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300/66 Series General Forum for the Volvo 340, 360 and 66 cars |
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Newly inherited 340Views : 3656 Replies : 21Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 20th, 2018, 11:53 | #11 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Jul 22nd, 2021 14:56
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Location: BELFAST
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360
Hi mate.
I would fly to Glasgow and drive it home but the wife would smack me with a frying pan as i have two already. Keep it. You can get classic insuance for it. Cheers Mark. :tounge_ smile: |
Aug 22nd, 2018, 09:00 | #12 |
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Last Online: Sep 26th, 2019 09:23
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Middlesex
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Best car I have ever owned in over 40 years of driving. As above, get it going, keep it, cheap classic car insurance.
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Aug 22nd, 2018, 10:54 | #13 |
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Last Online: Today 11:40
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Location: L/H side
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Indeed , they never go wrong and never need any parts , quiet and economical with a huge interior compared to modern cars .
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Aug 22nd, 2018, 14:42 | #14 |
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Last Online: Sep 26th, 2019 09:23
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Location: Middlesex
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Volvosaurus passed the MOT again the other day. Tester said that it's in good order.
He made no comment about my order! I've been going to the same MOT place for many years, both the tester and I have aged a bit! So today, thought it deserves a treat, cleaned front seats with Lidl W5 Cleaning Foam, they came up quite nice, drying off now. Took distributor cap off, no trace of condensation there, slight staining of inside of cap, so wiped it out, sprayed with WD40 and wiped out again. I did notice that the carbon brush was fairly worn, but OK, I compared it with the brush in a new cap. Started the engine, to my surprise, the tickover was smoother. I don't notice any difference in the rev counter. Bonus, that slight bearing rattle that many 340's give at tickover, has reduced to almost non existent. I've never taken engine/ transmission apart on a 340, so not familiar with this bearing. Can someone explain about this bearing please? I'm pretty good on mechanics, in fact I used to work for Janspeed in the early 70's. Rebuilt many engines / gearboxes, mainly BMC A series Mini, including the BMC Mini auto box. Last edited by 340man; Aug 22nd, 2018 at 14:44. |
Aug 22nd, 2018, 14:46 | #15 | |
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Quote:
wow the mighty Janspeed , did you make the manifolds ?
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Aug 22nd, 2018, 14:50 | #16 |
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Last Online: Sep 26th, 2019 09:23
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Location: Middlesex
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No, it's not an engine rattle, it goes when clutch is pressed, my 1.7 did the same. I think it's the bearing that supports the prop shaft at the engine end.
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Aug 22nd, 2018, 15:01 | #17 |
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oh right I know , that is the clutch plate rattling on it's splines , it is amplified by the hollow propshaft , if you can get the idle smoother it should go .
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Aug 22nd, 2018, 15:06 | #18 |
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Last Online: Sep 26th, 2019 09:23
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Excellent, thank you, anyway, as mentioned, the rattle is almost non existent now.
I suppose that I'd better check the adjustment of the clutch, been meaning to do that for ages. |
Aug 22nd, 2018, 15:08 | #19 |
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as long as you can lift the clutch pedal a little no need to worry about that , there is no clearance on the fork arm itself .
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Aug 22nd, 2018, 15:16 | #20 |
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Last Online: Sep 26th, 2019 09:23
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Thank's did this on the 1.7 GLE.
When cleaning the seats today of the 1.4 GL, I did lift the clutch pedal, and there is quite a lot of free movement, I will check the Haynes Manual. Probably not interest anyone, but I still have three Minis. 1961 with bored out 1275 engine and improved brakes. 1969 Mk2 998, bored out, with 12G295 head, duplex timing gear, AEA630 cam, I 1/2" SU, Hi-Low's and Spax adjustables. 1969 Riley Elf Automatic, standard, only 26,000 Miles genuine. |
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