Nov 26th, 2011 11:12 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: sheffield	thanks, i already thought of that and removed the fibre glass and made direct connection with wire but its still dead

Oct 19th, 2010, 19:13	#16
spike4073 Member Last Online: Nov 26th, 2011 11:12 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: sheffield	ok .... ive replaced the solenoid and have it ticking over much better now...just 1 problem left... ive driven it up and down the road a bit and it all seems ok .. however if i stop with the car pointing up hill and attempt to set off again it seems to lack enough power to get going untill i put my foot allmost to the floor? cant think what may be causing this? maybe the clutch? or maybe a little surface rust on the drums that the drive belts go round? (it has been stood for 12 months) any ideas anybody??

Oct 19th, 2010, 20:08	#17
GTMaster Senior Member Last Online: Nov 7th, 2016 22:32 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Melbourne	What's the ignition timing like? Does it have a distributor with a membrane chamber on the side of it?

Oct 20th, 2010, 10:54	#19
spike4073 Member Last Online: Nov 26th, 2011 11:12 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: sheffield	yeah it is like trying to set off in 3rd in a manual ..... she is fine once your on the move its just setting off when it seems weak ....

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