Fuel injector seals

[Magnumpi]

Well something strange happened today. . . . . . the sun came out!

So i got on with changing the seals, and taking photo's as i went incase anyone else fancies doing this job.

So remove the 10mm bolt on the injector holder, give it a wiggle and it should come out.

Next grab a 12mm and 14mm spanner and undo these two nuts:




Which should leave you with this, a dirty old injector:





I found the easiest way to separate the injector from the plastic holder was to place the plastic on a flat surface with the injector hanging off (a step as here is ideal) use a rubber mallet and tap it downwards until it drops out:





Which will lead to this, clean up the parts as best as possible, refit your new seals to injector and plastic holder, apply a smidgen of WD40 and fit back together in the reverse of above:






So as you can see i have done the job, however it's made little to no difference, infact if anything it's made it worse. The idle is hunting much worse than before and the rev gauge was reading between 4-600rpm. Left to it's own devices it coughs and splutters then cuts out.

Oddly if you rev it, it actually sounds better than it did before, so is it a case as has been suggested that the fuel mixture now needs adjusting? Thing is it runs so poorly i don't know if it would get to a garage for a tune up!

[yappy]

I've got to do this on my Torslanda soon so thanks for photos and all the advice.

[classicswede]

Your Torslanda will be EFI not mechanical so totaly differnt.


When replacing the mechanical k jet seals the plastic buckets often break taking them out. They are not expensive to replace so worth buying with the seals.

[john h]

Replacing your injector seals (and then setting the mixture) is very worthwhile.

If you still have hesitation after this work, carefully clean all the fuses relating to the fueling system (3 on my car) using wire wool to get the fuses and the terminals shiny. Steve did this on my GLT and although I admit I was sceptical beforehand, it definitely made the car idle more smoothly and improved the throttle response. Strange but true!

Another example; we recently bought a '79 245 on k-jet as a spares car. On the way home it was hesitating quite badly and, after a refueling stop it refused to start. Again, we cleaned up the fuel system fuses and it fired up instantly and the hesitation was much reduced.

John

[leftfootleashed]

Originally Posted by Magnumpi

So as you can see i have done the job, however it's made little to no difference, infact if anything it's made it worse. The idle is hunting much worse than before and the rev gauge was reading between 4-600rpm. Left to it's own devices it coughs and splutters then cuts out.

Oddly if you rev it, it actually sounds better than it did before, so is it a case as has been suggested that the fuel mixture now needs adjusting? Thing is it runs so poorly i don't know if it would get to a garage for a tune up!

I changed my injector seals recently and had the same problem. It's easily fixed by adjusting the idle speed upwards, via the thumbscrew located by the intake manifold (on k-jets anyway). It's quite a fine adjustment so you need quite a few turns before you noticed anything. If you're foolhardy like me you can do it with the engine running to fine tune. You might find this thread useful (you might have found it more useful before you did the seals, but hey): http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=74661

Incidentally, I had trouble finding the right speed - too low and it struggles to start, but too high and once it's warm it idles conspicuously high. It's a problem I still haven't solved but I've got it to an acceptable speed now. The engine still chugs painfully on start and hangs around the 500rpm mark for a few seconds, yet I reckon it still idles a tiny bit higher than it should when hot.