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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Generally what’s the most likely cause of tear siting lowViews : 2659 Replies : 22Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 15th, 2024, 17:54 | #11 | |
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https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...23&postcount=1 You could have these swapped over in an hour… you are just down the road from Corby del Sol. Addendum: I’ve just noticed the OP was nearly 4 years ago - silly me!
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... another lovely day in paradise. Last edited by Othen; Apr 15th, 2024 at 17:57. |
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Apr 15th, 2024, 19:13 | #12 | |
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Those should sort you out |
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Apr 15th, 2024, 20:26 | #13 | |
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Apr 15th, 2024, 20:30 | #14 |
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If you always carry weight then fixed rate heavy duty springs will sort you out https://www.classicswede.org/shop/hd...=6060e3abd7a69
if you are sometimes empty and sometimes loaded then the progressive springs will be just the ticket https://www.classicswede.org/shop/pr...=6060e3abd7a69 If you want new standard springs the nearest you can get are a little stiffer and lower about 20mm so you either have to swap the fronts to match or add the spacers |
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Apr 15th, 2024, 21:28 | #15 |
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Thanks so much. Much as I'd like to revert to Nivomat's, E1000 plus import tax is prohibitively expensive, so I'll take your advice and go with stiffer springs to compensate for the standard Bilsteins. It may even surprise me and feel better than the 31 year old Nivomats.
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Apr 15th, 2024, 21:47 | #16 |
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They will certainly cope with the weight better
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Apr 16th, 2024, 10:29 | #17 |
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Some time back I advertised a pair of self levelling shock absorbers that came off my friends 240:~ very good condition body wise- gaiters need replacing as do the rubber bush eyes, these also have the removable bottom end for renewing the fluid (done) no response to this on the forum so still with me.
----------------------------------- " ---------------------------------- Anyway: on my car it has the normal rear suspension (standard) but I had never been happy with the rear stance- even with new springs-it was too low. My solution was/is to purchase a billet of aluminium to match the diameter of the flat plate that the spring sits on (I used round but can be done in a square section) The above is drilled through to take a heavy duty H.T. bolt that passes through the same, the original inner spring plate has the spline fitting knocked out to take the longer bolt. From memory the new spacer is approximately one and a half inches deep.. could be two with the O.D. being the equivalent of the suspension flat plate that the spring sits on. (you can experiment with the spacer if you wish) You need to make sure that the shock absorbers can open to the new height adjustment without hitting the top stop area- they can vary. The above has been fine for me for many years of service without any noticeable changes in the actions of the suspension: a spacer may be a solution here? and not expensive to do. (The car now sits better & looks correct) Trust the above gives some further ideas or options. Bob. |
Apr 18th, 2024, 13:45 | #18 | |
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Out of interest - off topic - have you noticed any galvanic corrosion in the aluminium plates in contact with the rest of the suspension? After seeing the damage done to 240 Ally bumper bars where they contact the bolts and mounts, this is clearly a significant problem. John |
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Apr 18th, 2024, 14:19 | #19 |
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This ground has been covered before - but - it's relevant here:
Has anyone got rear cargo springs, and if so, are they that bad when the back is empty? It gets said the rear becomes bouncy and skittish unladen. I went to standard springs/shocks/anti-sway-bar (240 estate) a few years ago after a Nivomat leaked so I swapped over to standard - and if there's no load in back, it's not a problem, the rear height is ok, and ride is good. But I do also occasionally have to move heavy stuff around (say 100kg of compost bags), or there's people in the back plus a bit of luggage - and the rear end goes too low. I have a tow-bar, but really wouldn't fancy doing any towing with it. Or does anyone use pumpable air-shocks - that would be a way to adjust according to use. John |
Apr 18th, 2024, 15:49 | #20 | |
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No nothing at all, the suspension parts have a heavy coverage of waxoly so that probably helps (the through bolt is also stainless but again well coated in the wax) you could always use a heavy duty gasket made from the likes of M.D.P.E. sheet-but although I have this material it is not used. The car had just passed the MOT the other day so whilst on the ramp I took a closer look to remind myself- I used a round bar but just below the base of the springs is a further flat heavy duty plate (stainless again) just to make sure that the springs sat correctly etc, been on the car for at least two years now. This idea came from the use of Polyurethane deep spacers that are available for raising the suspension when towing (not sure if they are still available) the price for these was/is daft hence the change to this option that is far cheaper with flexibility in what height you choose. Hope it helps. Regards Bob. PS the corrosion on the 240 alloy bumpers can be greatly reduced or eliminated if a gasket is incorporated between the two metals- again a heavy coat of waxoyl is used. Last edited by Bob Meadows; Apr 18th, 2024 at 15:55. |
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